Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

Thank you Patrick! I will go check my oil level regularly from now on.

Would you recommend synthetic oil over regular oil(high mileage oil)?

thanks

 

More like four decades ago, Patrick.

Early 90s Honda and Toyota engines routinely made it to 200K miles and more without replacement. My '79 Vette (Chevette) 1.6L engine had 170K miles on it and was still running strong. The body rusted out underneath it.

 

I've just rebuilt my 2005, engine and was utterly amazed at the distinct lack of wear evident. This car was ex government fleet with a less than enviable service history, regularly skipped and out to 25-45,000km between services. I'm astonished it didn't run dry and seize. To my surprise, despite frequent neglect it was like new inside, not requiring big-end shells at 214,000km. I simply replaced the rings because the oil control rings were stuck in the grooves due to excessive carbon, lack of servicing, light cylinder hone and head checked and cleaned. That's it!! These engines are very robust but, BUT, check your oil and change it frequently for best service life. The rings are tiny by any standards, Top-0.8mm, Second, 1.0mm, oil, 1.5mm. Despite small size, low tension and horrible neglect, they were not worn out, simply stuck up with oil residue from old oil, (lack of maintenance). These cars continue to amaze me, having 2, I can say they are by far the best cars I have ever owned.

 

annoying buzzing noise when i Break or release from breaking. Any clue ?

 

That's normal for the prius. Brake accumulator pump

SM-N900P ?

 

I ran out of fuel once, driving into a 60+ mph headwind with a kayak on top. Luckily, I also had my bike, so went and got some fuel. After putting some fuel in the tank I just had to wait a minute or so, and the car started right back up with no problems. That was 4 years ago.

 

Hi Patrick,

I'm surprised about your oil consumption. My 2007 just turned over 200K miles and at my oilchange intervals I still get out about the same as I put in. I don't think it even burns 1/4 quart. In fact, the old oil looks so good I run the old stuff in my lawn mowers and tractors for a while. I've had synthetic in there since the first change off the dealer's lot. Maybe that helped?

SA

 

[/QUOTE]
Hi Patrick,

I'm surprised about your oil consumption. My 2007 just turned over 200K miles and at my oilchange intervals I still get out about the same as I put in. I don't think it even burns 1/4 quart. In fact, the old oil looks so good I run the old stuff in my lawn mowers and tractors for a while. I've had synthetic in there since the first change off the dealer's lot. Maybe that helped?

SA[/QUOTE]
I believe living in a colder climate and using a quality synthetic oil helps tremendously with oil burning. That's very impressive you have over 200k and still burn minimal amounts of oil. I'm jealous

 

*raises hand*
The car alarm kept going off. It's not actually an alarm that can be set off by anything other than the panic button. Dying battery (possibly combined with dampness) caused the old key fob to keep setting it off... had to remove the fob battery to fix the problem. Key is easy to get out, lock works fine, and we've not a non-SKS car so it wasn't weird one inside.

Another situation where you need to know where the mechanical key is happens when the 12V battery dies. This has happened to me twice now.... well, a bunch of times in a row when the old 12V was on it's way out and I was waiting for the optima yellow top replacement, and once on the replacement - have no idea what got left on. After a day of driving everything was back in spec though.

 

nice thread. it will help me . Getting much solution for this thread.

Thanks for sharing .

 

When this happened to me it was a stuck alarm button in the FOB.

JeffD

 

Hmm... this happened again with the new battery in. I just replaced the entire fob. However, it should be noted that the car came used without the rubber button covers on the fob, so although the panic button didn't appear to be stuck, the internals may have become dirty/damp/shorted and caused the problem. This was apparently not a battery-related issue.

 

Just be aware that some things might be different for your car - 2010 is a Gen III vehicle, and we're talking about common Gen II problems. I'm sure a lot of it carries over, though.

 

I have a question. Bought used Gen 2, now has 148k miles. The car icon (with object inside icon) is blinking after powering down. Manual is saying this could be any part of the electrical system. What is the typical point of failure for this mileage? Headed to dealership tomorrow.

 

Thanks, it is. I just checked on some Google photos. Oops, rookie mistake. Thanks for the reply. I checked the manual as well, and it is the immobilizer system.

 

I disconnected the muffler at the exhaust manifold, I now sound like a Harley Davidson motorcycle coming in for a landing!