Our 2007 is starting to act funny. 46k miles, driving patterns stable for 3 years but hybrid battery has taken to staying fully charged or minus one bar >70% of the time, even after driving up hills. I took it to Kendall Toyota, seems like the only choice in town. They said there were no lights on the dashboard indicative of battery fault, and wanted $100. Something is up, my fuel efficiency dropped by about 15% with similar timing. Switching from winter studs to summers did nothing for it this year..... Has anyone found a decent independent shop in Anchorage that knows their way around the Prius? Please clue us in!!! Even though the car isnt performing at its best ever, it still beats everything but its brothers and sisters!!
Hello fellow Alaskan! How many miles on the car? How is the 12v battery? Original? Might consider replacing it... others have found it improved performance.
Your like the 5th or 6th gen II in the last week with this. I think it's the inverter thermally protecting its self. The charger is working but the inverter is current limiting to reduce heating and your using more ICE to make up the power lose. If you could see the inverter temps they are probably getting high. soon you will get the yellow triangle. See this thread http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-prius-technical-discussion/95553-inverter-overheat-2.html#post1350351 for more info. Inverter coolant pump should be a warranty issue. You still have the OEM pump?
How many miles on the car? How is the 12v battery? Original? Might consider replacing it... others have found it improved performance. Thanks, yes, 12V replaced, 46k, so I refused to pay the dealer to tell me the dashboard light wasn't on. Would love to find somewhere else to take the car with respect to the next comment.......
If we can get the codes for the inverter temps, I could let you use my ScanGuage to see what they are. That would help to narrow things down...
Do you know how to do a simple visual inspection for coolant flow, that is, to check that the inverter coolant pump is working?
Last time when I checked ScanGauge did not have capability for multi-frame messaging (part of the reason why I started my PriiDash(TM) project by the way) so it could not obtain the inverter temps. Maybe the new version 4 firmware has the capability?
Version 4 doesn't have multi-frame either but this spreadsheet lists (line 41) the inverter coolant temp for the GIII... I assume the GII would also be available. The question is, would the coolant temp be indicative of the problem?
Ill have to poke around in the engine to look for this. If I can locate the inverter, then the pump, i should be able to figure out if its working. I havent looked before, but will do. Good suggestion.
Here you go, I made a picture for you. BTW. It's very easy. About as easy as checking the dipstick - so do it.
No Gen 2 is different from Gen 3 and to get the inverter temperatures we need to do a request with multi-frame replies. I am not aware of the codes for the inverter coolant temperature for gen 2 (would be nice to have), only the inverter temperatures. Nice picture! Just a minor addition that IG-ON works too (and may be safer).
On my 2012 I had the inverter pump replaced after a catastrophic experience on our family vacation last summer where the inverter system shut down due to overheating while driving on the interstate. We are still getting warning lights about hybrid system overheat with one person driving the car in moderate weather. My mechanic says that it feels like the new inverter pump is working, tho I don't see turbulence in ready mode. Is it possible that air in the line would cause this? How would I or he bleed the lines? What other possibilities might I look at? My wife is ready to move on to a different car. Thanks.
Yes, air in the loop will cause the system to circulate coolant poorly or not at all. I do not know the difference with the GenIII as to getting the air out, but it is something mentioned in a number of GenII posts from a couple years back when the safety recall was issued. Post in the GenIII forum for better advice, but you definitely need to see turbulence in the reservoir to be assured that it is working. The car is likely fine, maybe it's just the mechanic that needs replacing. If there are warning lights, that means DTC's are being set. Getting the codes read and posting them will allow for a much better diagnosis. If your mechanic does not have a Prius specific scanner, then you can get the mini VCI or the Torque app for Android to read the codes.
How much estimate would it be if I had to take it to dealer for replacement? Anyone paid for this at dealer?