2006 Prius hybrid system overheats with codes P3190 and P3191

1. I do not think you have an overheating problem. I don't see any warning lights in your photos that relate to that.
2. P3191 means "engine no-start" and P3190 means "poor engine power".
3. How many miles on the odometer?
4. How much fuel is in the tank when you have a problem? For now, keep the tank 1/2 full or greater.

With the Prius IG-OFF, open the hood, remove the engine air cleaner cover and look at the throttle body interior. Rotate the throttle body shaft by hand. Use a flashlight to get a good look at the throttle plate.

If you see black dirt on the throttle plate or the throttle body interior, that all needs to be cleaned off using throttle body cleaner.

The mass air flow sensor mounted on the air cleaner housing is also suspect. It should be removed and cleaned using MAF sensor cleaner. Do not use some other cleaner.

While you are at it, remove the air filter and hold it up to sunlight. If you don't see light coming through the filter, replace it now. Compare to a new filter if you have any doubt.

If all of the above are good, I suggest that you have the fuel rail pressure measured, which should be 44-50 psi. Maybe the fuel pump is getting marginal.

Also have the air induction system checked for leaks, especially downstream from the MAF sensor. Perhaps the throttle body gasket is leaky, allowing unmetered air to enter. A loose PCV valve hose, loose/missing engine oil cap or oil dipstick can also contribute to this.

 

Check the throttle body interior and throttle plate, regarding DTC P3191.

Also check the inverter coolant reservoir when the Prius is READY, looking for fluid turbulence. If you do not see this, the inverter coolant pump has failed or there is air in the coolant loop which is allowing the inverter to overheat.
That may cause temporary drivetrain issues which will go away after a cooling period.

 

Patrick is the MAN.

Bad fuel pump, eh. That really blows. Not many miles on your 06 I see.

I hate to say it but it seems you unfortunately own a lemon since the traction battery was replaced before the warranty expired as well.

 

Worn electric fuel pumps can get weak/cut out when they get hot, and work just fine when cold. Just replaced one on a Ford Taurus with the same symptoms, and have seen many examples over the years.

Sometimes we get so blinded by all the electronic controls and such that we forget the basics!

Glad you got the problem solved!

 

Hi Enik,

Great story, well told. Stumbled over it earlier while surfing on my phone, but had a hard job finding it again.

Yes, Patrick is the MAN, for sure!

I love to try to solve these puzzles myself, before I get to the end of the thread, and when I saw the One Bar on the HV Battery picture, thought, must be the ICE... That was a question I have wanted to answer - what happens if the IC engine fails to restart? How long does it crank for, how many times does it try, and how do you know if it failed to start? Now I have an answer. Sort of...

Typical of the enigmatic Prius. The main engine fails to re-start (a "significant" problem) due to lack of fuel but in spite of all the technology, sensors, computers, MFD and everything, it doesn't bother to tell you. Just throws a couple of codes deep in the system. Yet it tells you quick enough if you have the door open and put the transmission into Drive.

Anyway, I see jadziasman suggested you might have a lemon...

Although I'm only a noob myself, I have been doing a lot of reading on here (Great Forum!), and I want to say, I very much doubt that you have a lemon. In my guessimation, the only lemon in the equation is the Dealer who replaced your Traction Battery and Computer under warranty - lucky you. But my bet is they were simply stabbing in the dark, and the problem was a dodgy, intermittent fuel pump the whole time. Just, replacing the battery etc "seemed to fix it" at the time.

Happy free-wheeling!

 

I just received this exact set of error message today on my 2006 (171K)...including the battery drain issue. I'm staying with relatives in NY and was just starting to head to Philly when this error came up after filling up the tank (was at just under 1/2 tank prior). I got the car into the dealership and they said all codes point to the hybrid battery, but the hybrid tech wasn't confident that the battery system was at fault. The rep was just telling me "there are a lot of codes, etc, etc, etc. So I'm not quite convinced that the real issue has been discovered by the technician quite yet. I wasn't on the schedule and rushed it into them, so I'm sure he wasn't in much of a hurry to find the problem at the end of Saturday shift.

