Snow Tires for 2014 Prius

There are several ways to have multiple sets with TPMS. I use some devices to reprogram the ID numbers registered in the car. Some tire shops will reprogram the car for $20 per set, unfortunately the local one wouldn't touch my 2014 Suby until their new manual came out, and for liability reasons they wouldn't try to use the 2013 format. Or, acquire some aftermarket TPMS models that are clonable, and have the tire shop program in the same ID numbers as your factory set.

 

Dealership is safest bet.

 

Take a look at my post #3.

That aside, if you just walk up to the parts counter, tell them what you're driving, and that you want utilarian open-ended galvanized lug nuts, they should be able to sort you out. That's a big part of their job.

 

I don't think so. Steel rims are actually pretty light. Well, maybe vs the 15" rim: that one is pretty lightweight. Our regular rims are the 17" porkers; they're something like 24 lbs.

 

Bring along a tread depth gauge if you can find one in time, they're $3~4 bucks:



A caliper with a depth gauge would do the trick too. New depth of the X-Ice3 is 10.5/32". 95% would be 10/32" remaining depth.

95% seems a pretty fiddly number, at any rate, if there's less than 9/32" remaining, I'd get a little less enthusiastic. Another clue to near-new X-Ice, at least with my X-Ice2: there's a fine, lateral groove pattern on the face of the tread. It took some time to wear off. If there's still any hints of that, they're very close to new.

Another thing you can check is the tire's manufacture date. There's typically a 4 digit number on a tire: the first two digits are the week of the year (1 through 52) and the second two digits are the year. For example: 1210 would be the 12th week in 2010. More info:

Tire Tech Information - Determining the Age of a Tire

 

That all sounds good. With the nuts you bought, the conical side goes against the rim, the flat face is outside. When you've got your regular nuts off, have a look: they also have a conical taper at the base. They can work with either the alloy rims, where their captured washer does the holding, or the temp spare, which is basically a regular steel rim. With the latter it's the conical base of the nut that holds the rim.

And yeah: you could use the regular nuts with the steel rims, it's purely esthetic. They just look kinda funny, sticking out. One real benefit: you keep the nice chromed nuts out of the winter conditions.

Here's a pic of what I got: