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Help diagnosing ODB-II Codes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Techars, Aug 4, 2015.

  1. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    New poster who is seeking the wisdom of the folks on this forum. My friend purchased a 2005 2nd generation Prius in June of 2014. She really likes the car...especially the gas mileage. With that said she recently encountered a problem with it.

    First the history...it's a 2005 generation 2 purchase in June of 2014 with approximately 160K miles. Everything was in great operational condition when purchased. In November of 2014 the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and a friend of hers, who is a Toyota mechanic, diagnosed the problem as a failure in the HV battery. He wanted to replace it at a cost of $2,500 but that was too much for her. A little research and we discovered one can replaced the individual modules. We purchased a module from E-Bay and proceeded to replace the failed module (I have some electronics experience and was able to identify the module with a traditional multimeter). After the module replacement everything was back to normal.

    Fast forward a couple of months and the car wouldn't start. Long story short the 12V battery was almost completely discharged (she thinks she left some lights on). We pulled it, took it to the auto parts store where they tested and charged it. It appeared to be the original but it was holding a charge so we opted to re-install it. Again everything was back to normal.

    Fast forward to two weeks ago. She informed me the vehicle was experiencing the same dashboard lights as she observed in November 2014. However this time the car would not exceed 30 MPH. We suspected another module had fallen outside of specification and the car was operating in a degraded, protection type of mode. So we ordered a couple of additional modules from E-Bay. Over the weekend we pulled the HV battery, located the module, and replaced it. Put it all back together and the dashboard lights remained. No problem we thought...we just need to drive it so it can reset everything. We took it for a drive and it still refused to exceed 30 MPH. However when we stopped at a stop sign the vehicle refused to move when traffic cleared. We ended up having it towed back to her place (just a 1/2 block). Thinking we must have assembled something incorrectly we pulled it all apart and checked everything. Finding nothing incorrectly assembled I started investigating other possibilities.

    First on the list was the 12V battery. Measured it and unloaded it was approximately 12.2V. I thought this a little low so I pulled it and we took it to the auto parts store for testing. The determined it was bad and so we purchased a new one (from them). Knowing a weak 12V battery can cause all kinds of problems I was certain this was going to solve our problem. Installed it and...same conditions. Nothing changed.

    It was at this point we obtained an OBD-II reader and found the following codes:

    P0AA4 - Hybrid Battery Negative Contractor Circuit Stuck Closed
    U0100 - Lost Communication with ECM/PCM "A"

    I was told the U0100 code was typical and nothing to worry about. Doing some research I came across the following thread here on this forum:

    "My 05 prius has the P0AA4 and P0AA1 Codes, what can be the problem"

    I pulled the HV battery again, pulled out the two relays (those which connect to the orange HV feedlines), measure the resistance of the relay solenoids which read approximately 35 ohms and also measure the resistance across the HV terminals which, as expected, measured infinite resistance. I didn't have a 12V power source to try and engage the relays so, as done in the above thread, I shook them. Reinstalled, put it together, and tested the vehicle. Almost the same problem however after a few cycles of powering on the vehicle the gasoline engine, for the first time, started. Progress! We took it for a test drive and all appeared to be working. After a couple more cycles the dashboard lights went off. Ah, problem solved! Given it was late we decided to reassemble the car the following day.

    The next day we started off by first testing the car. Unfortunately the warning lights had come back on. However everything else seemed to work fine. So I took it for a test drive and all appeared to be in order. We decided to go to the auto parts store and have the codes read / cleared. They were the same code. Thinking they were stale code I had them cleared. Took it for another test drive and all appeared to be in order. We decided to let it sit for a little while (it seemed the codes only reappeared after it had been sitting awhile) and we proceeded to perform a detailing of the car. To include pulling the seats, center console, and trim panels to clean it up really nice. During that cleaning, which took a few hours, I powered on the car to see if any warning lights appeared. To my pleasure none did. Great, problem solved. Put it all back together and took it for a 30 mile test drive. No lights, no problems, life is good!

    Fast forward to yesterday and the warning lights popped on again. Car still operates as expected. No discernible operational problems. Save for the warning lights. Took it back to the auto parts store to read the codes:

    B1653 - Seat Position Airbag Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    B1655 - Driver Side Seat Belt Buckle Switch Circuit Malfunction
    B1821 - Open in Front Driver Side - Side Squib Circuit
    B1826 - Open in Front Passenger Side - Side Squib Circuit
    C1259 - HV System Regenerative Malfunction
    C1310 - Malfunction in HV system
    U0100 - Lost Communication with ECM/PCM "A"

    I suspect the B codes were the result of my having powered on the car while the seats were removed during the clearning we performed. I'm not concerned about them. It's the C and U codes which are of interest. Does anyone have any suggestions of what could be the possible cause. As an FYI I was never really happy with the relay shake "repair" so we ended up ordering a used relay off of E-Bay. I also decided to order a replacement Hybrid Battery Control Module. Figured I may as well have it available if I go into the HV battery again.

    If you've read this far I appreciate it. One thing I find frustrating on forums is when people say "Help, my car broke...what's wrong with it?" and no additional information is provided. I hope I've provided enough to give you an idea of what we've done and where we're going. Any help is appreciated. I've also uploaded a couple of pictures of the warning lights we're experiencing. The triangle is the standard warning alert. I believe the car icon, which appears on the MFD, is the indicator as to what the problem may be (it's in the owners manual but I forgot what it was...though I think it had something to do with the HV system...which matches the codes). We're not worried about the maintenance light (she needs to get the oil changed).
     

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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome! way beyond me, but i hope you get some great help here, all the best!(y)
     
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. It would be better if you used Mini VCI to obtain the DTC because the OBD-II generic code reader that you can borrow from an auto parts store may not retrieve all of the codes. C1259 and C1310 indicate that there is a problem with the hybrid drivetrain but is not specific about what the issue is, since those codes are logged by the skid control ECU.

