I used the forums to find most of the info for my build however it was all over the place so I am going to put it all together. In this install I only cut four wires of the factory harness and they were the ones attached to the original speakers so this is great if you don't want to hack up your car Parts used *Metra 95-8239B dash kit *Metra 70-1761 wiring harness *Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter *Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control interface *Axxess AX-TOY28SWC steering wheel control adapter *Axxess AX-USB-35EXT USB and aux port *Pioneer AVH-X2600BT head unit *Alpine MRV-F300 amp *Infinity PR6502IS 6.5 inch two way speakers (rear) *Infinity PR6500CS component speakers (front) To install the speakers in the rear what I did is unscrewed and popped off the door panels, took a drill and removed the rivets holding in the speakers. Once the speakers were out I took a pair of dikes (wire snipers) and cut all of the plastic arms as close as possible to the plastic wall on the back side of the speakers and clipped the two wires inside the speaker than took a razor blade and cut the paper cone out as close as I could to the plastic housing. Now simply screw the new speaker into the old plastic housing, attach factory wires through the door and screw it to the door with large stainless screws. For the front you do the same as rear except for the tweaters. For the tweaters unscrew the tweaters and mount. Take a hack saw and cut off the factory tweaters right behind where in goes from the tweaters to the smaller square shaft. Now appoxy the new tweaters to the mount. For the crossover block I used command poster strips and mounted it to the door. Wire it all up and put the door skin back on. The amp and head unit was very simple. Pop off all of the plastics on the dash unscrew the factory head unit unplug it. Take all of the adapters and plug them in. Take 8 5.5foot lengths of speaker wire and one length of wire for the amp turn on (make sure to label each wire from radio to amp and from amp to speakers and what speaker like right front etc...) Take a roll of electrical tape and tape the wires up into a nice neat roll, run it down the dash under the center console and out under the passenger seat wire up the amp, plug it all in put the dash back together and you are set.
very nice. where did you mount the amp? i dont think i read that part. did you do any type of sound dampening or deadening?
The amp fits perfectly under the passenger seat you can't see it from the side front or back unless you have the seat all the way forward, and at that point you can only see the edge. I didn't screw it down because there is a little valley it fits right in no movement. I am going to do eastwood Thermo-Coustic deadening next month when I move back to oregon, even without sound deadening and the amp gain at less than half way it sounds amazing!!
If you get all the parts I listed everything works except the factory mic however I ran the one that comes with the new head unit in the dash and out on top steering wheel
Is there any delay in boot time to turn on display? I'm planning to park a Infinity BassLink sub in the rear passenger foot well. BassLink is bulky sized but hits pretty hard for 10"...
The head unit turns right on just like stock, the only difference is it takes a few seconds longer for the Bluetooth from my phone to hook up
Do you have an Iphone? I picked up a Samsung Note 3 w/ KitKat Android OS, coming from iphones, and found out that aftermarket HUs do not recognize Pandora app when connected via USB w/ Android... only via blue tooth. .. from my experience you do lose a lot of SQ fidelity w/o USB connection. Though Android bluetooth from this phone seems to be of higher quality.... still beats stock HU by far...
I have a droid maxx and I only use with Bluetooth, the Pandora app works just fine. I don't notice any SQ loss from Bluetooth over USB