Gen 1 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

I did this back in the Fall, pretty much following the steps out of Volume 2 exactly, though I didn't see any necessity to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. If you don't already own a big press, or a "hub tamer" or "hub shark", taking the knuckle in to a shop, once it's removed from the car, along with your new bearing and snap ring seems to be the easiest and most cost-effective way to go.

-Chap

 

watched utube and bought the complete hubs front and back, however the front needed the little cylinders pressed into it so, had local shop with press do that... ,,,complete bearing job x 4 for about 450 and toyo shop wanted to charge 1600 for two. the hubs are a system very much unlike the regular cars where you can replace small parts and repack..good luck

 

The bearings are cheap, but you need a big press or similar to get them out/in. Easiest to pull off the knuckle and take to a shop with press and have them install the bearings, then you remount into the car. Don't forget to have alignment checked.

 

For people looking at fronts and rears, the style difference (hub generation 1 in front, hub generation 3 in back) translates to:

Front: bearing is cheap, job is labor (press work, specialized tools, bunch of steps).
Rear: bearing rather expensive, job is cheap (four bolts out, zip-zop).

Caveat: if you drive in the salt belt, replace "zip" with "beat living daylights out of old hub with big slide hammer." Zop is still zop - the new one will go in so easily it feels like an anticlimax after all that.

Also, suggestion: if you find yourself having to beat the daylights out of the hub with your slide hammer, leave the four bolts in place by a couple of threads, just so when you finally succeed you don't end up in the next room with the hub, wheel cylinder, and some of the brake line. (I'm happy to report this is not the voice of experience for once, because I actually stopped part way through and thought of that before it was too late.)

Starting with the Gen 2 Prius, they are third-generation hubs all around; the press-em-yourself fronts go the way of the dodo.

-Chap

 

Hi Chap, I've got a roaring rear wheel bearing on my 02, considering pressing a new bearing in vs. buying a hub assembly. I see the rear wheel bearing is same part # as a front wheel bearing? I can't find info on pressing the bearing off in the factory manual. Any advice, or should I just buy the replacement hub assembly. Thanks, Robert

 

It's easier to just replace the rear hub/bearing assembly since the ABS sensor is part of the hub assembly. It shouldn't be too expensive from an online parts seller like RockAuto.com or similar. Just make sure the ABS sensor (with electrical connector) comes with the hub you buy. Being in Maine you'll probably need to beat on the hub to get it out. First remove the 4 bolts on the backside of the hub, use plenty of PB Blaster and a torch if you have one, or obtain/make a tool like this (google Hub Shocker)

 

Hi Paul, thanks for your reply...I think you are the man with charging connectors for "The Connector To Nowhere" I have found a small 250vdc generator and will hook it to a weedwacker engine to make a HV charger for rescuing Prii with discharged HV's, as our local dealer s not interested in charging batteries.

I see removal of the ABS sensor described in volume 2 of the factory manual, it looks like a straight pull with a bearing puller...where it's pressed into the R.W. hub, it's stamped sheetmetal housing looks like the front wheel bearing cap on a RWD car brake drum.

But the manual didn't get into hub/bearing disassembly, tho I see the bearings on Ebay for $20. and some sellers list them as same part for front or rear and I wonder if this is true.....it's these 2 issues that I need input on.

For pulling hubs, I back out the flange mounting bolts 2 turns and drive down a bumpy road.
I always enjoy reading your posts. Thanks, Robert in Maine.

 

I think you are right to wonder. That sounds like a mistake to me. If you read any of the bearing manufacturers' descriptions of the hub-bearing assembly third generation style, the whole idea is it's a factory-produced assembly without provisions for field repair. Also, my experience that the fronts and rears make a different pitch of sound when failing suggests to me that their dimensions and/or ball counts are different.

-Chap

 

You've got me wondering about predictive diagnosis based on harmonics, with vehicle-specific charts of frequencies for worn timing chains, water pump bearings, vvt, fuel pumps.....

 

They are cheap as dirt and easy to replace. Entire front hub with bearings is only 44 bucks and rear is 31 dollars and takes only 15 mins to slap a new hub assy on. Front takes about an hour.per side

 

Guys entire hub with bearings new studs and abs sensor for front is less than 50 bucks. Rear hub and bearing assy is only 31 bucks at the zone. Takes about 15mins to take old off and put new on. Real easy no pressing bearings a waste of effort and time.280k and counting 2002

 

POIDH. Unboxing pics of that new "front hub with bearing" would be great.

 

This thread is over 5 years old.

 

Gen 1s never go out of style. And sometimes they need wheel bearings.