How do you reset ABS light & yellow ((!)) ?

Here is where I started:
Now I have my first real issue. Had the oil changed and tires rotated at the dealer, with wash and vehicle inspection $39 here in MT. They let me know front brakes 4mmL, 0mm R, rear 1mm L, Omm R, so I arranged for a brake job. Morning of, get to the dealer, turn off the car, turn it back on and brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights on constantly. Soft pedal but brakes still work. Car functions fine.

Here is where I finished:
Went back to the dealer today to get the rear brakes redone, per the above. After 1.5 hours they let me know, their mistake, they misdiagnosed the rears, and the rear brakes are fine. The checked the codes and came up with C1247 and C1300. Cleared the codes and everything is back to normal. The said if it happens again it's time to replace the STROKE SENSOR ECU $2010. 2 hours total time there. No charge.

 

Here is where I started:
Now I have my first real issue. Had the oil changed and tires rotated at the dealer, with wash and vehicle inspection $39 here in MT. They let me know front brakes 4mmL, 0mm R, rear 1mm L, Omm R, so I arranged for a brake job. Morning of, get to the dealer, turn off the car, turn it back on and brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights on constantly. Soft pedal but brakes still work. Car functions fine.

Here is where I finished:
Went back to the dealer today to get the rear brakes redone, per the above. After 1.5 hours they let me know, their mistake, they misdiagnosed the rears, and the rear brakes are fine. The checked the codes and came up with C1247 and C1300. Cleared the codes and everything is back to normal. The said if it happens again it's time to replace the STROKE SENSOR ECU $2010. 2 hours total time there. No charge.

 

Same problem here of four lights on-- brake in red and ((!)) ABS VSC in yellow. I got them to go off after restarting car about five times.Warning lights came back on after driving about fifteen minutes.Currently on road trip and hope to limp into Tucson yet tonight. Any suggestions for repair place in Tucson area if resetting by paperclip doesn't work?
2004 with 207,000 miles. Replaced 12v battery two weeks ago.

PA P

 

Check the inverter coolant reservoir for fluid turbulence when the Prius is READY. If you don't see that, the inverter coolant pump has failed.

If you see turbulence then you need to have the skid control ECU DTC read to have a clue about what is wrong.

Precision Toyota, 700 W Wetmore Road, Tucson. (520) 795-5565

 

Thanks Patrick. Nice to see you are in Green Valley. I should add that Tucson is our trip destination and we plan to be here a week, so we have a bit of time to pull things together. Here is the update since writing last evening—

Turned car off and on while switching drivers last night. Four warning lights came back on. Then after a few minutes, while driving, those lights went off and the check engine light came on. Scangauge showed code P045D. Google = Exhaust Gas Recirculation B Control Circuit High. I did NOT reset the code. I checked half an hour later and it only showed code P1121, which has been showing up occasionally the last few months. I generally reset this one and go on. I know this is coolant circulation valve related and I do often hear circulation pump sounds, but I haven't gotten around to biting the bullet in this one, but I understand it is not critical. If it throws a code during annual inspection then I will need to have that work done.

So I reset the P1121 code while driving last evening and everything remained code and light free for the last 50 miles. However, there i heard some scraping sounds from the rear when braking as we drove into Tucson.

Turned the car on this morning. No warning lights or codes. Inverter coolant is "turbulent."

PA P

 

DTC P045D is not valid on 2G (or Classic) Prius, as the engine on that model does not have an exhaust gas recirculation system.

It is true that you can tolerate the presence of DTC P1121 indefinitely, however that may impact the performance of the cabin heater and the coolant heat recovery system (which in my opinion is a marginal system anyway.)

It sounds like the rear brake shoe lining also needs to be checked, the lining may be excessively worn.

 

Thanks, Patrick. Our few ten mile trips today went fine, no warning lights, codes or brake sounds. Wondering why the invalid code, etc. Will likely see how the next few days go. Going down to Canelo mid-week.

PA P

Not sure why the above entry did not post last evening. I stopped in at Precision Toyota this morning after all for some peace of mind. That is quite the place-- two drive-thru lines for service admission/questions. The tech I talked with seemed knowledgeable, but said there isn't a lot they could do without me dropping the car off for the day. Since no lights or codes are showing he didn't think I need to be too concerned. I'll see how things go the rest of the week here before heading east again this weekend. Contrary to what you said, Patrick, the tech said PO45D is legit for the Gen 2 and could be something as simple as loose gas cap.

PA P

 

Well, that DTC does not show up in my copy of the factory service manual.

 

I didn't mean that as a challenge to you, but only to report what he had told me. If I had to choose, I'd lean toward your experience!

PA P

 

Car seems to be running fine, although above mentioned warning lights come on and go off occasionally. Then this evening the check engine light came on and showed code C0B04 and I am not finding that via google. I'm not positive whether these are 0 or O's. I cleared the code, so can't double check that.

PA P

 

ZERO no "oh".

Get mini VCI so you can report genuine Prius codes.

This link will answer your nearly all of your questions for a Windows set-up (32bit XP/Win7).
TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum - View Single Post - Offical TechStream software thread( settings and such)

The Tundra link above also references this link below, for a 64bit Win7 or Win8 set-up.
(Solution) Mini VCI + Toyota TIS Techstream 8.x on Windows 7/8 64-bit. - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Remember, getting any code read at a dealer is typically >$100. The miniVCI cable is $25. Obviously you'll want a laptop for diagnosis purposes.

