2011 Prius making noise only when slowing down/braking and turning

I think we need a clearer description of the sound. Does its frequency vary in proportion to car speed? Does it seem to be about one click per revolution of the wheels? Is it louder during hard braking, or the same as with light or moderate braking? Do you ever hear it when accelerating in a turn? Any other clues?

What kind of fluid went in the transmission when you had it changed? Has anyone checked the fluid level since then?

Good luck!

 

Mine has been making this sound when slowing down to brake in a turn for over a year now. From what I've gathered here on Prius Chat it seems to be a common problem with the beginning of the 3rd Generation vehicles between 2010 - 2012. Nobody seems to know for sure why this happens so I'm just living with it for now until someone isolates the issue better. It doesn't seem to effect my mileage at this point.

 

This is well documented problem with Gen 3 Prius, majority are early Gen 3. It is the drive shaft that's making the noise. You might have to replace both. Weird ticking sound, please help *video* | PriusChat

 

update?

 

I have the exact same thing. My friend is a mechanic and can't find the issue either.

 

I made an appointment and will take a test drive with a toyota tech. We'll keep ya'll updated

 

I'm still having this issue at 65k miles. Had the passenger side axle replaced a while ago

Fone ?

 

Ok, update. Toyota replaced the bearings. Didn't help. They now replaced the CV axle. That was it! No more noise! The front end and steering is very tight. Feels like a new car.

Something else I noticed. Before I replaced all these goodies and before the noise came I noticed that if I had the breaks on while going over rough railroad tracks or bumps like the potholes that are very rare in Michigan...the ABS would go crazy and I loss all braking power, the pedal would go to the floor. I don't know why I never took it to the dealer for warranty repair earlier. But it seems that is fixed too!

I will continue to see if the problem is truly gone but it seems that was the trick. Started at about 30k miles and now finally got it replaced at 44K. All under warranty!

 

We've had something similar. Well maybe, except: brake pedal doesn't go "to the floor". There IS a different feel to the brakes, and it's unsettling. The service manager, when I brought it in, described it as "default mode". The brakes still work, but take a little more effort, and don't modulate as easily, a little harder to control.

On the dash the traction control light comes on steady in upper left corner, plus yellow triangle, also a couple of brake lights in lower right corner. Plus "CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM" warning.

This is an ongoing issue for us. The service manager is suggesting: next time it happens (if it does), bring it in immediately, and keep the car running, have a mechanic come right out, check with lights on.

He suspects there is nothing truly wrong with a component, say the brake master cyclinder, that it's a "handshake" problem in the wiring.

Here's what we were seeing:

 

can you scan and attach the work order of the repair so we can know what part numbers they replaced? I think the CV axle is part of the drive shaft.

 

Mine didn't come on steady and none of the other lights came on that you see. Mine, ABS (NO! It wasn't ABS, after seeing your photo mine was the car on curvy path light on your top left.) flashed very fast, made some beeps and then went away after I released the brakes and past the rough ground.

I actually don't have the work order...I wonder if he forgot to give it to me or I lost it....I think I lost it already. I will try and look for it otherwise go back there and get another copy.

 

Apologies if this is old news, but:

CV stands for Constant Velocity. Both sides of the transmission there are drive shafts connecting to the wheels. The shafts will come out roughly horizontal, then go through a CV joint, into a down sloping portion, then a second CV joint, and into another roughly horizontal portion, to the wheel. The object of the CV joint is to allow the drive shafts to have kinks.

CV joints have a rubber boot that keeps them clean, and contains the grease that allows it to work. Sometimes those boots will crack/split, and the joint will start flinging grease. If it's not lost much, and the internals of the joint are still sound, sometimes they'll just replace the boot. Considering the amount of disassembly to accomplish this, I think as often as not they'll just replace the whole shaft.

 

What the hell kind of dealer did you go to? At my local dealer, anyone who picks their cars would have to go to the cashier to show ID and sign the paper work, even if no payment's needed.

 

umm....I don't know.... I picked up my car after hours at midnight so I called ahead of them closing and told them to put the keys on the front driver's side tire and they said they can put it under the passenger floor mat.....That's what they did. I never had to show drivers ID bringing my car there or any dealership before....I just go to the service desk....

 

Go to New Cars, Trucks, SUVs & Hybrids | Toyota Official Site and click on 'Owners' at the top. Fill in the appropriate info and you will see the documentation of the work performed. If desired you can later get a full print out from the Dealership.

 

Awesome! But that service is not on there. Maybe it will show up later.....

 

Mine is making the noise again from the passenger side and even though the dealership documented it previously at 40k miles, because I'm at 65k it is not covered and they want $1100. Seems like a common defect with the car and I had nowhere near the amount of issues with my 08. Quality def seems like it went down for the 3rd gen. and as much as I want to get a 4th gen, may be jumping ship to an older Lexus LS with similar miles

Fone ?