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Changing oil in a Prius sucks

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by mmmodem, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    how much torque are you suppose to give that canister?
     
  2. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    28 ft lbs

    try that with a regular torque wrench; not enough room/
     
  3. adamace1

    adamace1 Senior Member

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    If you work at a dealer you would be putting a couple hundred foot pounds. Maybe kick it with your foot.

    I think you just need to snug it up with one hand.
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i siphon the extra oil out after every dealer change, then take it to the dealer very fifth change and make them deduct it from the price.;)
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    18 ft/lb's, for the oil filter housing.

    28 ft/lb's for the oil drain bolt. <Ah woops, it's 27 ft/lbs, rechecking my attachment
     
    #25 Mendel Leisk, Jan 11, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
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  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Wow only 18ft pounds. I saw the guy that did mine last time, maybe applied 3x that torque
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    18 ft/lbs is not trivial, it being a large diameter item, and does take a bit of effort to break loose next time. I'm the only one whose touched ours, always used a torque wrench. It is definitely more than "hand tight".

    The main object is to prevent it coming loose; the seal is the O-ring along the body. I mean, you could back it out a turn or two, it would still seal, as long as it doesn't start unscrewing itself, and even that's unlikely. The metal clip is ineffectual, at least it doesn't get in your way. Any regular oil filter socket of the right dimensions will work, there's nothing unique needed.

    I'm using a Honda socket, looks like this. Again, the spec is 64 mm inside face-to-face, 14 facets:

    honda oil filter socket - combined.jpg
     
    #27 Mendel Leisk, Jan 11, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Maybe I should start doing my own changes, that's like the only thing I don't do lol. It cost me $10 labor and I've always let my mechanic do it
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I suppose I barely come out ahead in $'s, the cost on a typical oil change is $32.11 (Can) plus tax. That's for all Toyota at the parts counter. And then maybe every 4~5th change it's an extra $5.65, when I buy an extra liter of the 0W20 (I put in 4.2 liters).

    The main thing is I like doing it: it's at my convenience. I can take my sweet time, remove the engine underpanel completely, keep it pristine. I look over the drive and steering boots, check for leaks, etcetera. I've got a garage with a slab, the floor jack, safety stands and so on.
     
  10. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Yes, definitely harder than it should be. Here's another gotcha' I found : if using ramps, you need the special low rise style to clear the front air dam; however, these won't raise the car high enough to rotate the flap out of the way. grrrrrr.......
     
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  11. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    My method...It's called "angular torque" position.

    Mark the position of the canister housing at the proper torque, and you'll NEVER have to use the torque wrench again.

    To tighten the cap correctly, just return it to the same position.
     

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  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I'm curious if one were to really crank this thing tight, how far off the mark would that be?
     
    #32 JC91006, Jan 11, 2015
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I'm kinda sceptical of the mark method, for a couple of reasons:

    1. I've got torque wrenches, so why not just use them?
    2. Over time, with wear-and-tear on the cap, maybe it needs to turn further to achieve same torque.

    Either way, the thing is not going to unscrew itself, but still: #1 does it for me.

    Somebody here mentioned to buy a spare cap, good idea, I should really do it. Spiderman found the plastic on his was starting to powder a bit, I think.
     
  14. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    Here's all you need to know for a Gen III oil change,
     
  15. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    You might be skeptical, but the entire auto and aerospace industry is NOT.

    Almost every manufacturer specifies the "angular torque" method as the most accurate method of tightening engine head bolts.

    How much wear on the PA6 fiberglass filled nylon cap is there? It is lubricate by oil. Most of the friction is on the "o" ring, which is replaced and lubricated with oil, too.
     
  16. mmmodem

    mmmodem Senior Taste Tester

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    That's the tool that broke on me. Mine was less robust. The square insert was a separate disk attached to the cup instead of one monolithic piece in the picture. 18 ft/lbs huh? I was always told hand tight. But this is the first paper element filter I've ever failed to change. We'll see if I have the muscle.
     
  17. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    Hey; The Toyota wrench might appear to be expensive on the outset.

    But it is CHEAP in the long run, when one calculates the cost of broken or damages parts, lost time and aggravation.

    And, if the cap is over tightened, this is the wrench that they used.

    It will be the same wrench that you'll need to take it off.
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i thought the gas cap had a ratcheting mechanism to keep from over tightening?
     
  19. DadofHedgehog

    DadofHedgehog Active Member

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    Not in my experience.
     
  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    really? you don't tighten it until it clicks? i must be thinking of another car, i haven't purchased gasoline in months.:cool: