How do you reset ABS light & yellow ((!)) ?

Well, unfortunately this doesn't seem like it's going to be an easy fix. I tried the pin 4 and 13 trick multiple times with no luck.

I drove the car all the way home (NYC) from Detroit and the breaks worked fine, but they definitely felt like the computer assist was not working. I dropped it off at my local mechanic today and he said that he couldn't get his diagnostic device to talk to the computer. He has two- a SnapOn and a OTC (I think that's what he said). Neither would communicate to see what the codes were.

He checked the sensors and apparently a few were waterlogged, so that may have been shorting things out. I made an appointment with a Toyota dealership tomorrow. I'm hoping they're not going to tell me it's a fried computer or something. I still think this whole thing is just a simple reset or maybe a new sensor…

Thanks again for your help!

 

Update to my issue for posterity. The Toyota dealer had to re-train the computer and reconnect it to all the sensors. $216 later everything is back up and running!

 

Dear Paul

I have got same error codes on my 2008 Prius I have change the battery Yesterday by Totota Please explain to me how clear the Error codes using paper clip My error codes are Air Bag DTC B1653,B1655,B1821,B1826 OSF, Air Bag DTC B1653,B1655,B1821,B1826 OSF, NSF seat wire harness req Repair and Transmission ECU Dtc C2300,C2318 Actuator System malfunction

Thank you,

 

After working on my brake pads and compressing the caliper pistons, my ABS, Brake, and (!) lights came on when I started the car. I also accidentally pressed the brake petal while the break pads were off and the car was on, but the piston on the caliper did not come out very far. After reading the thread describing resetting the codes using the ODBII plug, I have not been successful.

I used a paperclip to jumper 4 and 13. I depress the brake and press start to see "Ready" on the dash. However, the ABS and other light never blink, the touch screen never changes; the car just started as normal. I thought perhaps I started counting pins from the wrong orientation, so I also tried jumping pins 4 and 13 from the other direction (changes the pins by one position in each row).
What am I doing wrong to initiate the reset?

 

It sounds like you did not disconnect the 12V battery prior to working on the brakes. That precaution should be observed in the future.

Position yourself so that as you look at the OBD-II connector, the longer base is at the bottom. Pin 1 is on the bottom row, far right. Hence pin 4 is four pins over as you move to the left.

Pin 9 is on the upper row, far right. Hence pin 13 is five pins over as you move to the left. After the two pins are shorted together, make the Prius READY. Depress the brake pedal 8x during a five-second period to clear the skid control ECU DTC. If the DTC will not clear then you have a current problem with the brakes and you need to observe the flashing light pattern on the skid control ECU warning lights: ABS, VSC, or ((!)) to get a clue about the problem.

Or better, get Mini VCI so that you can directly retrieve the logged DTC.

Do not connect pins together in the OBD-II socket without being absolutely sure about the correct pins. You might damage the system if you shorted the battery voltage terminal pin to the ground pin or to a data terminal pin, as an example.

 

I just ran across this same issue with the VSC, ABS, ((!)) and tire pressure monitor lights (but no red triangle) illuminating orange yesterday after starting up the car on a cold morning. Of course I came here first to check it out and noticed that there is no image of the OBD2 port pin placement in this thread. Here is one for future reference:

GenII OBD2 port

 

Thank you for the diagram. I too wasn't clear on this. Just had the same happen on a cold morning start with the addition of wonky braking. I take it the jump will clear this up. One other thing I did check my battery 11.6 then up to 13.9 in ready. Any connection?

 

ust had the same on a cold morning start with wonky braking

 

Dear Patrick,
You seem to be the go to guy at prius chat. I have the same problem with a 2004, 183K. Started on a cold morning with brake, (!), abs, and vsc lights on and wonky braking. Never seen this before. Checked my battery per video on you tube; 11.6 and then 13.9 on ready mode. Battery messing with the ABS? Did the coolant pump check and swirling fluid, A OK.

 

So what was the outcome? I had the exact same thing happen to my 2004 w/183K last Saturday.

 

Get Mini VCI so that you can read the DTC logged by the skid control ECU.

The 12V battery is marginal and if it is more than 4 years old I suggest you replace it soon. If less than 4 years old, fully-charge the battery overnight and measure the voltage 8 hours after you discontinue charging.

 

Thank you for the fast response. And a Mini VCI is? I have a scanner to plug into the OBD II port. Same?

 

If your scanner does not pick up the DTC logged by the skid control ECU then it will be worthless to deal with this particular issue.

Mini VCI is a clone of the Toyota Techstream software and associated cable used by dealer techs. You can buy it on Amazon.com and it runs on a Windows XP or Windows 7, 32 bit OS laptop.

 

Thank you again for your quick response. I'll check the codes, but I suspect something as simple as a weak battery is causing this problem

 

Ran the scanner and no codes appear. A battery, and then the suggested jump from 4 to 13 to clear the lights.
Thank you again.

 

As Patrick has already pointed out if your using a generic scanner it will not read most of the DTC codes for the Prius "it will probably read just the engine codes". This is why no codes are shown. Clearing the codes will not work if the fault still exists.
Connecting a jump battery "observing polarity" will rule out the battery.

John (Britprius)

 

Being a newbie at this I pushed my power button once to check the codes. Should I have pushed it twice in accessory mode to check the codes? Could you elaborate on your statement, "
Connecting a jump battery "observing polarity" will rule out the battery?"

 

If the 12 volt battery in your car is suspected of causing false DTC's because of a low voltage. Connecting a known good battery to it will eliminate the problem. However when connecting another battery it is very important to connect the battery the correct way round (positive to positive, and negative to negative. Connecting the wrong way even for a split second can do very expensive damage.
You should have pushed the button twice or even put the car in ready mode, but unless the code reader is Prius specific I doubt it will show the codes you need.

John (Britprius)

 

Just

Just did the scan again after pressing the power button twice, same results. Can I jump the HV battery from a battery I have in an explorer w/o the engine running? Or do I need to pull it an hook it up directly?