2007 Electric Water Pump Conversion [Engine's]

Yes, it would remove the only belt from the ICE.

Well, if my car lasts, I'll probably keep it for another 300k miles, so it could be worth it, possibly only from an emotional standpoint.

If the pump was done right, it could be very handy in keeping the ICE off more by keeping the hot water inside unless it's necessary to cool the ICE. Which would also allow for faster warmups by eliminating the radiator's water, and just introducing water as it gets X above the desired temp. Then you have the benefit of a lessor load on the ICE itself, which might or might not decrease fuel used per revolution...

Also, lets say the belted pump is good for X revolutions, and the electric pump is also good for X revolutions, yet the electric one runs less revolutions than the ICE [assume the pump and ICE revolve equally here] because it's regulating the fluid flow intelligently so that alone could increase the life, but from what I understand the belted pump goes because of the pressure from the belt, which reduces it's life. [Which is weird, because ALL ICE cars do it like that to some extent] As far as converting the life of either to a number of revolutions. I don't know if it could even be measured...

 

I never said manually actuating the pump. There are no temp sensors in the radiator of any [production] car that I know of, they are all located in the engine.

If the water in the radiator is COLD [relative] going into the engine, it won't have to move as much into it, as it is working on maintaining a temperature range. [Range would be an upper and lower limit, preferably more than a few degrees apart] To PROPERLY do it for a production fix would be to put two sensors in the block to prevent one end from getting too hot because it's too far away from the thermostat. A dynamic water pump should be used, but short bursts of water flow could give the same final results.

Back when I was driving my truck [8L V10] I did some testing, and found that simply putting the temperature gage on COLD in the winter did cause the ICE to warm up faster, the theory proven by watching the gage dip when I turned the temp to hot. [The temp gage in that was unusual, while cold, it isolated the engine from the radiator, so the pump would just cycle coolant through the radiator.] In the cold, simply pushing water into the passenger compartment's radiator can do early cooling, and could keep the water pump from needing to circulate as often.

 

Since there is a water pump that allows heat to enter the cabin while the ICE is off, it could be configured so if the passenger compartment needs heat, it will pull water from inside the ICE, and if not NEEDED, the electric pump on the front of the ICE could be shut down to prevent the ICE from cooling down too fast.

 

I like it, but that two minutes after shutdown would be an issue, destroys the advantage of having it.

 

Why do people keep talking about payoff when talking about cars!?!?!

A car is 99.999% of the time a LOSS! Certain cars lose faster than others.

When I bought my car, I sat down and did the math. The changes in gas payments will cover the vehicle changes, AND the insurance increase. I never figured out the plate price difference. Now that the car is paid off, I'm realizing the savings, but we have other bills that quickly took those savings. If there is gains from going to an electric pump, they will offset the up-front costs, but don't expect a savings EVER!

If you pay twice the price for the pump, and it lasts long enough to cover the price of two pumps, plus a single labor, you are coming out ahead. For my car, that's the price divided by 105k, then multiplied by the life of the new pump. By that point, you will never notice it as the money goes to other things in your life...