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Morimoto HID troubleshooting - newbie problems

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Pokey, Aug 7, 2015.

  1. Pokey

    Pokey Junior Member

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    Hi everyone! I've been a stocker on this site for months but this is my first new thread. Unfortunately, it's because I'm having problems with my HID install...

    I installed Morimoto XB35 ballasts, TRS relay harness and TRS 4300K H11B bulbs this afternoon, and after two or three hours of fiddling and zip-tying everything I tested the lights, and the driver's side wont stay lit. The driver side just flickers once and stays off, but the passenger's side lights just fine. I'm trying to figure out if: (A) my installation is wrong, or (B) if somethings broken. I'm using the relay and have the power attached to the positive terminal in the lower left covered compartment inside the fuse box. The driver's side is grounded at a bolt on the fender above the drivers side headlight. The drivers side ballast is hooked up to the igniter which is connected to the bulb, and the ballast is also connected to the relay harness. The same goes for the passenger side, but its ground on a bolt beneath the coolant reservoir. The OEM plug that used to connect to the drivers side halogen bulb is also connected to the harness. I think I got everything hooked up right, after hours of reading everyone's super helpful install posts =)

    So to troubleshoot, I swapped the passenger's and driver's side ballasts and the drivers side bulb still flickers but wont light. I put the ballasts back then just swap the igniters, but still no light on the drivers side. By now it's super dark out and I can't see a thing. Could it be a bad bulb or a bad grounding spot on the drivers side? The passenger side seem to work fine so at least that half seems ok. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
     
  2. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    You're supposed to test everything before you install it all nice and zip tie it together. ;)

    Try switching the bulbs.

    Try putting the ground on the driver's side under a different bolt.

    Lastly, you could have a bad relay on the driver's side. Do you have a multimeter so you can measure voltage?
     
  3. Pokey

    Pokey Junior Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions xliderider! After putting the last zip tie I just about kicked myself for not testing everything first - that's truly a good rule of thumb for everything =)

    First thing tomorrow I'll try swapping bulbs. I don't have a multimeter though and I'm not sure I'd know how to use one. I just hope TRS is nice about warranty claims on defective items if it comes down to that.
     
  4. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    If it's a bad relay, you can take out the relay harness and hook up your ballasts directly to the oem wiring harness. Then contact TRS for a replacement relay harness. At least you'll be able to drive around till you get the replacement harness.
     
  5. Pokey

    Pokey Junior Member

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    Ok! I finally got it working! It's turns out both bulbs and the grounding location for both passenger and driver sides are fine... A contact in the cable connecting the bulb to the igniter was loose- there's a plastic seal that had come slightly undone and the wire was too far down in the connector housing to make a good contact.
     
    #5 Pokey, Aug 8, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  6. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Glad everything is good now. :)
     
  7. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    How do you like the 4300K color temperature? I have 5000k now, and I am contemplating getting Morimoto 4300K.
     
  8. Pokey

    Pokey Junior Member

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    • I like the color - it starts blue then goes to a white. It's definitely whiter than stock and has no visible blue to it at all. The beam shape on the road is similar to stock, maybe a bit narrower. Also, it doesn't seem to come up as close to the front bumber as before, but I didn't measure it so it could just be perception. There is a brighter spot right in front of the car where the beams overlap but it's not distracting and not so obvious as to be annoying. No sign of the ground wire at all! I guess TRS did really solve the problem with the H11B bulbs. When projected against a wide wall, there is clearly a 'bowing up' of the cutoff line at the far edges of the beam as described in previous posts, but doesnt seem to go above the belt line of most passenger cars. The 'squirrel finders' are obvious though, when you're close up to a wall. This all has to do with the halogen projectors from what I've read.

    Overall, I'm very happy with the lights - now that they're working!

    My installation rant below...
    One thing that drove me up the wall when installing the relay is that the length of the wire that extends from the drivers side to the passenger side (to the ballast, ground and bulb) is like 6-10" shorter than it should be. I wanted to put both ballasts behind the black plastic pieces on the side of the fender but that would mean putting the relay between the inverter and the ICE and that seems like a hot unwelcoming place for it. So I put the passenger side ballast and igniter right behind the headlight strung with zipties and the drivers side in the plastic fender piece. There simply isn't much room in the engine bay for anything, so I hung the relay from the left front of the fuse box with zipties. Even finding a ground for the drivers side other than the one in the rain gutter above the headlight was hard, and I couldn't find bolts that fit in the threaded holes beneath the fuse box because those are metric? (it is from japan after all). I spent an half an hour staring at bolts at ACE hardware trying to find ones that fit lol. Anywho, it's all done and I hope nothing ever goes wrong so that I'll never have to undo the million zipties I put up haha!

    Thanks for your troubleshooting suggestions xliderider!
     

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  9. Pokey

    Pokey Junior Member

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    I was wondering about the 5000K bulbs, it's hard to judge based on pictures alone sometimes. I wonder what other companies make HID bulbs that fit into the OEM halogen housing and are compatible with the plugs that come with the Morimoto igniters?
     
  10. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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  11. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Your description of the cutoffs, bowing up of the cutoffs, etc matches my experience with my Camry. Except I did the squirrel finder cutout block to eliminate the glare above the cutoffs:

    HID info - Page 3 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

    I also have the bright spot where the beams converge, and noticed the area in front of the vehicle is darker further out as well. But I have projector foglights that fill that area in well.
     
  12. texasboy77904

    texasboy77904 Junior Member

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    Update..
     
    #12 texasboy77904, Feb 26, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
  13. texasboy77904

    texasboy77904 Junior Member

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    Where does this connect too?
     

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  14. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    That connects to your original (oem) headlight connector plug, the one that originally plugged into the halogen bulb. In your picture, there is an adapter (short 6" wire with a connector at each end), you may not need it, depending on the plug configuration of the Morimoto ballast plug. My guess is you will use the adapter.
     
    #14 xliderider, Mar 5, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2016
    texasboy77904 likes this.