This is what happens when you lower your Prius with a stiffening plate bar. At First I was bottoming out on the bar but saw nothing more than scrapes. Avoided speed bumps and learned how to drive a lowered car more cautiously,even have a front camera to avoid large bumps. Really wish I would have just removed this bar then and there for a slimmer one. I don't recall hitting anything or hearing a loud noise. Nor did I feel anything weird,break, or jolting like one would feel bottoming out. When I race I check the whole car over so this was not caused during racing.This happen sometime in daily driving. Car was not in any accidents. It's wedged up into the frame!!! Can not be pulled out by hand. Does anyone have suggestions on how and if this is fixable? Was thinking a shop can weld it on or better yet a different kind of bar. Any other braces I can get to help since this is a weak point now? Maybe drill holes and see if I can add my stock one near this? Help, this sucks This is my experience with this product. Yours hopefully varies.
Going to have a exhaust shop look at it tomorrow. Thinking of getting a 2 point under brace. Really hoping I can re-add my stock stiffening plate behind the messed up bar.
Some welding is in order! A welder will need to install 2 metal plates on the inside, where the nuts were, and then weld in new nuts for re-installing original/Mikes stiffening. - Alex
a good welder/ fabricator can fix that. it really won't be too difficult, but will take some time. that is why I haven't lowered mine. it may be possible to reinforce the oem plate on the top side so you don't lose any ground clearance. one thing, that is a pretty stout brace, it doesn't appear to be deformed from whatever hit it.
Wanted to have my stock bar and it welded in. Found out after welding the stock brace on in front of where it was originally the ebay users is aluminum so can't weld that to the frame. Said rewelding where it was ripped from might just fall out while welding since the frame part is so thin, may not take the heat well with the holes. Looking for another factory bar to try adding in addition. Such a bad day. While jacking the car up for this I had the trunk open becasue I had to disconnect both 12V battery leads and the orange plug on the HV battery. Freshly painted trunk his is garage and scratched my spoiler and trunk lid. Lowered the car to close the trunk. When it came time to reconnect the battery, the trunk would'nt open. Duh .Had to crawl over my subs and blindly reconnect the battery. Warped Plastic caught on fire. Still need to clean it up a bit then paint it.
imho, the mike ebay users one who shall not be named is fine if you don't lower the car. if your gonna lower it, reinforce the stock brace, or buy the overpriced billet plate if you don't have access to a mig or tig welder.
Probably a bad idea to get a tanabe under brace for the front then? Where can I get another stock stiffening plate? Getting harder to find. Think it's this 2006 Toyota Prius Parts - Toyota Parts Center - Call (866) 596-1970 for Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories
Try autobeyours.com Steve has a number of totaled Gen II's hanging around, so he should have a good supply of the factory part. If you ask, he may even cut-out the bottom ribs in that area of the chassis to be welded in place of your ripped ones. Bill the Engineer p.s.: My best guess is that a speed bump snagged your car.
The block vs a wedge, seems that it may likely catch on something, what are the chances of the ebay users design having this happen on a stock vehicle? Anyone with a non-lowered Gen2 ever have issues, other than scrapes?
I got the Rude person's box beam brace, stock height, no problems. actually, now I've got taller tires, so ground clearance is even better. I would like to drop the rear about 1/2".
Had a buddy flatten out a side of the bar then ran a bead to join the two and welded the sides. Took it for a spin and feels better. Note the Earth and Moon on the spoiler. I really need to get some Star Wars stickers on there too.lol Painted to avoid rust. If this breaks I'm adding a third one.
That is going to depend on the quality and location of the welds, and how much cornering stress is going to be applied when the floorpan is trying to flex. Flexing cycles can propagate crack growth in those welds. I still think the problem started when a speed bump was taken at-speed and the car bottomed on it while still in motion. Don't do that! Bill the Engineer
