I have a 2010 that is going to need some attention to its traction batt soon. For a couple of reasons I'm looking for a junkyard battery: 1) so I can take my time rebuilding the "other" battery 2) So there is minimal down time for the vehicle & a third reason 3) To end up with a battery pack made up of newer cells with fewer miles on them. From my research: The 2010 & 2011 Prius (through Oct 2010) appear to be the same. 2011 & newer Prius packs (from Nov 2010 to present) appear to be the same. Also the Lexus ct200h (introduced in 2011) may use the same pack as the newer Prius. I believe all the above traction batt packs utilize the same physical battery modules. So, at the worst case, I could swap-out all 28 modules from a newer pack into my OEM battery. G9280-47080 is the part/number of my 2010 Prius traction battery. So here are a few specific questions: Q1) Are all the G3 Prius & Lexus ct200h individual battery modules (28 modules/pack) interchangeable? Q2) What is the difference between the early (through Oct 2010) packs & the later (from Nov 2010) packs? Q3) How close are the Prius & ct200h packs? Is it more than mounting hardware? & maybe a battery controller? Trying to find out my options ahead of time Thanks Kim
Might be a bit premature to worry about a 2010 battery pack. If you get one and not use it for 5 years, it will just go bad.
You're right - I can name a few premature items... That block_6 always has the minimum voltage when the traction batt gets below 40% SOC The P0A90 pending code that keeps coming back when the traction batt gets to a very low SOC The engine that continues to run when the batt is 60% charged & the vehicle is stopped at a traffic light ...or else the traction battery may be starting to have problems.
This one sounds more like you need a new 12v battery. How many miles are on your prius out of curiosity, i'm pushing 90k on my 2011. But i'm not worried about having a spare battery as i have another vehicle.
P0A90 is "Drive Motor A Performance". That codes points more to an MG or Inverter failure than a battery. Do you have the info code that comes with it or any other codes? Do you have a snapshot that would show the 12 volt battery's voltage when codes are thrown? That would help rule out a failing auxiliary battery. FYI, this type of diagnostics might be best left to a professional. You'll be pulling the inverter cover off to check connections as you get into it - something most layperson may want to avoid - if not replacing the transaxle. Don't mean to scare you, just don't want you to get hurt or make it overly expensive.
There is an 8 year warranty on the traction battery, at least in Australia but I thought it was world wide. Therefore take it to your Toyota dealer
Have you had the EOE Safety Recall completed that modifies the software that is intended to help prevent failure of the Inverter Power Module ? The P0A90 code could be pointing to this Inverter Power Module.
It always amazes me how people self diagnose these codes. These codes need to be checked by a toyota machine as there are many subsets to the main code. Traction battery should not be going bad unless you are pushing 150k plus miles. I agree with one of the previous posters that it is more likely a 12v battery or a MG2/inverter issue. Since the 2010 had a redesigned inverter a recall was performed to the software so it wouldn't prematurely burn out. That part is covered under Toyota's extended warranty until 2025 with unlimited mileage. Do not always assume it is the battery pack. Voltages of the cells will fluctuate under use and unless the pack has been aggressively used and the car climbs a lot of mountains and has always been at a 100% state of charge for extended periods I do not think it would be a battery pack issue
While I agree with most of your statements above the battery is never at 100% state of charge. The maximum is about 81%, and this is not held as the system rapidly brings it down to below 80%. John (Britprius)
