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Lubricating brake lever(pedal assembly)

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Cofi, Oct 11, 2015.

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  1. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    hello all

    Recently the brake pedal on my 2002 Prius has been a little harder to push for the first mm of travel it almost "sticks" requiring slightly more effort once it moves past that point it is normal no fading or extra effort required this problem has now progressed to the point where the pedal is kind of crunchy for the first 5mm of travel and occasionally will not return right away causing the brakes to drag a little but again pressure required to stop is exactly the same no fading etc

    I am thinking since I live on 2 miles of dusty washboard dirt road and some grit has worked its way into the bushing .

    I had seen a post in the gen two forums (can't find it now) where the dealer was going to charge the guy 1000$ in labor to lubricate it!!! I can't afford that is there a diy somewhere? Does the whole dash need to come out?
     
    #1 Cofi, Oct 11, 2015
  2. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    If anyone thinks I'm wrong please lemme know
     
    #2 Cofi, Oct 12, 2015
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Get a good light, contort yourself down there, push on the pedal, see where the linkages are. See if any have residual grease, what it looks like. Listen for sounds as you push the pedal. Try flushing out the joints with a little WD40, then push in a little fresh grease. Maybe use something that sprays in liquid, then gels, to really get into the joint.
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Oct 12, 2015
  4. E Risch

    E Risch Junior Member

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    I would try White Lithium grease [​IMG]
     
    #4 E Risch, Oct 12, 2015
  5. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    That's what I was thinking with the lil red straw
     
    #5 Cofi, Oct 13, 2015
  6. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Well it's not the pedal..... I tried lubricating the pedal hinge and that didn't fix the problem then while I'm driving I had to push really hard (again for the first mm of travel) and then the pedal popped and sunk abs and brake lights were on and the pedal was spongy

    The next day lights were off and brakes are normal

    Anyone wanna take a stab at what it is?
     
    #6 Cofi, Oct 17, 2015
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Sounds expensive. :(
     
    #7 Mendel Leisk, Oct 17, 2015
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What codes? Anything else would just be guessing.

    -Chap
     
    #8 ChapmanF, Oct 18, 2015
  9. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    My scan tool can't access them for some reason I'll be taking it to the dealer tomorrow I'll update with what they say

    I have to stab at the brakes with my foot to get past the initial resistance and the brakes operate normally and if I apply constant pressure through that I can make the abs/brake light pop on and the brakes get mushy
    at least its repeatable


    I'm gonna fix it myself once we figure out what it is just got a new hv battery and I hate car payments
     
    #9 Cofi, Oct 21, 2015
  10. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Well the brakes have gotten bad enough that it's going in Monday I'll update from the dealer
     
    #10 Cofi, Nov 4, 2015
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Get Mini VCI, if you wish to be self-sufficient and DIY.
     
    #11 Patrick Wong, Nov 7, 2015
    LEVE likes this.
  12. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Do you have one that you recommend?

    Found this on Amazon




    I'm at the dealer now.....fingers crossed
     
    #12 Cofi, Nov 9, 2015
  13. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    [​IMG]


    Apparently the 12v battery was dead????

    They put a new one in ($360 installed) and sent me on my way.....brakes are perfect for now!
     
    #13 Cofi, Nov 9, 2015
  14. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Aaaaaand the lights back on brakes are slightly better though
     
    #14 Cofi, Nov 9, 2015
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Make sure the Mini VCI that you buy comes with a software CD - or else you'll have to scrounge around on the web trying to find the software.

    This is the one I bought a couple of years ago.


    Unfortunately it sounds like the dealer service dept you went to was ineffective in determining the root cause of the problem. So you can give them another chance, or try the DIY route.
     
    #15 Patrick Wong, Nov 10, 2015
  16. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    #16 Cofi, Nov 14, 2015
  17. Pri-Eye

    Pri-Eye Junior Member

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    You can get a used one on eBay for less than $100. And, it's not hard to replace.
     
    #17 Pri-Eye, Nov 18, 2015
  18. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Really? Is there a link somewhere to doing an r/r?

    I was under the impression that it's a huge job
     
    #18 Cofi, Nov 27, 2015
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    "Hard" is a relative concept. It is easier than replacing the engine and transaxle, for example... Harder than replacing the engine coolant pump.

    You would need to remove the cowl tray that houses the windshield wiper motor for access. The brake actuator assembly is mounted on the firewall.

    You need a special slotted box wrench to remove the various hydraulic brake lines attached to the brake actuator. After the replacement actuator is installed, you would need to bleed the hydraulic brake system using Mini VCI.

    Consult techinfo.toyota.com for factory repair manual info.
     
    #19 Patrick Wong, Nov 27, 2015
    miso03 likes this.
  20. Cofi

    Cofi Junior Member

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    Well today's the day wish me luck everyone I'll post pics when I can
     
    #20 Cofi, Aug 5, 2016
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