first DIY oil change 2012 PIP

If you have to replace the plastic cover, just the part will cost about $265.00 so treat it tenderly.

 

top tip between min and max on the engine dipstick is 700ml, keep this in mind when topping up (sorry for using metric for those still in the last century)

 

23.67 fluid ounces. A touch less than 3 cups.

 

bet you still drink your beer in pints though.

 

They seem to be 20% small.

 

Is my memory failing again ? I thought the Prius oil wrench is 64 mm ?

I admit that 65 and 64 mm sound about the same to me, but I remember complaints that generic 65 mm wrenches did not work well.

 

Some are marked 64, while other marked 65 mm, will fit. The only real way to know is to try it on a filter cap.

While quite expensive, this "OFFICIAL" Toyota factor service tool is the only one that is "guaranteed" to fit.

Toyota - OIL FILTER WRENCH Part Number: 09228-06500-02

And, it pushes the "locking tabs" out of the way automatically. The Assenmacher TOY640 and many others do not.

I do NOT see Toyota changing the size or design for many years.

I've used mine twice, and I think it is worth it.

 

A plain steel socket works fine too. It covers the 14 faces to maybe 1/2" depth, doesn't have the extra extension and slots, does not seem to need them. Seriously, that locking tab might as well not be there, never holds things up for me. The Toyota socket works fine, to be sure, but it's not a necessity. This is Honda socket, the same 64mm inside dim., 14 face:

 

I would search this site for the oil filter removal tool. Do not buy the cheap plastic one, but the better metal one.

Oil is cheapest at WalMart.

There is a plastic cover for the engine under the car. Getting to the oil filter requires removing some clips which are easy.

The most dangerous thing is getting the o ring in the correct place. There is a grove in the plastic oil filter cap about 1/8 inch up from the base. This is where the O ring goes. Make sure you thoroughly inspect where it is on the part before you remove it. If you screw this up, all the oil from your car will instantaneously drain onto your garage floor and you will / might do damage to your engine.

Also, there is a metal clip on the plastic cover for the filter that needs to be moved out of the way so you can unscrew it. Do not forget to do this.

This all said, I love to do my own oil changes and I used to do it on my 2012....and when my 2014 goes out of regular free service I will do it on it too.

 

Being the worry wart that I am, I purchased an additional oil filter cap as a spare. If you break the original one, you're "dead in the water."

 

Same.

John1701a.com also has a very good tutorial

 

I found that I had to Jack the car to change the oil, which is a real pain. Jack to get under, then lower to make sure it drains out, then Jack to replace drain plug and filter. Lower, add oil.

Just a real pain. Especially with the plastic cover. I can spend $25 for oil plus a filter, or just give the dealer $60. The dealer wins.

 

I bought this wrench when my 2012 PiP ran out of its free tune-ups, after trying cheapies. Its' a great investment in frustration levels saved for the owner. Additionally, reinforcing the oil flap hinge with a short metal piano hinge (another thread here - thanks Rude person's!) saves a lot of time as well for future oil changes.

 

It's totally unnecessary to lower the car "to make sure it drains out".

 

If the car is at an angle, oil can remain in the engine. Maybe you're right and it doesn't matter, but if I want to be sure, I lower the car and jack it back up. It's not just that... I've done plenty of oil changes, and the hassle isn't worth it to save $25 in labor.

 

I have always changed the oil on conventional cars. When I bought a Prius and Avalon Hybrid, I quit. I have the dealer do it and it only has to be done every 10,000 miles. Not worth the hassle to me.

 

I found these Canadian made Scepter ramps to be the best deal for the price.

They are much better than Rhino ramps, either the old or the new nesting style.

I own the more expensive Race Ramps, but I like the Scepters for oil and transaxle fluid changes. They raise the car an inch lower than Race Ramps, but that is a plus, because the edge of oil change door actually self "locks" on the driveway by friction and out of he way. There is still enough room to access the oil filter cap.

Since the oil plug on the pan tilts downward away from the ramps, all the oil drains out of the pan naturally.

I bought a piano hinge for the oil change door and had some left over, so I made several kits to share my good fortune with other for basically my cost. To make more for commercial sale would cost a lot more.

 

What I really want is a lift for the whole car, but they're way too expensive.

 

I set the car on 4 jacks so that I can rotate tyres while the oil is draining.
The car really does lend itself to multiple maintenance items at one time; it just takes a little planning

I work on my car once a year (10k miles), and perform the following 4 of every 5 years:

1. Cabin and Engine filter checks, replacement if needed
2. Oil exchange, oil filter exchange
3. Tyres rotated
4. One gallon (partial) Engine coolant exchange
5. CV boot cleaning and spray with silicone

Every 5th year, the above is done and in addition

• Brake pins are lubed, pads and rotors are checked
• Inverter coolant exchanged
• ATF
• Brake fluid check for pH, water and copper; dealer flush if required
• MAF and throttle plate/body cleaning

At 10 years, the above is performed and in addition

• Spark plugs
• PCV
• Front struts if needed, or if I am in the mood

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So nine years out of ten, maintenance amounts to a couple of hours one time a year. Year ten takes all day because of my unfamiliarity with struts.