maintenance for 100k prius

welcome!
1) if your tyres are wearing evenly and the car tracks well, i wouldn't bother. did they give you specs?
2) if you don't have odor, change yourself evey 15k, $15. per.
3) you can wait until 120k on the plugs, check o/m for pcv.
4) probably a good idea, seems pricey, you can do.
5) if your not losing coolant, don't bother.
6) do the trans fluid, $120. is a better price or easy diy.
7) check o/m seems early?
8&9) check o/m for time/mileage
10&11) not needed unless running poorly, easy diy.
12) all the best!

 

Agree with Bisco. Some of these items are warranted, maybe. But reading your list, they're hitting everything, some items very trivial/borderline, and all their prices are inflated. This seems like a place to avoid, if you can find an alternative. And yeah, the filters for example are an easy DIY, and only should be done as needed.

 

Can I get some feedback on the following list from my dealer of items I should get done?
1) is this price fair
2) should I do this myself (I am intermediate hobbyist mechanic, brakes, oil, etc)
3) do you recommend getting it done at all (e.g. is the water pump problem serious enough to fix for an older car).


1. 4 Wheel Alignment - Front toe is in $138 - Should be closer to $50-65 for a 4 wheel alignment max; call around to tire dealers and wheel shops; dealers usually cost the most, alignment is mainly for "straying" on highways and for preventing premture tire wear/uneven wear
2. Cabin filter w/ chi service - cabin filter is dirty & chi service will disinfect/deodorize ventilation system $125 - 15 dollar part, super simple DIY
3. Full tune up by time/mileage - replace spark plugs & pcv valve $350 - 40-50 for OEM parts and max 1.5 hrs of time, not too difficult but not super simple, PCV valve can be replaced without removing windshield cowl
4. Clean & adjust rear drum brakes - excessive brake dust/out of adjustment $119 - seems uncessary
5. Engine water pump seeping $550 - 40 dollar part, google water pump instructions on PriusChat for instructions
6. Hybrid transaxle service - drain & refill ATF - due by time/mileage $175 - 4 qts of ATF for max of $40 + new gaskets for drain and refill plugs; simpler than an oil change
7. Hybrid inverter coolant service - drain & refill inverter coolant - due by time/mileage $175 - 1 gallon of SLLC for $18 and a Lisle funnel and wrench, super simple DIY
8. Brake fluid exchange - brake fluid is dirty/discolored $183 - need Techstream for complete DIY flush procedure, partial solution is to suck out the reservoir fluid and replace with DOT3 fluid makes it $6-8, can buy techstream dongle off ebay for $30 for complete DIY
9. Engine coolant fluid exchange - due by time/mileage $195 - 2 gallons of SLCC for $35 and Lisle funnel, pretty simple and straightforward
10. Throttle body service - remove carbon build up from plate & housing $125 - wow! $7 can of TB/Carb cleaner and auto rag; super simple
11. Mass air flow sensor service - remove carbon/gum varnish from mass air flow sensor $125 - wow! $7 can of MAF cleaner; sample labor involved for TB service

all these services are described by PriusChat members, especially Patrick Wong.

 

Always do all MAINT. Yourself, especciqlly since you enjoy it. ALL those prices are outrageous! For example: Filters: Engine or AC, ridiculously easy to do and 5 minutes or so to do it. Spark plugs only a little trickier. Squirt a bit of penetrating oil in spark plug chamber and wait 15 minutes. This will allow the plugs to loosen easier. Every job is detailed in PriusChat. All are easy. Take your time, If you lift the car for a oil change be sure to use blocks. And stands. Buy a Hydraulic Jack, keep it for a lifetime. Any questions read or ask at. PRIUSCHAT.

 

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Nice job, writes123. And. Of course ALWAYS. Double. kudos. For. Pat.

 

All OK but this. Brake fluid doesn't really circulate in the critical areas where it would need the changing (ABS valves, calipers, lines, etc.). Only changing the fluid in the res. isn't really doing anything. Need to completely flush it.

Toyota says to change the brake fluid after three years, and then every 2 years after that.

Cheers.

 

that dealer wants to hose you bad. 550 for the water pump and then 195 for a coolant flush which gets done as part of the pump replacement anyway? Wth?
is the water pump seeping? easiest water pump r&r ever. diy

about alignments-- typical tire shops will "set the toe and let it go", what that means is since the front toe is an easy adjustment they'll do that but if anything else is off they'll ignore it unless they want to upsell a bolt kit install. dealer or reputable shop will do a correct complete alignment (may still need a bolt kit or shims, etc) but if your tires are not wearing correctly or it pulls, you do need an alignment.

brake flush is a good idea, brake fluid is hygroscopic (sic?)-- attracts moisture which corrodes all the expensive brake parts.

pull your drums off and knock the dust into a trash can. shoes are probably fine so put the drums back on and adjust the star wheel with a screw driver through the slot in the backing plate. don't over tighten.

I did develop a misfire almost exactly 100k after changing my spark plugs on the '04. the plugs were badly worn, so you might want to buy some plugs and slap em in now. easy diy.

