This is the backup key fob, as the original key fob was lost. Until recently, it would work to unlock the doors and did not need to be inserted into the dashboard. Now, the door needs to be unlocked with the mechanical key and the car won't start unless the key is inserted into the dashboard. I have replaced the battery in the key fob and it blinks red when buttons are pressed, but still won't work remotely. I have also checked the 12V battery using instructions I found in this forum and it appears to be fully charged. And, I have checked the button under the steering wheel and it is out which is supposed to be the on position. Just in case, I also tried pushing it in. So, what are the next things to check? Any suggestions? I have read several of the threads in this forum but it seems to usually end up being the fob battery, the button under the steering wheel, or the 12V battery.
Are you absolutely sure this key worked perfectly at some point? All functions worked? You did mention it's not the original.
The car would start without the fob being inserted and the mechanical key wasn't needed to unlock the door. I'm pretty sure the buttons worked, as well, but not positive.
I didn't buy this key fob, I believe it came with the car. Wouldn't the car have come with 2 of them? And, I'm not sure if it's the original battery (I assume it's not), as when I looked at the voltage on the display, as described in another thread, the voltage looked fine.
The voltage was 12.5 without load and 12.2 with load. If a button were stuck wouldn't the red light stay on our wouldn't it not go on at all when a button is pressed?
Thank you everyone for your help so far. I was told that the fob was the backup, but I think that must be incorrect as the Toyota logo is silver and it used to work to open the doors and start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. None of the keys seem to be stuck down and the light flashes red when a button is pressed. Anything else that I should check? The sks button is sticking out and the fob has a new Duracell 2032 in it. I don't know if it will help, but I have an OBD2 unit I can use.
i'm not sure that's a good battery voltage, did you confirm it on another thread? sounds a little low. i don't know if the red light would stay on or not, you'd have to hold a button down. but if they don't look depressed, they probably aren't. i wish i could be of more help, hopefully someone with more knowledge will jump in. not sure what you mean by back up. the car when new comes with 2 fobs that are exactly the same. some people only use one and put the other away, calling it the 'backup'.
just read in another thread to check the 'spring' that pushes the battery tight inside the fob. but if the red light is coming on, it's probably making contact.
You responses seem to indicate you are not the owner of the car or you've been the owner for a very short time. "You've been told". From what you are describing, if you are not the original owner and this Fob was given to you as a "backup fob". It may not be the correct fob for the car, it's just a USED REPLACEMENT. It can be programmed to start the car but it cannot be programmed for SKS functions or to lock/unlock your doors. My first reply to you was to clarify if all the functions worked at one time, your reply was a bit vague in also you think it all worked but wasn't quite sure. If even after a new battery and this thing still doesn't work, it may be the electronic part of the FOB is no longer functional, only will work to start the car because the immobolizer part of the FOB doesn't require a battery to work.