Just want to find out if you're experiencing a lot of freeplay with the smaller 1 1/4" square Curt hitch when you attach everything on. If so, how did you fix it? I'm tempted to stick a bit of rag in the hitch to tighten it up which is only used for bike rack only.
I believe Curt requires one to use a stabilizing strap on all 1.25" hitches whenever you are using a bike rack: Curt Trailer Hitch Support Strap - Bike Rack Strap with Cambuckle Curt Accessories and Parts 18050 This is one reason why I went with the Draw-Tie/Hidden Hitch model.
I'm sorry.. but Wth??? Then how they even claim the 1 1/4" can tow 2000lb with that much freeplay? I didn't have much of a choice since only one shop was willing to ship down this part of the world. It seems a rag in a hole it may have to be if that's the case.
Doesn't your bike rack tighten the bolt to the hitch? Or is it just one of those your put through the hole and a pin on the other side? All my hitch mount bike rack have the bolt style with a nut to secure it.
This too. Do you have an anti-rattle hitch pin? I had to get one for mine, but it was never loose in the way that you described. iPhone ?
It's a pin you stick into the hole across the receiver and the tongue secured with a split pin. Am never happy with that sort of arrangement myself. I'll look for an anti rattle pin and hopefully it will 1) fit because the US have smaller sizings for towing bits than Australia... there's no such thing as 1.25" hitches here and 2) solve the problem. Thanks for the suggestion.
My bike rack as well as most, have an anti rattle bolt usually where the pin goes. Tighten it down with a wrench and slap on the lock.
I have a Saris bike rack, which has a bolt from the side that cinches the rack against the inside of the receiver (restrains the x and z-axis rotation). This still allows the rack to rotate a bit around the bolt's y-axis. Before installing the hitch I drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole on the top, so I can eliminate rotation about the y-axis with a short bolt. If your hitch is already installed, you could try something like this on the car from the bottom, but that would probably be kind of tough.
Thanks. I did a DIY job of wrapping the hitch with a small section of a bike tyre tube and jamming the tongue inside. It's somewhat stop the excessive movements but I know I'll need to bolt them down. $50 on Ebay delivery down here for the Curt version seems pretty excessive for a bolt and nut I know I could get for $5. Btw, there is no nut welded on the inside of the tongue.
Do others have this problem with the curt? From looks alone the draw tie looks to better built but photos can lie. Any opinions of curt vs drawtie?
