Won't Boot - Replaced 12v battery did not fix

I have been testing relays. I tested the two under the dash on the drivers side near the power source control. I tested two on the inside fuse panel. I tested all in the center engine compartment relay box. I haven't tested the relays in the engine fuse box yet. Not sure which is high voltage as my traction battery is still connected. I haven't found a bad relay yet. Is it okay to just start pulling relays out of the engine fuse box and testing them?

 

My latest attempts and results.
With the 12v battery disconnected the new battery measured 12.8 volts.
After I connected it it measured 12.75 volts at the battery and 12.72 volts at the terminal under the hood.
I hear a beep-beep-beep with the door open.
When I get in and shut the doors the beeping stops.
The only light is a flashing car/key security light. The smart key is turned off.
After I put the key in the ignition all lights are out.
When I press the brake pedal I hear the system pump up.
When I press the power button( with brake press) all I get is a flash of the check engine light and the power button blinks amber a few times. I tried this several times.
If I push the power button without the brake pedal, the check engine light does not come on but the power button keeps blinking amber.
That's all the car does. The windows won't go up and no multi display or combination meter.
The headlights work and the overhead light works.

With the mini-vci and techstream I got the following results:
Power Source B2271 Ignition Hold Monitor
B2274 Acc Monitor
Smart Key system - no codes
Body - no codes
Immobilizer - B2775 Interior Verification
LAN B1248 AVC Lan communication impossible
All other systems said unavailable

I believe that a bad 12volt battery may have started all this but not sure. After the car quit the 12 volt proved to be bad and I bought a new one.

I have checked all of the fuses and relays I could find.
I have replaced the Power source control.

Does anyone have any ideas.
Thanks, Dan

 

When I purchased the car, it ran but the multi-display did not work. I replaced the multi-display with an eBay one and this fixed the issues with the display. The only problem it was having was the catalytic converter system error codes. I had not fixed that yet. I got one key with the purchase and I bought another key from Black Hills Toyota in Rapid City. They supplied and programmed the new key. Both key fobs were working when the car quit. My daughter drove the car for about three months with no problems. I have the repair manuals for 2006. I'm not sure how many changes there were from 2005 to 2006. This prius is a 2005. I took the dash out and checked the two relays next to the steering column. I checked two relays on the jumper block above the inside fuses. I believe that IG1 was one of these. I checked all the relays in the center engine area. I haven't checked the relays in the engine fuse box around the high voltage area. I have checked fuses in both engine area and under dash area. I will go back and recheck AM1 and AM2 tomorrow. I tested the fuses by removing them and using a meter. I removed the relays and used a 12v battery and meter to check them. I have been sorting through the wiring diagrams. It is a lot to take in. I knew when I bought the car that it was a gamble with 244k. I'm hoping my daughter can put another 100k on it driving back and forth to college. Now she's got the family mini-van. Used parts are cheap on eBay from wrecked priuses but the programming is what I'm finding difficult. Thank you for your reply. Dan

 

I purchased the car with one key fob. I bought another one from Toyota and they programmed it. So I had two working fobs when the 12v battery went out. Do you think a bad 12v could goof up the key programming? This is just a guess. Thanks, Dan.

 

Both key fobs worked before this happened. I'm pretty sure I tried both of them. When I insert the key in the slot the security light stops flashing. Nothing will power on. I'll retry tomorrow with each key and with sks on and off. The key I bought from Toyota is only a few months old.

 

Thanks for the replys. It's raining today and I have a tarp over the car. Cause the windows won't roll up. I'm indoors studying the electrical schematics and highlighting the areas Patrick said to check. I'll get back with the results. Thanks, Dan.

 

I have located most everything in Patrick's post. Will check when the weather gets better. I am having trouble finding the relays PWR and IG2. Also, I know the difference between amps and volts, but when they say high current relay do they mean the high voltage system from the traction battery?

 

Sorry, when I referred to "they", I meant whoever wrote the toyota electrical schematics. On the schematic that I have, which is for 2006 prius, in the electrical schematic section, page 30 section F Relay locations Drivers side J/B, they refer to the 30 Amp PWR fuse as (High Current). So since I have not disconnected my traction battery, I am wondering if High Current actually means High Voltage. And if it is high voltage, should I disconnect the traction battery before further troubleshooting? I read somewhere that things can be damaged if you connect the 12v battery without the traction battery being connected. Thanks, Dan.

 

Note on taking the car to the Toyota dealership. I know that everyone who has followed this post is probably saying to themselves, just take the car to the dealership. I will do that eventually. But the dealership is in another town and the car won't go into neutral so it's going to take a tow truck and a lot of hassle. My daughter is driving our Mini-van so no one is without a car. Also the car is high mileage and not worth much. I like Prius's and enjoy piddling with it, even though I'm not an expert mechanic. So I just want to explore as many options as I can before I give up and tow the car to Toyota with my head hung in shame. Dan

 

I'm still not sure where the PWR relay is. I took the drivers side j/b completely out and re-checked every fuse and relay visible on a work bench. It was almost easier that laying on my back trying to look up at the fuses. I took the plastic cover off the back and took out the body ecu. That's as far as I got as I wasn't sure how to disassemble part anymore. Does anyone know where the pwr relay is? Thanks, Dan.