New hybrid battery

The torques on the modules are set for 48 in-lbs (this is only 4 ft-lbs!!!) so you will need something quite small/sensitive for torquing them to spec. When I did mine I used my Milwaukee cordless drill (Milwaukee 2601-20) which had a dial clutch setting on it and I verified how much torque it took to get off one of the nuts from a untouched module. Then I experimented with an old module to make sure I got the torque set right. I think I stopped around #3 but verify for yourself since these are not calibrated tools by any means. Not exactly by the book, but it worked great and it was alot faster to assemble/disassemble the battery packs that way.

 

I wouldn't recommend taking a chance without a torque wrench. Its just too easy to over torque something and break it.

 

Hard to fault being careful, but perhaps the impact wrench can be set to clearly less than needed so that the final torque is done manually.

 

This must be a 3rd generation module as the decoding method Sagebrush shared doesn't apply to your serial number.

 

Leaving them too loose is just as bad as of overtightening them. If they come undone arcing can occur or simply loss of connection. Take the time to buy a simple torque wrench and do it right. It is safer and will keep you from unexpected error messages.

 

I'll see if I can verify how close I really got to the proper torque specs next time as I now have a Neiko 1/4-inch Drive Torque Screwdriver which does 10-50 Inch-Lbs (I bought it because I have aluminum wiring in my house which needs attention) but I'm quite confident the pack will perform flawlessly as assembled until I have a need to pull it out again. That being said I don't advocate this method for everyone since as was pointed out there are potential issues with both over and under torquing the nuts on the modules.

Just to note I used a drill with a clutch, not an impact driver (one of those could have easily snaped off a module stud while tightening)

 

Thanks for clarifying that for people. Another tip is to gently spin the nuts on a few threads by hand before using any power tools. It's easy to accidentally crossthread them with a fast spinning drill otherwise.

 

Great tip.......I did the same thing, nuts were all started by hand and then I just went down the line with the drill and tightened each one afterwards (the clutch would let go when the torque exceeded the clutch pressure). Key in my case was to set the torque on the drill in reverse (increase clutch pressure until the nut will back off) on a module that has nuts torqued by the factory. This method should reasonably closely replicate whatever torque specs were set from the factory when tightening them again. It's not perfect, but should be close enough to not cause any serious problems from significant under/over torquing as noted above.

 

1. The clicking is from the system main relays and is normal. When you reinstall all of the hatch lining the noise should be greatly diminished.
2. If by "serviced" you mean the engine oil and oil filter were replaced, then you don't have to worry about servicing again, until you have driven 5K miles or whatever normal oil change interval you observe.

Congrats on successfully replacing the traction battery.

 

DTC P3030 means that one of the voltage sense wires connecting the battery module pairs to the traction battery ECU has broken, or the traction battery ECU itself has failed.

Since P3013 also appeared, which points to battery module pair #3, check very closely the sense wire connected to the sixth battery module.

 

Look for cracks in the metal of the wire connector where the wire connector is crimped onto the wire itself. Often the metal fatigues/corroded and breaks between the crimped part of the connector and the flat eyelet part of the connector.

You can probe it aggressively with a small wooden dowel to see if any cracks are evident.

Another possibility is if the nut is improperly tightened. Too loose or overtightened/stripped is bad. Sometimes people forget to tighten them at all.

Lastly you can check the sense wires themselves end to end with a continuity tester. You probably have that on your multimeter.

 

This gives you an idea of what P03030 is all about (see link below) but if you're lucky it was just one of the nuts that came loose (if so make sure to properly torque them all again just to be sure it won't happen again). If it's one of the ring terminals that broke, make sure to do a proper repair on it.

Luscious Garage | Blog | Toyota Prius code P3030 “High Voltage Line Snapped”

 

Hello Ericbecky,
Do you have 2008 or 2009 modules that are in good shape ? I need 11 of those to rebuild my 01 hv battery.
And one more thing: What is the voltage range of a strong and healthy Gen 2 module ?
Thanks,
Eddy2014

 

Eddy, it's not static voltage that indicates a healthy module from a bad one. The 2 things you want to check are capacity and voltage drop under load (ie the battery's internal resistance). Capacity is checked with an RC charger and voltage drop is checked via a load test (check voltage first, then use both the high/low beam from a headlight and connect it to the battery for 60 seconds, then note final voltage, subtract the two and that is your voltage drop........all modules should be very close in order not to throw a code). Make sure you test both the ones in your pack and the ones you are using as spares so you know they will work well together. Failure to do this will often result in having to do it again (properly) later.

 

Thanks very much for your very useful feedback.
I will send you another message this evening when I return home from work.
Eddy2014.