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Diagram for front wheel hub.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Myron, Sep 6, 2015.

  1. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    When it comes to this topic, I'm a newbee. What I'm after is the parts diagram for the front wheel-hub assembly. A friend with appropriate tools will help me change a hub where bearings are failing.

    Or, maybe someonecan tell me where to look on Toyota's tecchdoc to download the necessary PDF's?

    Done some research and a major thing is to either disconnectthe 12v auxilliary battery or when the callipers atr taken off to wedge in an appropriate block of wood to the brake ECU don't slam the calliper pistons together.

    I'm ordering a hub and an axle nut on Monday. Just wondering if I need to order anything else? Say, in case a nut won't undo and may need an angle grinder.

    I've already read that the axle nut is not designed for a second use.

    I just ask that anyone who can help with advide to take into considertion that I'm new to this.

    I read that the caliper is held on by four bolts, but it's a lotmore involved. I found the write-up of someone's experience changing a front wheel hub and that it was not that easy.
     
  2. hchu1

    hchu1 Active Member

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    If you have a dremel that will help take out the stake in the hub nut. Being careful to not cut into the shaft.

    If your hub is stuck on the shaft some penetrating oil and a hub puller will be useful.

    8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller

    Overall, take your time, don't be in a hurry.
     
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  3. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    There is a dust shield at the rear of the bearing that has to be removed, and re-fitted. It is difficult to remove the shield without damaging it so it would be prudent to order one of these.

    John
     
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  4. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The work involved with removing the hub is not difficult, but!!! The bearing hub being made of steel and fitted into an aluminium housing seizes into the housing. Often a press is required to remove the old bearing hub from the housing.
    Once removed wire brush or file out the aluminium housing so that the hub fits in without having to use brute force.
    On the dust shield is a small cut out designed to clear the hole in the housing for the ABS sensor so this must be positioned correctly.

    John
     
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  5. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    Thanks for that. Does the hub not come with the bearing in it? When I spoke to the local main dealer about getting the baring he parts department guy said that there is just the entire hub available. If that's the case then I don't exactly have a lot of luck so if the bearing is integral with the hub, I'll get that so there should not be a need to pull out and press in any bearing and/or rings.

    Thanks for the advise about the ABS sensor. I'm taking the advise on getting a new dust shield together with a an axle nut. The entire assembly has not been removed since manufacture and I got the car during the beginning of 2006.

    Are there any other gotyas that could effectively ruin my day on Thursday?
     
  6. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The bearing on it's own cannot be changed. It is a one piece unit complete with wheel flange and studs. Once the axle nut has been removed it is much easier to remove the complete hub, and aluminium carrier "after removing the disc and caliper bracket" by undoing the bottom ball joint (3 fasteners) the track rod and then the 2 fasteners that hold it to the shockabsorber .The bearing hub is held in the carrier from the back by 4 fasteners.

    John
     
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  7. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    As Britprius said, the bearing comes with parts attached that you screw the disc/wheel onto. But the part that attaches to the car is what causes the problem. I had a puller with slamweight, then I took it to a guy with a hydraulic press, then I threw a tantrum and eventually I went to the Toyota dealer who had a fitment in exactly the right size to push it out. They are probably still finding bearingballs all over the workshop... :)

    See pic of loose driveshaft, new hub and old hub still in place.

    [​IMG]

    Here we are sanding out the surface that caused us so much grief (where the stainless steel bonds with the aluminium)
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. JoeX

    JoeX Junior Member

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    Northern climate with winter road salts..... Just changed left front wheel bearing on 06, required was a 12 point 30 mm socket to remove spindle nut.
    The old bearing/race (hub-spindle assembly - 1 piece preloaded with non removal bearings) was stuck to the cast aluminum knee that bolts to the strut and lower ball joint. Soaking over night with fancy named release agent/spray were a waste of time. Could not move the bearing/race (spindle) until i knocked out the old bearings and hollow axle shaft and used a cut off wheel to slot the race to relieve pressure. It still exploded when it came apart, be careful. (20 ton jack on the press) Cleaned up knee with wire brush and small grinder to make the new bearing assembly a slip fit. I will use heavy grease on the the slip fit ( or dilectric grease) before installation and a little on the axle splines. Scribed the knee at the strut attaching bolts before unbolting to have a close reference for reassembly. This would have been an easy job with out the galvanic action between the aluminum knee and steel bearing race. After 188,000 miles I decided to replace the backing plate too.
     
