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V-belt replacement. Any tips on getting the right tension.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by uart, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    After having this Prius for 4.5 years and 140,000 km of trouble free driving, I've had to do virtually nothing to it apart from regular oil changes (and one ATF change and a couple of air filters). (y)

    But now it's just about to hit 200,000 km so I figure it's due for a few other routine maintenance items like v-belt and spark plugs (along with the regular oil change and another ATF change).

    For the v-belt, I'm planning on just removing the air intake hose and dropping it down and over the pulleys from above. I think I can avoid removing the splash guards etc and going in from underneath, but I know that doing this way will be fairly tight. I'm just not sure how easy it will be to get a good feel for the belt tension. Does anyone have any tips for getting the correct tension on the new belt?
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    My tip is that you need to exert ~22 lbs pressure on the belt at the longest run between the crankshaft and idler pulleys, and strive for 0.4" displacement.

    You may also want to replace the PCV valve while you are at it. With North American cars, the engine wiring harness that runs over the valve cover has to be removed for access, and the PCV valve is sticking out of the valve cover, nearest to the inverter. Please let us know if you can actually see the PCV valve on your engine without taking the wiring harness off.

    If so, please take some photos of your engine compartment and post as I would like to see whether there are any other differences that become apparent.
     
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  3. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Thanks Patrick, those were the numbers I was looking for. So that will be close enough 1cm at 10 kg in metric. I've got a spring pull gauge that can measure 10 kg nicely, but I don't know if I'll be able to fit it in there. If not I'll just use the gauge to practice pushing 10 kg with my thumb beforehand, and then just do it be feel.
     
  4. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Patrick. What exact belt tension checker tool did you use? I've looked on Amazon and can't find anything that resembles the recommended belt tension tools (Benso BTG-20 or Borroughs BT-33-73F).

    Thanks.
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I used a finger of my hand and estimated the required force to deflect the belt - not a belt tension tool.
     
  6. Speedster Johnny

    Speedster Johnny Junior Member

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    What is the procedure for replacing the V-belt? My service adviser mentioned that there were some cracks starting to appear in it and I should replace it soon. Is this a difficult procedure or should I leave it to the pros.
    Thanks, Hoss
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Inspect the engine coolant pump for coolant seepage. If you see any pinkish deposits on the inside of the pump pulley or upon the air conditioner compressor, then plan to replace that pump.
    2. To replace the serpentine drive belt, first disconnect the hose leading to the air cleaner housing, for access. Loosen the coaxial nut on the idler pulley. You will need a quality 14 mm 6-point socket, a cheater bar, and an extension for that bar to make loosening that nut effortless. Be careful - some posters have reported damaging that nut which makes it very difficult to remove. My belief is that improper/cheap tools were used. Do not use a cheap 12-point socket.
    3. After that nut is loosened, then you can lower the idler pulley by turning the bolt that moves the pulley up and down.
    4. Once the pulley is lowered, you can remove the serpentine drive belt. Before you do that though, look at the belt carefully so you can see how the outside surface contacts the engine coolant pump pulley.
    5. It is possible to install the new belt from the top of the car. Use your fingers to feel around to make sure the belt is properly seated on the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to pull the idler pulley back up. Press on the longest length to gauge belt deflection. The idea is to exert 22 lbs force and have the belt deflect 0.4". Then tighten the coaxial nut on the idler pulley to lock it in place, the spec is 30 ft.-lb.
    6. See my thread here: How to replace engine coolant pump and thermostat | PriusChat
     
  8. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    It's a pretty easy job. I wrote a bit of a guide (with pictures) when I changed mine at 200,000 km. See: V-belt and plugs, 200,000 km maintenance. (pictures) | PriusChat

    Just one thing to watch out for. The bolt that secures the idler pulley (see bolt labelled "B" in my above linked thread) tends to be fairly hard to undo. Several people here have reported rounding off that bolt and making quite a mess of it, turning an easy job into something really difficult. Just make sure you have a decent quality socket set and breaker bar (may need an extender or piece of pipe) to get this one lose.
     
  9. Cadenza

    Cadenza Member

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    uart -

    How old was the belt in terms of year & km? Did you replace the idler-pulley too?
     
  10. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    I did it in January this year, which makes it 9 years and 200,000 km.

    The idler pulley still felt like it was turning smoothly enough, so I didn't replace it. I also looked at the water pump (externally) and it seemed ok too. So in the end all I did was the belt itself.

    BTW. I did exactly the same time/mileage interval on the OEM sparkplugs too. It's amazing how low maintenance this car is when everything is going well (crosses fingers and prays for no transaxle or other major hybrid component fail).
     
  11. Cadenza

    Cadenza Member

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    Yeah, the Prius ICE (Atkinson cycle) is definitely low-strung. My '05 has 10k more than yours so I'm thinking about replacing the factory issued plugs & PCV but the pix I've seen here show they have much less build-up than those from the Otto cycle engines. Current MPG is ~50 mpg and topping off engine oil is not necessary between changes.
     
  12. Tiger-Heli

    Tiger-Heli Junior Member

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    Great guide - but, why are you even bothering with bolt B? - it would seem like you could just loosen bolt C enough to take the tension off and remove the belt - on all my other cars, I've never had to loosen a pulley belt unless I was changing the particular pulley (which isn't a bad idea, but I didn't think you were).

    I can't post links - if you look on Amazon, the OTC 6673 should be roughly equivalent to the Burroughs BT-33-73F, but it's around $100 and might be tough to fit in the available space. I would recommend looking at a Kriket gauge (also on Amazon for around $15) - they make them for V-belts and ribbed belts, the Dayco V-belt is 93865, but Gates and other companies make them also. Get the correct style, although it probably isn't critical.
     
  13. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    That bolt marked "B" locks the pulley firmly into place. Bolt "C" cannot adjust the tension on the belt unless bolt "B" is first loosened.
     
  14. Tiger-Heli

    Tiger-Heli Junior Member

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    Makes sense looking at the pictures carefully - again, great job on the write-up and thanks!