 

when the choices are 1. pay dealer cost for complete brake flush 2. get Techstream and flush the brakes yourself 3. pay independent mechanic with techstream to flush brakes 4. swap out the reservoir fluid with fresh DOT3 or 4. do nothing, I would opt for a 5 minute procedure costing less than $6 vs pay dealer costs for a procedure I hope they do or spend a good 1hr or more traveling to my mechanic and watching him do the complete service. I have personally observed my car at the dealership before on a more expensive car and seen them so less than textbook things when performing services like ATF changes/flushes. Reference ErictheCarGuy when he explains brake fluid changes and what many of his colleagues would do when he worked at a Honda dealer service department. Sure, we all hope that every service department does what they are paid to do, but one has to be realistic at times as well. I understand that brake fluid doesn't circulate like ATF or engine oil but it can do some help. I would opt for the full flush but as Preventative Maintenance that is super simple I don't see any downside to fluid swap. Cost less than 6 bucks. If it does nothing you lost 6 bucks and 5 minutes. little downside to me.

Also, a post from BITOG,:
Yes. There is a lot of movement.
Some more than others, and an ABS system isn't certain.
At the shop we have performed and recommended turkey baster type flushes for people with economic restrictions. It usually helps or fixes some problems, and is certainly good maintenance.
My latest experience was a Chevy work truck. We had the owner suck out his master cyl and clean it, then refill with fresh fluid every couple of days. It would get black rapidly, then started to clear up, and his rear brakes started working properly again.
Of course bleeding the system is faster and better. But we have to deal with people with no money and broken off rusted bleeders.
I turkey baster my personal vehicles as a regular maintenance procedure
-quick and clean for PS and brakes.

You can do as you wish. I just would rather not spend $183 bucks on a brake flush at a stealership service dept.

BTW, I have a techstream at home along with instructions, I just haven't gotten around to jacking up the car, pulling the wheels off, breaking open the bleeders, hooking up the laptop and flushing out the brakes. But give me a turkey baster , or in my case a small tubing and syringe, I'll replace the reservoir fluid in less than 5 minutes with fresh fluid with minimal effort.

 

hello? o/p? it's been a week?

 

Agreed. I just had to replace my brake actuator. They do seem to be a little prone to failure. The service history on my vehicle prior to my ownership, only showed one fluid change. As you may know, brake fluid is hydroscopic (attracts moisture). Moisture inside components causes corrosion and possible failure. I don't know if my actuator failed due to this or not, but a $1660 part with $1000 install, I wouldn't risk it and have someone who knows what they are doing perform a full flush. There are far more components to our brake system for fluid to accumulate than the average vehicle - and a lot more components to go bad. Just don't pay $183 for it. I bought the Techstream myself and had an initial flush done in 30 minutes.

 

I own a repair shop (hybrid specialty for Toyota and Honda). I'm also a member of iATN, and SAE. My oldest son is a tech for Lexus of Kanagawa (Tokyo). There are shops with integrity, and shops without... If the dealer sucks, and you've seen them doing shady things, I suggest looking for a shop that can be trusted. They are out there. Mine is one, but we're on the other side of the world. I know what you're saying about dealers...the system in the US created this problem, and it's discussed ad infinitum behind the curtains. Did you know that in 45 states, or so, anyone can go in and get a repair facility license? There are only two states I know of that require any kind of license to repair motor vehicles. When you have a population that's willing to let anyone work on their car as long as it's cheap... People always want to blame shady mechanics, but you get what you pay for. Know why that oil change is so cheap? It's a loss-leader to get you in and sell you stuff...

You're supposed to change the fluid in a Toyota Hybrid after three years, and then every two thereafter. The reason for this is two-fold; moisture is absorbed into the fluid, lowering the boiling point, and degradation of corrosion inhibiting additives. The "downside to you" (and those who will buy the car later in it's life) is that you are neglecting the most important system in the car by not doing the procedure properly if you're supplementing the partial change for an actual change. Changing the fluid in the master reservoir is not changing the fluid in the places it needs to be changed.

Moisture: The fluid in the calipers never circulates. This is where the brakes get hot. This is where the fluid boils if the moisture content is too high. The piston in the caliper moves back and forth, and over the course of several years, moisture is drawn in. If you've ever seen the sludge that accumulates in there... A moisture test of the fluid in the master reservoir does not reflect the moisture content in this area, and it's why the manufacturers don't recommend testing the fluid for moisture. They give a time-based interval, and they don't just throw out an arbitrary number. It's acquired through testing.

Corrosion: Over the years, I've been able to tear down and inspect many, many failed ABS units. Most had pitting and plating on the valves, deposit accumulation from this corrosion, etc. Changing the fluid would have prevented this. It's especially troublesome in the hydroboost systems like what's used in the Prius. Toyota has been using this type of system since around 1996, or so. Cars with a maintained brake system just keep on working.

If someone can do DIY, good for them, and more power to them. However, they need to be doing it correctly. I do plenty of pro bono work for people who are having financial difficulties. Sometimes I even supply the parts. That would never happen for someone driving a newer Prius.

Do what you want with your car, but I don't think it's right to tell people on a public forum that it's acceptable to neglect proper maintenance because of the cost... No one, financially strapped or otherwise, has a right to drive a car with a neglected brake system on a public motorway. My $0.02

Cheers.