I "hope" this post sheds some light on it. Thanks to all the posters here (including wonderful detail on OP). Maybe I can drop the hint when I talk with them on Monday morning.

Cheers...

 

What are the codes?

 

Darn it all... it's not the P3190 or P3191. The codes on mine are: P0A0D (High Voltage System?) and P3000 (Battery Control System?).

I will say...Toyota Customer Care has really stepped up and even at 171k, they're covering a good portion of the replacement part (main hybrid battery) as gesture of goodwill. They indicated that because I take my car to the dealership for service, they want to help out. It's huge...i can't really afford the $3500 repair bill nor can I deal with a monthly payment.

 

WOW, this is good news Toyota reached out and offered assistance at 171k. You probably hold the record for the most miles and getting assistance

 

I have 2004 prius, I drive in the hot summer in arizona. every about 40 mile, it lost power and make a beep sound I brought to the dealer, at first the dealer said to change the radiator fan for $725. I bought fan online and put it on by myself. The problem not go away. I talk to the technician, he said it may the hybrid water pump, he suggest to put the car ready and see if there is a movement in the water reservoir for hybrid cooling system. and there is. Finally the manager call me and will re diagnose for free.

they found there is a hybrid water pump not working when hot. Look like work properly when I start but there is a problem with wiring inside the pump, and not working when it hot. the dealer replace it for additional 235 dollar and solve the problem. here is the video if you want to replace by your self

 

Not quite the record I'd like to hold, but really...kudos to Toyota for helping me out in pinch. The dealership mentioned that the battery cooling fan was pretty nasty and clogged up. I'm guessing it was because I tow my rotten golden retriever around constantly. The hair that must have been in there is probably one of the things that didn't help matters much.

This link indicates on how to clean it...and I'll probably do so every now and again:
How To Clean The Battery Cooling Fan in A 2004-2009 Toyota Prius

Sorry to highjack the thread...cheers everyone!

 

I experienced a P3190 code
ICE would not start
Had to get towed
It was a failed O-ring in the fuel line that blocked fuel to ICE

The mechanic had previously done recent work on my vehicle in the area of failure. That is, within past week, mechanic had disconnected & re-connected fuel line where the O-Ring failed in order to do other fixes.
However mechanic would not take blame saying the O-Ring was bad
Although mechanic performed the fix for free (replaced O-Ring), I was inconvenienced & had to pay for towing (I hope to get reimbursed from Insurance)

 

Posting here as Enik's problem closely resembles mine. I have a 2001 with 201,000 miles or so. Been running a salvaged regen battery since 126,000+/-. My prius always starts and if handled gently will run at highway speed for about 10 minutes, then it starts to chug and sputter. I'm also getting crappy mileage - 37 mpg. Like Enik, I can pull over, turn off the ignition and restart. I'll go for another 10 minutes before the same thing happens. The other quirky thing is sometimes it will not go in reverse. I had Advance Auto read the codes today and got; C1202 No DTC definition found, C1259 Malfunction in regenerative of HV engine control unit, P3006 Batteries levels are unusually different, P3016 and 3017 Battery Block 6 (and 7) becomes week, P0300 Random multiple misfire, P301 Cyl 1 misfire (same code for all cylinders), P1455 Vapor Reducing fuel tank system, P3190 Poor engine power, P3191 engine does not start.

I have already cleaned the throttle body and mass air flow sensor and have a new air filter. Going to replace the plugs as well since I can't remember the last time they were replaced.

From reading threads it sounds like I could have a fuel issue and a regenerative battery issue. My question; Is it possible to have a fuel pump issue that triggers false battery codes? I don't want to spend too much on fuel pumps if I need another battery pack.

Sorry - just re-read. Sounds like fuel pump requires a new tank, so if it's the fuel pump or the regen battery I probably need to look at getting a new car. ugh.