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My new PiP with RAV4 side molding

Discussion in 'Gen 1 Prius Plug-in 2012-2015' started by Allannde, Apr 5, 2012.

  1. Allannde

    Allannde Just a Senior

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    Hi davekro

    Yes indeed there is confusion. Let me take responsibility for that.

    1. I went out a double checked the measurements. They are correct.

    2. There is no "bending" and never has been any. That was a poor choice of words on my part.

    3. I tried to explain before that I aligned the bottom of the BSM (the top as installed on a RAV4) with the straight line of the rocker molding. The installer followed my instructions exactly. The result was that the actual straight line of what is now the top of the RAV4 molding on my car (it is the bottom on a RAV4) is not actually a straight line. The place where the back of the front door section meets the front of the back door section is 3/4 of an inch too high for this to be a straight line on my car. I suggest that you make THAT a straight line, not the bottom as I actually did.

    You see the design of the RAV4 molding was to have a straight edge at the bottom and a very gently curving line at the top ending at a sharply curved rear end. I thought it was straight on both the top and bottom except for the very back end. This is a minor detail, but one that a perfectionist like me notices.

    4. The actual location of the molding on my car as you see it in the photograph is according to the above measurements. I do not suggest that you locate the BSM differently. As I said, this is the point at which our car extends the nearest to the next car in the parking lot. It also matches with the stock BSM height on other cars I have measured.

    There is nothing magic about my choice of the height of this BSM. You need to satisfy your taste. This is what I did and why.

    You do what pleases you.

    Allan
     
  2. davekro

    davekro Member

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    Allan,
    Ah, thank you for the clarification on the 3/4" dimension. :)
    Looking again closely at your and Blake's photos, I can see your moldings are mounted lower than my mind was envisioning. I'm going out now to work on mounting the moldings while I have some sunshine left today. I'll shoot to go with the 8 1/2" front ht with straight line to 1o" ht at top of back molding. There is already a3/8" horizontal 'mar' in the clear coat at +/- 10" in the middle of the front door, so I may adjust up a hair to be sure to cover THAT. :)

    Thanks again for the speedy replies!
    Dave

    Edit: Forgot I had to measure to create shims to add the extra 3M tape to for a bit extra holding power. Actual install will have to wait now...
     
  3. Allannde

    Allannde Just a Senior

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    Hi Dave

    You asked me to explain about the gap left in the back of the front door for the door edge guard. I thought that a photo would be the clearest way even if it is after dark here and my garage light is not the best. Clearly the gap between the front door section and the rear door section of the BSM could be tighter without the setback for the door edge guard.

    I am trying to be helpful, but I am afraid that it is only confusing. This is not a big deal.

    Allan

    IMG_0084.JPG
     
  4. davekro

    davekro Member

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    Allan,
    To the contrary, you are being VERY helpful. This picture 'IS' worth a bunch of words! :ROFLMAO:
    And I can see that your door edge guards necessitated the gap, which is not bad at all.

    Sorry to ask more info ;) but are your door edge guards clear or white? Are they Prius specific, or just generic from the local auto parts store. I too like the idea of 'extra' protection, so want to consider this door edge guard idea too (with wife's OK of course ;) ).

    I looked into the 3M front + clear bra like you did, but decided that was more $ than I could justify at the $800 of a local Yelp loved shop.

    Again, your generosity of spirit and time to post is greatly appreciated.(y)
     
  5. Allannde

    Allannde Just a Senior

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    Hi Dave

    Thank you

    The door edge guards are the same material which is used for the "clear bra". I think they are made from scraps. I am sure that I did not pay anything like $800 for my "clear bra". My problem with not having this protection is that matching our color with touchup paint for rock chips is not easy. Repainting a section so it looks new will cost more than $800. The hood is plastic like the front end so will not rust. It is a cosmetic issue.

    Of course door edges are always vulnerable and are not so expensive to protect. I also protected my door jams where my foot drags as I get in and out of the car. I don't have the control of my legs that I had as a younger man.