    2. The lost communication DTC U0100 may mean that there is a problem with the wiring harness leading to the engine ECU and hybrid vehicle ECU, relative to the communications bus that links the various ECUs. This could be why you do not see DTC logged by the HV ECU.

    3. It is possible that the high voltage relay on the negative side is still having a problem, and it is good that you are replacing it. Please notice that there are three system main relays, one of which shorts out the current-limiting resistor which is in-circuit upon startup to limit the current inrush to the inverter when the electrolytic capacitors are charging up.
     
  4. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    Thanks for the information Patrick. I am suspecting the ECU or the connections to it. Where is the ECU located? I'd like to check the connections.
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The engine ECU and hybrid vehicle ECU are both located behind the lower glove compartment. When you remove the glove compartment (just as if you were going to replace the cabin air filter) you will see the two ECUs to the right.

    Consult techinfo.toyota.com to obtain factory repair manual and electrical wiring diagram info.
     
  6. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    If you need the repair manual, sense me a PM confirming the model year of your Prius and I'll give you a link to a zip archive of the manual on my web server.

    JeffD
     
  7. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    I second the suggestion to use mini-vci. It's easy to get it to work and gives you ALL the codes. I had some lights come on and my regular obd-2 scanner didn't show a single code ! When I used mini-vci I got to the cause of several issues. One of them was a clogged HV battery fan which gave me a nice big red triangle.
     
  8. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    I believe I've got the software however I need the cable. A search shows I can buy the software / cable together but estimated delivery is near the end of the month / mid-next month. I suspect because it's coming from overseas. Where can I obtain a cable locally which won't take a month and a half to arrive?
     
  9. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    I ordered on ebay from a US based supplier. I think it was 25 bucks.
     
  10. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    I think I found the supplier. Ordered it earlier today for delivery on Friday. This is definitely going to be a much more useful tool than a generic OBD-II reader. Plus she'll have it for the future.
     
  11. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    Yes it works well. I have the latest version. I got it to work on windows 8.1
    Make sure you google how to do it. It won't work on anything newer than windows xp or windows 7... But with a little work you can get it to work on Win 8.1 64 bit even. I did.
    Has many functions to test things, bleed brakes, run fans etc etc etc. And of course read ALL trouble codes.
     
  12. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    I think I'm just going to use XP. The software I downloaded has a video which shows me what to do and I'll just take the path of least resistance (I need to focus on fixing the car...might build it into a VM for the future).
     
    #12 Techars, Aug 5, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  13. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    Wanted to provide an update on this situation. Some more history: On Tuesday my friend ended up having the car stop running on her while she was out running errands. I went over to pick her up and, on the way, picked up an OBD-II reader from the auto parts store. Reading the codes we only had U0100...the other codes listed above were not present (as expected). I used the OBD reader to clear the codes and, for some reason, the car started up and ran fine. We immediately took it home and that's when I ordered the replacement relay, HV battery monitor module, and Mini VCI. I loaned her my car and the Prius sat in the garage...

    The parts arrived on Thursday but we decided to hold off on any repairs until we had a chance to read the codes with the Mini VCI (which was expected to arrive the next day). On Friday my friends Toyota mechanic stopped by to read the codes. To our surprise not a single code was found (FYI...the check engine light was not on nor were any other warning lights...however we thought some codes might be stored). She took the car for a quick ride and all worked well. They checked the codes again and none were present. So they took if for a longer drive. Still no problems and no codes.

    On Saturday she brought the car over to my place and we ran some errands. No problems all day. We then checked for codes and none were found. Today she drove the car and no problems were experienced. The car is driving as expected with no issues. We're puzzled as to why...we didn't do anything Tuesday afternoon but clear the codes with a generic OBD reader. She's pleased as the car is working fine but a little nervous as to the reason why. At this time we cannot perform a diagnosis on a car that is operating as expected. I'll check back in should we encounter a problem or after a few weeks if not (just to let people know).
     
  14. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    You likely wiped whatever was there. Although... I have used a wipe when I didn't see any codes on generic obd2 reader but with mini vci I did.. and they were still there.. after the obd2 reset
     
  15. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    We wouldn't be surprised if the generic OBD-II reader cleared all the codes, even the manufacturer specific ones. However what is puzzling is after clearing the codes the car started up and has run fine ever since. As of the date of this posting the car is running fine and there are no codes (as read with the Mini-VCI). We're puzzled as we didn't replace anything, didn't change anything, didn't do anything except clear the codes. I don't believe clearing the codes resulted in a working car (wouldn't that be great if that's all it took?) however whatever the cause "fixed" itself and we don't know what. It's been almost a week and things are looking positive. If something changes I'll update this thread. Otherwise I'm going to consider this issue resolved.

    To anyone who may stumble across this thread in the future. The only thing we did, after replacing the failing module, was remove the two relays feeding the two orange high voltage wires and shake them as I mentioned in the original post. Save for a couple of code clearings with a generic OBD-II reader we literally did nothing else (we haven't installed the new parts we ordered as there isn't a reason to).
     
  16. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    Give it time, it will be back.
     
  17. Techars

    Techars Junior Member

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    I wouldn't be surprised if it does recur. I don't like things which "fix" themselves. If it does we hope we have the right tools to help diagnose the problem...thanks to those here on this forum.
     
  18. geekwithoutacause

    geekwithoutacause Junior Member

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    they are the hardest to track. I still have the abs/brake warning lights come on once in a while. Replaced the 12v battery since it was weak but again came back and went away.. Have not checked it with mini vci since but will have to soon to get to the bottom of it. But codes might be gone again.