 

Thanks for the excellent tip. My lights warning came on after a routine replacement of the front pads and rotors. With the lights on, the ABS and Power booster also didn't work. Your paper clip and pumping technique worked perfectly and brakes are great now. Thanks a bunch! By the way, the brakes I replaced had 225K miles on them and could have gone another 100K or so but one rotor was pretty rusty, rough, and rubbing so I decided to spring for the parts. Very glad I did now that you helped me get those darned lights off.

 

Like others, I replaced my 07 Prius front pads. Simple job. Actually easiest of any car I have owned. Used my caliper tool to press the caliper back in.

When I started the car, the dash looked like a Christmas tree of error codes. I took the car for a test drive up to 40 mph and hammered the brakes. Well the car proceeded to lock up on the front left side squealing the tire and throwing the right rear of the car to the left. I friggin near thought I was going in the ditch. And only at 40 mph. Then, more prepared, I went up to 60 mph and tried, less aggressively, to brake. The car still lurched hard to the right. No lock up this time as I was easier on the pedal.

Swearing and cursing the fact that I would have to visit a dealer (stealer), I began surfing the web for a solution. The paper clip jumper trick on the OBD from PIN4 - PIN13 worked flawlessly. Power car on with the brake pedal depressed (READY) with paper clip already in place, then pump the brakes more than 8 times as fast as you can (under 5 secs). Then turn off car, remove paper clip jumper, and restart car.

I took my car for a test drive and it drives like a dream.

Again, I would urge any wannabe mechanic to learn to do your pads yourself. It is an easy job with 2 bolts to remove and replace. I spent $40 on pads and with a little grief, the job was a success. Next time, with the paper clip ready, the job will go off without a hitch.

 

One way to avoid the grief would be to disconnect the 12V battery prior to working on the brake system so that the skid control ECU would not log any DTC. Press the brake pedal hard a few times after installing the new pads so the caliper pistons will take up any existing space between the pistons and the pads. Then reconnect the battery and the car should be ready for a test drive.

 

^ Yup yup.

Just to add, the LAST thing you want to do with new brake pads is hammer them. As much as practical take it easy on them for at least 100 miles.

 

I used the described method and it worked, thanks

 

I'm hoping someone on this thread can help me seeing how there seems to be lots of highly knowledgeable posts in this particular thread. I posted it on a thread I made but have had no replies.

A bit of backstory, a couple months ago, we had a wheel bearing on the drivers side go bad on our 2006 Prius, so we just went ahead and replaced both front bearings at the same time. After the bearings were replaced, the brakes never felt the same. The transition from regen to friction brakes happen at 15mph now with a noticeable lurch forward, compared to the normal 7mph where the transition from regen to friction was smooth and barley noticeable. Shortly after, the ABS and (!) light came on. Took it back to the same garage, he read the code and said it was the right side speed sensor that went bad. So we replaced it with a new one. Got the car back and it's still doing the same thing but the ABS and (!) lights are out. The lights stayed out for a couple months surprisingly. (I thought the old left side speed sensor was what was causing the lurching transition from regen to friction at 15mph) so I decided to wait if any warnings pop up before spending more money.

Fast forward to four days ago, the ABS light comes on, along with the (!) symbol. Finally. So we take it in and he reads the code, *left* front wheel speed sensor is bad. (I kind of expected it.)

I was hoping this would fix the regen cutting out at 15mph vs the stock 7-8mph. Before any of this, the brakes were smooth and transition from regen to friction brakes at 7-8mph were unnoticed. Now it transitions at 14-15mph and the transition is a noticeable lurch as it switches.

it's only driven 10 miles so far with the new sensor and now *sometimes* it will now actually regen like normal down to 7mph, but with still a noticeable lurch when transitioning. But I'd say 85% of the time, it's still transitions at 15mph. I'm hoping it's something that clears up once it learns itself? Or if there isn't a "learning itself" bracket and something's still off.

 

sorry... know this is an old post

Does this #13 and #4 clip trick work on Gen 1

(2002)


I have a mini VCI... which way is better to clear the codes ?


ABS and brake lights coming on .. I replaced brakes 3-4 months ago and they came on but a stomp on pedal then start made the lights(and high pitched squeal) go away... later started becoming more frequent (never removed or cleaned the abs sensors) Now the squeal and lights are there 100% and wont go off.

Not sure a code reset will fix it...suspecting dirty sensors or a bad sensor or lead plug.

 

Just looking through this as my VSC, ABS, ((!)) lights are on after getting a brand new key made (lost the spare, don't ask!). The technician said they would go off after driving 50 miles. They didn't. We tried the paper clip trick twice and it didn't reset the lights. Any thoughts. We have a 2004.

 

Check the inverter coolant reservoir for fluid turbulence when the Prius is READY. If you do not see this then the inverter coolant pump has failed.

If the pump is OK, you will need to get Mini VCI, to read the DTC logged by the skid control ECU. Since the warning lights are not resetting, that means your car has a current problem. That problem is unrelated to getting a new fob.