    Any car which gets the care and attention which you give to yours is going to be a special car for you and who ever is lucky enough to be the next owner.

    Good Job!

    Allan
     
  6. davekro

    davekro Member

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    First of all, I'd like to say it again... Thank you Allen for your creativity (and time) in discovering the Rav4 side moldings as an attractive and door protecting addition to our Prii. (y)
    I finally got to install mine last night, along with the second lower door molding.

    How I did it:
    I decided to raise my 'top line' measurement* from Allen's 10" back, 8.5" front to 10.875" back, 9.25" front. This was to cover an existing door ding in the clear coat. These measurements are from the upper edge of the of the silver lower door molding I had just added. If you do not have these moldings, measure from the crease in the door which is ≈ 1/4" higher, and subtract 1/4" from your desired thread or strike line height. I found using dark thread held with painters tape was very useful since I was able to move it easily and it was a one man job to place. I just tied a few knots in the end and made a loop for the tape to have more to grab/hold. Allen's 10"/8.5" both were 40% of the distance from lower trim to upper door crease above door handles. I just made sure to keep my raised amount the same % back and front. Mine turned out to be 44%. I used 3M Exterior tape for extra holding power in 5 places (2/3). I used a 1/8" piece of plastic sandwiched between two pieces of 3M tape where needed* and just used 2 to 3 thicknesses of the tape at the shallower places. Tape is ≈ .045" thick.

    Once I established my top of molding 'thread line' from my two end measurements, I placed a small piece of tape in the middle 'split' on each door at the line, because it is easy to move the thread during installation. After that was done the rest was a piece of cake.

    Excellent side benefit of Rav4 BSM... The door closing sound/feel is now solid. It no longer sounds like a hollow 50 gal. drum was banged on when I close the door (from the light door skin reverberating). SWEET! (y)

    Lower Door Moldings... We LOVE the look of these! Euro Mudflaps, black... I actually like them being black after having them installed (after thinking I 'had' to have them painted! ;) ) I think they blend well with the white/black/ silver color scheme. :cool: All is up to personal taste, of course.

    *At the end of the back molding this sandwiched adhesive was a bit too high, so I sanded off the raised p/n on the underside of the mldg there. It may have been still a hair too high, as the back tip of my molding is slightly off the door surface (but not above where the 'extra sticky' actually is, about 2" in from end :confused: )

    [​IMG]

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    Chazz8 likes this.
  7. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Davekro, nice job! :)

    FYI, standing on a small stool to take a pic is a good way to fall and injure yourself. :eek:

    SCH-I535
     
  8. davekro

    davekro Member

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    Oh, that is only one of many on my 'list of risky things!' :D
    This was one of those jobs where it was hard because I was unsure of how to do it. But, after the 'thread line' was established, the rest was super easy.
     
  9. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Yeah, that thread line tip is genius. Wish I had known to do that when installing side moldings on my 2 current vehicles. :)

    SCH-I535
     
  10. Allannde

    Allannde Just a Senior

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    Dave

    That is a beautiful job. You did it just as I wish I had done it. You get the prize!

    There is some similarity between our cars. The green sticker on your right rear fender will be needed to tell them apart if we ever chance to meet.

    Another benefit of this is that my car seems lower and longer. I think this is because of the size of the added horizontal line. The line is not too large nor too small. I take no credit for that. It just came out that way. I was looking for protection from errant door openers.

    Allan
     
  11. davekro

    davekro Member

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    If we drive to WA to visit my wife's dad. I'll keep an eye out for ya.
    Cheers to twins. ;)
     
  12. uropip

    uropip Member

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    Had a set at shop that were in straight white (040).. we had a blizzard Sequioa in the shop getting 3/4 of it repainted so I threw mine in the booth at the same .. gotto get mine in the shopafter work 1 day for a clean and install

    Galaxy Note 10.1 ? Pro
     
  13. uropip

    uropip Member

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