    #8 JoeX, Sep 10, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2015
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  9. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    Thanks for that. I don't understand this bit: "cut off wheel to slot the race". What sort of wheel cut off and what's a "race"?

    GT-I8190N ?
     
  10. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    Just one more question. When working on the hubs is it worth inhibiting the brake control (ECB) by removing motor relays 1 and 2? (Within Toyota's tech doc m_032_0029.pdf). It's not part of the procedure described in m_30_0021.pdf?

    I've got the information from
    Toyota Service Information
     
  11. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    The deed is done. A 12 ton press was used, but pressing on the inside of the old hub did the job and both hubs didn't explode so no lose bearings that could be used in a game of marbles. This galvanic action has taken place, but not to extent that the hubs flat refused to budge out of the knuckle. A bit of a tender loving thump under pressure of the press and hubs just fell out of the knuckle. Everything else was a peace of cake and it was too easy to remove and reinstall the speed sensors.

    Now just need the wheel alignments to be set to factory specifications. The main dealer did the best job.

    Figure this out. It took about two hours for each wheel so a total of four hours to do both hubs. the friendly main dealer wanted about £700 to the job, In US dollars that equals to $1079.72.

    For four hours work without using any specialised Toyota service tools. I guess with the proper tools the main Toyota service agent would be able to do the job in about three hours?

    Uh?
     
  12. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Congrats on a job well done. As for dealer pricing remember your in rip off Britain.
    Some while ago I was in the local dealers, and a customer came in asking for a price to fit a tow bar on a Rav4. He was alarmed at the price quoted £1380 + VAT = £1656. More than the price he paid for his caravan. I pointed him in the direction of a fitting company less than 3 miles away Total cost with electrics £360.

    John
     
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  13. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    Yeah. Turned out not to ba a problem. I still will take it to main agent for a full 4 wheel alignment. Both knuckles had to come off the car so the alignment is out of kilter. That's being done on Monday.
     
  14. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The Toyota dealer will not do a 4 wheel alignment because the official Toyota line is that the rear wheels cannot be adjusted. Some non dealer alignment places will do this by adding shims to the rear hubs.
    There is an official Toyota service tool for tracking the rear wheels that basically bends the axle assembly to correct any miss alignment, but I have yet to find a dealer that has such a tool or even admit the existence of one. The dealer will tell you if the rear alignment is out to have a new axle fitted. = more money.

    John
     
  15. Myron

    Myron Junior Member

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    Whatever alignment technique that main dealer used was perfect. Better than KwikFit.

    Strangly, I recently learned that KwitFit will no longer work on hybrid vehicles. This from an area operations manager. This is after I kicked off on Twitter.
     
  16. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I should have qualified my statement by saying the dealer can check the rear alignment but they cannot adjust it. Toyota as the franchiser will not allow the dealer to fit shims for correction.

    John
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Aluminum and steel is never a good mix, even just taking my alloy rims off, lol. Especially when new, I've had to resort to 2x4 behind the tire and a big sledge hammer blow. Once they get a bit of patina I think it's not as bad.
     
  18. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I find cleaning the location hole in the wheel and then giving it a couple of coats of clear lacquer helps reduce the amount of corrosion keeping them free.

    John.
     
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  19. CrniMilorad

    CrniMilorad Junior Member

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    Try to use my easy method to take wheel bearing off the hub
    Solved, rear wheel bearing removal, easy way | PriusChat
     
    #19 CrniMilorad, Jan 20, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2016
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