My new PiP with RAV4 side molding

Nice to hear from You! have a nice day!

 

Anyone do a DIY Blizzard Pearl paint of the black mudflaps? Duplicolor site does not list a spray can (just touch up scratch fix).
On Amazon I found "TouchUpDirect" for $53.90 (paint + clear 2 cans) ouch.
Toyota Prius Automotive Aerosol Spray Paint - Blizzard Pearl Tricoat 070 : Amazon.com : Automotive
On PaintScratch.com for 12 oz can I found: Paint $51.90, Clear $15.25, primer $13.50. bigger ouch!
PaintScratch.com Secure Order Form

Curious who has done a DIY Blizz. Pear painting of their mud flaps (or anything else) and how did it turn out and hold up?

 

M8s,
Did you have any concern of the (small amount of) chalk dust getting on the sticky tape and adding a blueish tint to the upper edge. Or did you just run the BSM 'just' below the chalk line evenly? Did you measure 10" from the crease above the bottom of the door? (i don't have lower door moldings, but they are now on my radar! ). And was your 10" (or what ever # you used) to the 'top edge' of the molding?

Can you describe the process you used in actually applying the Rav4 molding? Like does it have two separate tapes running the length, then you pulled just the top tape to 'lightly' put in place than, peel back the lower tape and let it adhere, then, when sure you liked your placement, fully press along the molding for final securing? I guess I am asking (short of a YouTube video ), can you describe in detail your process? Being an avid DIY selfer, the second time is ALWAYS easier from things I 'learned' on the first.

Thanks for any info (or You Tube vids. LOL)

 

ProximalSuns, I may be doing my own install of the Rav4 BSMs. If you still happen to have a pics of the verticle angle where moldings meet at the door, could you post here (or send direct to me)?

Also, still curious if anyone has done a DIY painting of the Euro (or U.S.) mudflaps in Blizzard Pearl White. If so, what brand and products did you use and are you very happy with the outcome?

Initially I thought Allennde and Blakemstr had their dealers do the painting and parts installeation, but upon re re-reading, I think they had their 'body shop guys' do it. Blake had his Silver MF's painted for $100. Hmmn, even for a good deal, Blizz. Pearl may be more due to more coats needed for pearl and clear coats.

If you paid to have your Blizz Pearl mudflaps painted, do you mind posting what you paid and if it was your Toyota dealer or a local body shop? Would it be cheaper to go to a body shop? I had thought to ask for a price if my local dealer (Dublin Toyota) could just kept my mudflaps in their body shop until they had a Blizzard Pearl car repair to paint, and do it along with the car.

 

The RAV 4 moldings look great , In fact , IMO , better than the prius ones look

 

I have heard of gay people but never a gay car.
What is a 'gay Prius'?

 

I just pulled the trigger and bought the Rav 4 BSM and brushed silver PiP Lower Door Molding from a dealer in Wash state. They had by far the best pricing and that extra incentive allowed me to splurge on the extra lower door moldings too. I also ordered the Euro Mudflaps from our Prius Chat shop.

 

Lovely. Especially like the understated rocker panel mimic. Thanks for the idea.

 

First, Thank you Allen for starting this trend of Rav4 moldings which seems to have really caught on! You have inspired me, and many others obviously.

I would LOVE to see your Blizzard Pearl with the black mudflaps AND DIRTY so I can see the affect the mudflaps have on how the dirt shows up on the side of the car. If you could post some pics that show how they lessen road dirt and an angle that shows how the black MF's look on our Blizz. Pearl, that would be very much appreciated. If you prefer to PM me with your 'dirty pics' (OF THE CAR! ), so as not to defame your baby, that is cool.

Ordered BSM in Blizz. Pearl.

 

Allen,
Very cool. Thanks for the pictures and a very Happy New Years to you!

 

Allan,
I got my (Rav4) BSM, Lower Door Moldings and Euro flaps. I see the adhesive strips on the BSM are only 1/4" (LDM adhesive strips are 3/8"). Do you have any idea of where your guy might have used extra adhesive strips? Like down the middle or around the perimeter? The oem adhes. stips are very thin on the built up lip around the perimeter of the BSM. I exta is added inboard of that, it needs to be thicker> I do have some 3/4" wide double sticky tape. I may get lucky that a 'double thickness might be even with the oem strips or maybe I use a thin spacer in between the layers, say if I wanted to go down the middle. This may be over kill AND make lining u more difficult??

Besides Allan and his body guy, any feedback from the DIY selfers on if/ how you used extra ahdesive (strips or otherwise). I do have spray cans of 3M 'Spray Adhesive Hi-Strength 90' and 'Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive'.

 

Allen,
Would you be able to measure from the top edge of each (front door & back door) Rav4 BSM (1" in from the ends) to the top edge of your Lower Door Molding*? Since the top of the moldings is straight, that would be an easier reference point for me to install to I think.

I tried measuring up 10" from the middle of each door, marking those with tape and stretching a piece of black thread along those, extended past where the moldings will end. But when I tried to align the bottom of the molding along that line, it was hard to decide which parts of the curved bottom edges to align to it. I played with it a while and stopped.
* For a reference to those without LDM, my just installed lower door molding top edge is ≈1/4" below the bend in the bottom of the door.

Thanks in advance.

 

You should get 3M exterior mounting tape, the one with the black/dark gray foam and the red plastic backing. If it's wider than needed, it can be trimmed with a scissors.

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch - Amazon.com

SCH-I535

 

Thank you for this this product. I will get some. I'll need too add a piece of material sandwiched in between two pieces of this .o4o" thick tape, but that is doable! I'll probably just add several 1" x 1" sandwiched sticky pads to the center of each BSM for extra holding power over the 1/4" perimeter tape from the factory.
Thanks!

 

1) Did I miss read your previous posts? I thought you drew a straight line 10 inches above the lower door molding and had your installer draw a line and somehow align the curved 'bottom' edge to that 10 inch vertical height. (where your installer bent the molding somewhat to form to the 10" line (under molding), causing the normally straight top/opposite edge to bow up 3/4 inch making it curved as well? So, if you put a straight edge on the top of your molding it would not be a straight line from front to back, right?

If my above assumption is correct, then if I mounted the top of our 'upside down choice' for the molding (which is pretty much a straight line), it would make my side molding 2 to 2 1/2 inches lower than where your molding is on the door vertically. ???

But from your 10 inch rear two top of molding and 8 1/2" front top of molding to lower door molding, it seems your molding is lower than I initially thought.

So is 8 1/2" and 10" respectively from the top edge of the front and back ends of the molding what would you choose if you were to do it again?

I don't plan to 'bend' the molding. I will let the top edge remain straight.

Sorry for my confusion.