2007 prius remote lock issues and hv battery issues

Maybe just key battery or key itself and has to do with key temperature?

Recall was for inverter water pump and leaking pump is probably engine water pump.

 

Does your car have the Smart Key System?
Are you locking with the remote button or the small square black rubber button on the front door handles?

If you have a Digital Voltage Meter (DVM), or access to one, check the voltage of the battery directly to get a true reading. Maybe the battery is at 2.85V, enough to still power the LED, and sporadically lock/unlock the car.

Have you tried using the second remote that came with the car?

Do you have the Warranty book that originally came w/ the car?

Have you tried Toyota Warranty Overview
According to Toyota-Australia, HV battery warranty is 8years/160,000 KM. Your model year could be different?

The USA Toyota dealerships will only replace a HV Battery when HV Battery specific codes are present. You will know codes are present when you see the red triangle of death and other dash warning lights. You can always go to your local dealership and pay for a diagnostic test.

Vlade3 is correct. But to be sure, ask your mechanic which water pump: engine or inverter?

The part that Toyota replaced would come with a warranty (months/kilometer). Look at the invoice you were given, it will be stated clearly.
In the US, the dealership service invoice states the warranty period, 12months/12,000 miles. Unless the replaced part is covered by the cars longer remaining warranty.

Have you shopped around for this replacement part? Maybe you might be able to find it for < $150?

The search function w/in Prius Chat is your friend. Type: "trunk hatch rubber"
Only you can determine if replacement is something you can do.
Searching other words will reveal other threads and their repair (search: "hatch opening switch").

 

maybe your 12 volt is taking the mickey.

 

Have you checked the 12V battery voltage, at the terminals, w/ a good DVM?

Have you checked the 3V Lithium coin battery in both remotes? A new battery should measure 3.27 or 3.28V, no load.

Look at page 2 of the Energizer product data sheet for the CR2032 battery (same battery in your remote). Look at what happens to the voltage under a 100 Ohm load at a one second pulse (~ 2.9V), and at a two second pulse (~2.83V). If your battery measures 3.0V, no load, depressing any button on the remote, is putting a load on this battery, decreasing the voltage further. At times, this voltage drop may or may not be sufficient enough for the remote to send out a remote lock/unlock/panic signal to the car, but is still sufficient for the LED to light up. This is the likely scenario.

I will speculate that the batteries in both remotes are original: 7 years old. Come one, batteries don't last forever. Since it seems you have not measured the remote battery voltage, do yourself a favor and just change the battery in each remote. CR2032 batteries should be cheap, and readily available.

If the problem still exists, now you have other variables to eliminate:

• the button on the remote circuit board is going bad, making intermittent connection to send out a remote signal.
• the remote has been damaged by water.
• the receiver in the car is going bad.
• powerful radio interference by a jammer or other devices, operating at the same or similar frequency of the remote.