"Plug" running hot....?

maybe it's tripping it when the charging is at the last ten minutes of charging, because I have monitored the voltage and current using a data logger and using Excel displayed the current drop from 12 amps to 6

 

that's a picture of my data logger hooked up at my local ChargePoint station

 

I'm not clear on what you mean there. I just did some checking, though, and I think I know what has you folks confused: an EVSE does contain a little transformer, and it does accept 100-240 volts. *However*, it takes power supplied by the house circuit and uses it to *power the EVSE*, not to charge the car. Further, EVSEs with J-1772 plugs are largely interchangeable: a Leaf EVSE will allow a Prius PHEV to charge, and vice versa (I've done this). The Leaf EVSE does not convert 120 volts to 240, yet it can "charge" a PIP. Therefore the PIP's own EVSE does not supply the car with 240 volts, except maybe at the proximity sensor, with L-2 charging. If that's what you were all talking about, then this has been a huge waste of time for everybody, I'm afraid...

 

check out this thread.........

home wiring failure | PriusChat

 

me2, I did some checking, not very clear though

http://www.sae.org/smartgrid/chargingspeeds.pdf

 

samsdad, it sounds to me like something is amiss in the outlets/gfci's the electrician installed for you. i would have them come back and take a look.

 

Thats how I have mine! No problems.

 

and this hasn't happened?........

home wiring failure | PriusChat

 

No, but I did run a 12 gauge dedicated line to my outlet.

 

how's the weather there? hit zero yet?

 

44 degrees today, but I'm holding on to my socks!

 

lol, zero here on new years eve

 

Just check weather 49 degrees today but Sunday low -15 , Monday -13, Tuesday -10 Highs in the low digits 0 t0 -4.

 

"Crack" always brings to mind Bart Simpson in a cartoon next to a plumber working under a sink, with the caption "Crack Kills!"

This is NOT the one, but relays a stronger message.
Google Image Result for

 

There is an easy way to test for ground - no electrician needed. Just get a $3 test light and touch it to both the Hot (smaller) slot and a metal part of the outlet, like the center cover screw or the case. If it lights, the outlet is grounded. (In the case of the box, it means the box, at least, is grounded. Check the outlet too.) If there is no light, try the neutral (larger) slot: if it lights then the outlet is wired with reversed polarity, and should be fixed.

 

Glad you resolved the problem, thats Great!

 

i thought this was the weather forecast thread. thanks for derailing.