*MODIFICATION JOURNAL* I got my hands on the girlfriend's Prius ...here is what I did.

Yea, I can see that. Thankfully I rarely drive her car for long distances.


I did not note the MPG before and have not checked it post spacer install. If the car was mine and drove it daily I could intentionally eliminate other variables and attempt to notice a change. If there was any change I think it would be a minimal amount and hard to notice anyway. My thoughts are the spacers would help MPG at higher speeds where there is significant wind resistance, the flush wheel-fender fitment should help eliminate turbulence. Other than added stress on the wheel bearing and the slight resistance that could create, I don't see how the spacers would hurt MPG. Regardless I would happily trade an MPG or two for the athletic stance the car has.

Evan

 

Unfortunately I don't recall the bolt size diameter or pitch. I unbolted one and took it into the store. Spacers are 1" which I think is the maximum height I would go. I had to be very careful to not cross-thread when installing. There is more recline than I was expecting for only 1" up front. I would try .75" and see how that works.

 

I don't like amber reflectors, I don't like amber bulbs, and I don't care for ugly exhaust pipes/mufflers. I prime example is the exhaust on full-size trucks, the manufacturers leave a long pipe/tip exposed at the back of the truck and it often ends in a horizontal position so the person driving behind the can view the pipe in all it's ugliness. I understand the concept of the design to keep water from entering the system and also release gases behind the tire, but that doesn't make it any more attractive to the onlooker.

Call my Type-A because I am. I notice these things and hate them.

In general the Prius has nice exhaust aesthetics as most of it is tucked away underneath the car but when following my girlfriend on the highway the contrast of the muffler really caught my eye. Well I fixed that with some high-temp paint! I didn't bother to do the sides of the muffler as there wasn't much reward for the effort.

Evan


Can't STAND exhausts like this!


Before and After


Much better!

 

I tapped into the existing wiring and ran different ballasts/bulbs.

Email sent.

 

This is more of a restoration than modification but an improvement nonetheless. On my girlfriends car the window trim was starting to show it's age. There was some oxidation to go along with what looked like some slight corrosion. The upper and lower trim, pillars, and side view mirror base all got Plasti Dipped. I previously Dipped the side mirror caps so everything matches now. ...details, details, details.

The surfaces were cleaned and then wiped with alcohol prior, taping took the longest but in the end it all turned out well. I ended up using 2 cans of Dip for this project.

Cheers,
Evan

 

The short answer is yes. I like to fix things and I like to develop efficient routines; it seems silly to waste time searching for something when you could just have a "spot" for it and always know where it is when needed. The garage is a greater reflection of this since I do more fixing with more tools but the kitchen certainly serves an important role as I love preparing and eating food.

Cheers,
Evan

 

Recently I ordered some LED pods from Aliexpress. My original goal was to use some as backup lights on my BMW 535xi but the silver pods were too large and I was unsuccessful removing the LED and driver from the metal housing some of the smaller bolt-style pods were not bright enough for back up lights so I found some other uses for them.

I followed in the footsteps of JUSTDIDIT I utilized these LEDs for puddle lights; I plan to install another pair on the underside of the rear tailgate as puddle/cargo lights (I also did this today on my BMW and am very pleased with the results).

Unfortunately I wired the light into the driver vanity mirror thinking power would be the same as the main dome light, it is not and the LED stays on ALL the time time. I will rewire it tomorrow. This mod was a little more challenging that I thought it would be, running the wires through the conduit and giving everything a clean install proved to be difficult.

When it is all said and done this modification will have cost me around $10.

Here are some pics.

Evan


6 "9w Eagle Eye" LEDs


Compared to a higher output Cree LED pod I also purchased.


Testing the LED


Making a mess


LED mounted. The end of the bolt is really close to the mirror mount but I think it should be ok.


BEFORE


AFTER

 

I went ahead and a pair of these LEDs in the rear tailgate. The stock interior lighting in this car is terrible the other lights will eventually be replaced with LEDs, probably some COB style panels. The tailgate install did not take very long compared to the side mirrors, this mod was straight forward and cheap! Highly recommended.

Evan


Tailgate prior to install


Tailgate after


Installed and powered up


THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS ALL HAVE THE SAME CAMERA SETTING IN MANUAL MODE:
Before #1 (All interior lights on)


After #1 (Only Cargo lights on)


Before #2 (all interior lights on)


After #2 (only cargo)


With side-view mirror puddle lamps on; you can barely see the interior lights (windows are up but they are not tinted)


For this photo the camera was in Automatic mode

 

Wiring is pretty simple. I wanted these tailgate lights to go on with the rear cargo light and not the interior lights (dome lights and front door puddle lamps), if they were wired to the interior lights the whole cargo area would be lit up with the tailgate shut, and although it looks cool (I will post a pic later) it was excessive for my intended function.

I tapped into the rear cargo light with some T-taps, ran some basic 18g automotive wire behind the plastic panels from the light, through the rubber conduit connecting the roof to the tailgate and along the driver-side of the tailgate to the panel where the LEDs are mounted. I left some excess wire length so that panel with the LEDs can be dropped without worrying about unplugging or damaging anything.

Some simple screw-caps were used to join the both LEDs to the wire ran from the cargo light, so each screw-cap connected 3 wires. The LEDs require such little power there was no worrying about how to wire them (series, parallel, etc.) I tested the output and they are just as bright wired this way as any other so simplicity prevailed.

I recommend some thread-lock for the LEDs to keep them from possibly vibrating loose down the road.

Evan

T-tap used on the cargo light.