How long does the ICE water pump's generally last?

now would probably be a good time.

 

Check to see if there is any pinkish whitish build up on the pump. If you see some, then it's probably leaking already. If you don't see anything leaking then I wouldn't replace it. You should however replace the belt as that would need replacement from age.

 

I agree that if you don't see any coolant seepage on the pump pulley interior or deposited upon the air conditioner compressor housing, then no worries. That pump will give you plenty of warning before it fails.

I also agree that the serpentine drive belt should be replaced now if that had not previously been changed out.

 

I believe mine lasted 150k. And I did see the pinkish stuff. Buy OEM for this part. I got an aftermarket, "like OEM," that only lasted 70k.

 

I agree on 150 k miles would be a likely life span of a pump. At all my previous cars ( Tercel, Legacy, Corolla) I had to do it around 150 k mark

Alex

 

Mine only lasted 100k km (60k miles); first suspected it when I had to periodically top up the coolant, and then it started making a racket. Grab the pulley and try to move it laterally....if there's play, replace it. $55 for the pump, $40 for replacement coolant from Toyota, hour wrench time, an hour bleed.

Faz

 

I would leave it alone so long as the coolant level and the pump itself are checked regularly. As written above, it will give plenty of warning.

 

You can get it on amazon for the same price, and it'll come with a proper receipt and warranty.

 

If you decide (or have to) replace it, just don't put too much tension on the belt. Too much tension destroys the pump earlier. Besides, that belt has very little load on it.

 

Changed mine last week on the 2005 at 209,000 miles - due to "weeping" (slight pink crusty deposits).

 

Pump and the radiator will last longer if you change the coolant at the minimum every year at least. Fluid if not changed tends to get acidic and aluminum salts which is very abrasive to the pump. A thorough change of the ICE coolant is painful though as coupled with the Thermos tends to airlock quite easily and hard to get the air out even with a vac unless you jump out power to the thermos and cycle it.

Easiest way to maintain the coolant is very simple just dump the rad's content a couple of times a year. Use Toyota SLLC . You will not incur airlock and it does get quite a bit of the coolant out. Just take the cap off and open up the petcock and vent. Pour the used contents down the drain.

 

I installed my 3rd one yesterday, at 99k miles on our 2006. First one I replaced 3 ½ years ago, 66k miles. Replaced with Napa Truflow at that time. They honored the warranty, but I'm irritated that the part didn't last. I stay away from autozone and advanced auto - any parts with electronics or bearings. But I figured Napa would be quality. Not so I guess. I'm hoping this one lasts longer, but if not, I'll get OEM next time. I'm getting good at it though!

Neither completely failed, but I saw the pink crusty around the bearing, and the weep hole was leaking. Probably could have run it longer, but that annoys me.

 

May want to consider grouping your maintenance items purchase to get free shipping from Camelback Toyota in AZ; need to spend $150+ though.
A genuine OEM replacement water pump was $54.42, no tax.

ebay pump, $49, likely no tax. Amazon, $44.58 + $3.88 (tax 8.7%) = $48.49
Small $5-$6 price difference, but you'll get a replacement quality part, that should give you lots of miles again, as you and many others have experienced.

 

Sorry Ed, but I've been thinking about this last statement for a couple of days now. I finally decided to say something, not meaning to start any arguments hopefully. It would not be very environmentally friendly to dispose of used antifreeze in this manner. I am assuming that the "drain" would lead to a municipal sewage system. I'm not a tree-hugger or anything, but I do try to reduce my personal impact on an already overburdened natural environment.

For the OP, I may have replaced my ICE coolant pump a little early, at 72K, based on some brief leakage. I figured all coolant pumps are created equal and once coolant has breached the internal seal it would wash out the grease in the bearing and lead to accelerated failure. From other threads on this subject it appears this sometimes isn't true. The pump will spit out some coolant from time to time without deleterious effects. The key I think is continuous and visible leakage. I didn't go with an OEM pump body either. Got one at Autozone. So far I have 110K on it without any further leakage.

 

That's where your supposed to put it. Safest especially for animals. Its recycled.