Had what appeared to be a bad cell in a one year old Optima battery. Changed it out and cleared the codes that it had brought about. I now have no codes being thrown, however once the key fob is brought to the door sensor (any) I get about 5 beeps, and no ability to open the door locks (key only) as well as no ability to open the rear hatch. The inside door unlock/lock switch is non functional as well. Any clues sure would be helpful, thank you in advance.
Can the car be made READY and driven? If the car cannot be made READY, can you turn on the headlights? If yes, how bright are they?
Patrick, The car is totally drivable with the exception of not being able to open the rear hatch as well as electrically lock/unlock the doors.
Check the following list of fuses: 25A DOOR 15A DOME 7.5A ECU-IG "Check" means that you use an ohmmeter to verify continuity of each fuse. Do not rely upon visual inspection. DOME is in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter, in the engine compartment. DOOR and ECU-IG are in the fuse box below the instrument panel, driver's side.
All three fuses have continuity. I get about five beeps when near the door sensor with the fob. Fob is void of functioning the locks either lock or unlock once physically locked . Indoor lock switch does not function as well. No ability to open rear hatch. No codes via techstream. This all came about with the accessory battery failure. For what it is worth, the first instant that the battery failed I had pushed the start button, dash lit up for a nano second then 0 battery.
Is your car a salvaged title car? I would check the connections to your battery again, Disconnect it and reconnect.
I suggest you obtain the electrical wiring diagram for your car at techinfo.toyota.com Then find the diagram for the door locking system. Find the body ECU and verify you have 12V at the three pins: 4, 5 and 6 when the Prius is READY. (When the Prius is IG-OFF, it should have 12V at one of those pins at least, the one that is fed by the DOME fuse.) Make sure body ground is connected at pin 1. Then see if the body ECU is working by shorting pin 12, then pin 10, to ground (one at a time) to see if you can get the locks to lock and unlock. If that doesn't make the locks work then try replacing the body ECU. If that does work then check the wiring harness for damage. Obviously if you are aware of wiring harness damage stemming from the accident, that would be the first thing to check for a new wiring problem. Good luck.
