Maintenance tips requested for long-term ownership

Understood. Just to add, ATF should cost no more than $99.99

 

The three above are reasonable, if a bit high

There is no flush, just a drain and refill of each of the two loops (ICE and Inverter)

My dealer does this for $100 as mentioned above

I'm not sure that I would let this dealer work on my Prius.

JeffD

 

Agreed.

 

$14 to rotate the tires? That is free at every place I have ever taken my car. $66 for an oil change? Jebus... that's high too.

 

^ I sure as hell wouldn't rotate someone's tires for free. Would you??

If it's free it's because it's a "loss-leader", a ploy to get you in the door.

 

They give it free to get you in the door, exactly. It works, too. I've had tires plugged for free as well. I've never paid for a patch.

 

I will recommend exactly the opposite.

Because of the computer controlled regenerative braking, any brake work that needs 'bleeding' to be done, needs to be done at a dealership. There is Toyota specific software to defeat the usual regen and allow a direct line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinders.

Spark Plugs, Coolant, and ATF labor (get the fluid from Toyota) are well within the expertise of a DIYer, or any mechanic. You will find step by step "how to"s here. (and rants about trying brake jobs on your own)

 

I suggest sticking with synthetic. Bouncing back and forth can do weird things to the gaskets and seals.

 

those prices seem ridiculously high

 

Negative. This is not true. You can go back and forth from conventional to synthetic and back again at each oil change without incurring gasket or seal problems caused by it. Perhaps it was true in the 70's, but not in the last 20 years, at least.

However, to stay with the recommended 0w-20 would practically guarantee you will be using a synthetic oil, as I don't think there is a conventional 0w-20 yet. A conventional 5w-20, while not recommended in the owner's manual, is entirely ok to use for 5k mile intervals on the C. With approx 20% or more of the 5k miles being with engine-off, it would be will within the range of the abilities of conventional oils. Oil recommendations outside of North America show the ability to use any weight oil shy of gear lube...even 50w oil, in hot climes. You would see decreased mpgs, and perhaps sluggishness on colder days, but that's about it.

I'll let others discuss mechanical maintenance items. I do my own work so the cost is for just parts and tools. The tools paid for themselves many years ago, and I would say to buy jack stands and a 2.5 ton hydraulic jack now so you can start changing your oil and rotating your tires now. They will last your lifetime and save you money every time you use them.

What I would like to talk about is keeping your car looking good for all those years you will have it. Hand wash it. Wax it two/three times a year, every year. Wax gets easier all the time, and doing each panel twice can be done in an hour or so on a Saturday or Sunday morning. Clean your glass inside and out at least once per year. Twice would be better. Vacuum your carpet. Wipe down your dash, doors, seats, trim, and console with a damp cloth twice per year. Spot paint chipped paint. Remove tar from the wheels. Clean the salt and dirt off the car regularly during the winter.

Make you car worth looking at through the years and it will pay off in increased value when you finally say goodbye to it.

 

Apart from the ATF replacement, which seems a bit high, should be around $100, the rest look about right to me.

 

Mr Incredible, 0w20 is one of options for the my Prius C down here. That oil has the same 10k kms change period than 5w30, which incidentally is the lowest oil I have been able to find.

Maybe in 10F temps the grade could make a difference, but in more temperate climate Toyota doesn't think so.

Sent ?

 

Colder temps Toyota recommends the 5w30. For some reason the US cars have 10k miles between oil changes. Canada has a 5k service.

 

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