Power button blinking amber

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by briansterling, Apr 11, 2015.

  1. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    So I've been working on this 2005 prius with smart key and I'm stuck. I had the auxiliary battery go bad months ago and i finally got around to dropping a yellow top. I get everything hooked up and now it won't even start. I'll sit down and after i press the government power button and it'll turn green and after a second push it turns amber and blinks.

    No lights, no warnings, no sounds, no nothing. I can't pull any DTCs with my techstream laptop so I'm at an impasse.

    The only thing i did wrong was hook the 12v up backwards thanks to a confusing battery terminal placement. This was only for a minute so im not sure what that could've damaged.

    Here's a video that gives more detail.
     
    #1 briansterling, Apr 11, 2015
  2. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    [​IMG] Okay So I know no one has even replied yet but I found the issue. It seems at some point the 100a fuse link blew in the fuse box. Only problem is now how do I fix it. I really don't want to take the whole fuse box out. I was going to just solder the gap since it's so small but I also don't want to half nice person it. Any advice would be welcome.
     
    #2 briansterling, Apr 11, 2015
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    reversing the polarity will do that. you'll be fortunate if the fuse saved the inverter from getting fried. i don't know if there's a way to replace the fuse without removing the box, but soldering sounds like a mistake.
     
    #3 bisco, Apr 11, 2015
  4. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Apparently you do have to partially remove the fuse box from the fender to get to a bottom cover and then there are about 6 nuts and wires to remove. Most likely some other fuses are blown as well. See this link and the pictures shown in one of the posts within.

    How to change Fusible link under hood | PriusChat

    Here are the pics from the photobucket link
     

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    #4 rjparker, Apr 11, 2015
    bisco likes this.
  5. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    You should have gotten the 12V battery from the dealer. Non-SKS cars come standard w/ 35Amp Hr battery. Yellow Top Optima is 36Amp Hr. 12V Batteries for SKS-cars are 45Amp Hr.

    Plenty of dealer discount retail coupons floating around. Costco has a 15% off retail dealer parts, at participating dealers. Dealers w/ online sites will probably match or come down in price.
     
    #5 exstudent, Apr 11, 2015
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    A correct repair requires replacement of the fusible link assembly. Check for other burnt out fuses, for example DOME.

    If you are lucky, replacement of the fusible link and possible other fuses are all that is required. If you are not lucky, you will find the DC/DC converter was destroyed by the battery reversed polarity issue and you will need to install a replacement inverter.
     
    #6 Patrick Wong, Apr 11, 2015
  7. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    So I found a fusable link with the correct amp/volt rating and soldered it in place with high heat solder. Should be as good as original (not as pretty thought). So now I'm back to square one with my codes. I've attached a screen shot. I'm getting ABS/VSC errors which would make me think the ABS/VSC control unit (beside the aux battery) is bad, if not for the fact that I have a working spare that I've swapped in and still get the bad codes. Anyone got any ideas for the issue?

    I've cleared the DTCs and they keep coming back and not letting me put the car in "ready" mode. I'm getting an air conditioner code as well but I think that's just an outlier symptom.

    Side note: Can anyone suggest a good bluetooth OSB reader with an iOS app?



    [​IMG]
     
    #7 briansterling, Apr 12, 2015
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    First check the following fuses: 15A ABS MAIN3, 25A ABS-1, 30A ABS-2, 10A ABS MAIN1, 10A ABS MAIN2, 7.5A IGN, 7.5A ECU-IG, 15A DOME, 10A GAUGE. "Check" means that you find and remove each fuse, one at a time, and use an ohmmeter to verify continuity. Do not rely upon visual inspection.

    Then, if you have found all fuses to be good: DTC C1203 and C1345 both point to the skid control ECU as being the problem area. The first code points to a communications error while the second code relates to initialization of the linear solenoid valve and calibration. Maybe that ECU was destroyed when the battery polarity was reversed.

    If you are sure that the "working spare" skid control ECU actually works correctly in another Prius, put the suspect ECU into that other Prius and see what happens. If both ECUs are found to be functional in another Prius then maybe the wiring harness to the skid control ECU was damaged in some way.
     
    #8 Patrick Wong, Apr 12, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2015
  9. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    I relied on visual inspection of the fuses but that would explain a few things. I will look into this and report back.
     
    #9 briansterling, Apr 12, 2015
  10. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    I found that my DOME fuse was blown. replaced it with the spare of same rating and things got better. Now I only have these codes:

    C1203 - Engine Control Systems Communication Circuit
    C1345 - Not learning linear valve offset

    Are there any other fuses I should be checking besides those in the fuse box?
     
    #10 briansterling, Apr 12, 2015
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You need to check all of the fuses listed in my post #8 above. Assuming that you have done so, those fuses are all good, and the two DTC persist, then the most likely problem is the skid control ECU itself.
     
    #11 Patrick Wong, Apr 12, 2015
  12. briansterling

    briansterling Junior Member

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    I'm going to pick up a skid ECU sometime this week and try it out. I'm lucky enough to have a local yard that lets me borrow parts and just pay for what I use. This part however is going to be a pain in the butt to remove it looks like. I'll report back soon.
     
    #12 briansterling, Apr 13, 2015
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