New hybrid batt. still no go, what'd I do wrong?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DKG1011, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    Okay, so tonight I've just finished installing a new Toyota hybrid battery pack (221Vdc) in my 2005 Prius (192K miles). Original codes were P0A80 (replace hybrid battery) and P3021 (battery block 11 weak). ...ordered, recievied, installed that new hybrid battery pack tonight. At the point of "all's safe to test drive this dude" I powered up the vehicle. Much to my surprise, all I get is 1) bout all the lights on the display, 2) NO "ready" light, and 3) something(s) is wrong and my code reader says there are NO codes present. NO Ready, can't test drive it. MFIndicator display says my hybrid battery is at 6 bars (no problem). Now left scratching more than my head about what's wrong.

    Anyone have ideas of what I did wrong, what I didn't get connected right, or what's else for me to check (double check?) concerning this issue?

    Here's picture of the "lights" that show up...
     

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    #1 DKG1011, Jul 16, 2015
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Make sure the orange plug is locked down (pressed down) on the hv battery
     
    #2 JC91006, Jul 16, 2015
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  3. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    Yup, that dern orange plug/connector/disconnector is pushed in, levered up, then pressed down to lock it in place. In place, all the way just like when I "watched" voltages while swapping "end of hybrid battery" hardware and computer. ...yes, the "orange plug is locked down (pressed down) on the hv battery."
     
    #3 DKG1011, Jul 16, 2015
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  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Did you transfer all your old parts to the new battery? The ecu etc
     
    #4 JC91006, Jul 16, 2015
  5. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    Oh ya, there was hardware to transfer as well as the battery computer itself that got transferred to the new battery. All the connectors in the vehicle were connected up to the old computer lil box. No loose connectors anywhere. Old puter installed, all connections made.
     
    #5 DKG1011, Jul 16, 2015
  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You should now check your 12v battery health, what's the voltage?
     
    #6 JC91006, Jul 16, 2015
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  7. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    Earlier it was 11.89V. The charger was hooked up to it and still did not work.
     
    #7 DKG1011, Jul 16, 2015
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Time to get Mini VCI, because it is guaranteed that DTC are present.

    While you are waiting to receive that, put the 12V battery on a charger, 4A charging current position, overnight.

    Disconnect the 12V battery while you are charging it so that the ECUs have a chance to power down and lose the stored DTC.
     
    #8 Patrick Wong, Jul 16, 2015
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  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Fully charge the 12v and try again.

    This time disconnect the 12v negative for a few seconds to delete all the codes.
     
    #9 JC91006, Jul 16, 2015
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  10. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    Hmmm... 30+ minutes later went to check aux bat volts (12.7V) and "start" the vehicle. Hmm... now have Ready light. Got van out of the way and did a test drive. No oddball lights/messages, car drove fine up to speed limit+ on way and way back. All seems good now! Ready to test drive to work in morning. With working AC at last! Hope all continues well. Will post tomorrow of success or not.
     
    #10 DKG1011, Jul 17, 2015
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Your photo showed one bar on the fuel gauge, and if only one bar still is present now, I hope you will purchase gasoline at the outset of your test drive. You really do not want to run out of fuel.
     
    #11 Patrick Wong, Jul 17, 2015
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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats! and i would still charge the battery overnight. how old is it? something you might keep an eye on.
     
    #12 bisco, Jul 17, 2015
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  13. DKG1011

    DKG1011 Junior Member

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    When the car went to "ready," the fuel gauge updated properly too showing 2/3 full (bout what I expected). Aux battery is "new," replaced it about 2 years ago. Drives fine to work (30 miles one way). It's nice to have working AC and Cruise!
     
    #13 DKG1011, Jul 19, 2015
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  14. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    After disconnecting the 12 volt battery TWO pushes of the power button are required to start the car. The first push will light up the dash as shown. On the second power button push the car will start normally. This applies to just the first time starting after the 12 volt was disconnected.

    Brad
     
    #14 strawbrad, Jul 29, 2015
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  15. kinglew

    kinglew Member

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    How much did you spend on new battery hybrid
     
    #15 kinglew, Jul 29, 2015
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    because we all know that toyota doesn't sell 'new' battery hybrids.
     
    #16 bisco, Jul 29, 2015
  17. kinglew

    kinglew Member

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    ThatThat is. Correct
     
    #17 kinglew, Jul 29, 2015
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    omundo!
     
    #18 bisco, Jul 29, 2015
  19. gdanner

    gdanner Member

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    I do recall needing to press the "power" button on my Prius more than one time after I reconnected the 12V battery.
     
    #19 gdanner, Jul 29, 2015
  20. gdanner

    gdanner Member

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    Does anyone know how long it takes for all the ECU units in a Prius to get themselves organized after the 12V is reconnected? My guess is this might take several minutes...
     
    #20 gdanner, Jul 29, 2015
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