Repair or sell? Gen 1 HV battery needs to be replaced

Hi Maria,

It looks like you drive around 20K miles a year, so the question is what repairs will be needed to enable the car to go from 233K miles to 293K miles.

You already know that you need to spend $2K for the new battery which is actually a very good price.

Over the next three years, the transaxle, inverter, or catalytic converter easily could fail and the first two of those would result in a low four-digit repair bill assuming you install a used part. It is not impossible that the gasoline engine might have an issue.

Or you may find that no other serious repairs are required.

So if you are willing to run the risk of having to fund another repair (or more), then install the new traction battery. Otherwise, put your money into a newer vehicle. Good luck with your decision.

 

10 years + 233,000 miles? Time for a new car. Many components are near or at their design lifespan ends by now. IMHO you're taking a gamble that will only increase in risk and in incremental but necessary costs just to keep the car alive.

 

Get a different car. Scrap/sell your Prius and take that $1000 +/- and put it towards a newer ride. That Prius owes you nothing and has served you well. Just let us know what you get to replace it or if you decide to fix it, curious is all since I will beat that point some day.
TomK

 

Hi Maria,
Where are you located?? I might want to buy your car if you're close enough and you want to sell it.

 

I take a different view, but I have a fairly high tolerance for nagging little issues with old cars, and a very low tolerance for car payments. The way I look at a decision like this (which I made myself last year) is: "what else are you going to get for $2000?" When my battery died, I figured I can fix all the non-hybrid type of repairs that old cars need myself (brakes, suspension, chassis stuff, etc.), and I am willing to take the chance that no major issues (inverter, transaxle) will get me before I get my money's worth out of the replacement battery. I paid $2600 for a brand new Toyota battery, including installation (thanks Avi!). That is perhaps a year's worth of payments for a decent used car, and much less than a year's worth for a new Prius. So the financial risk of "losing" the money you spent on the battery because something else fails soon after is relatively low (and you could sell your nearly new battery to recoup some of the cost, if it comes to that). Now if you are going to have to pay dealer rates for parts and service to fix the inevitable small stuff that comes up, then the calculation will obviously be different.

 

I may be giving you bad advise,but rather than spend that much money on a new one,I would look at getting a rebuilt ,or a good used one.. Than you are looking at spending 1000 or so rather than sinking 2000 in used car..Keep us posted

 

Be careful buying a rebuilt Gen1 battery unless it is from a local seller who will provide a warranty on the battery and installation costs if it has to be replaced again. It is a PITA to have your car out of service while you remove and $hip the heavy battery to the vendor.

Good used battery modules are getting tough to find. Original Gen1 modules are all too old and worn out so don't bother with them.

High milage Gen2's are starting to fail so demand for used Gen2 modules is way up. Gen2 modules are sought after to fix Gen2 cars.

Many "rebuilders" are using tired high mileage modules which fail within a few weeks /months so be careful out there.

 

Hi Prius Helpers
I have 2001 Prius 2001. I got P3006 code. Used the scanner and reset it . Then drove for few days and got the triangle and check engine light came on. Checked with scanner and found P3006 again. One of the mechanic check 12 V battery and said it is week change it. After replacing 12v battery I drove for few days and got code P3006. It was rather cold in Seattle 16 to 18F. Very unusual for Seattle. After talking to Toyota I took it to dealer for Diagnosis.
They gave me P3000 and P3006 code. But the detailed report shows all of the individual battery cells seems to be in range of 17.83 or so except 17 and 19 which are showing 18.07 and 18.11. Dealer recomended change of HV Battery.
I can not afford. I hope one of senior member can help in resolving this for me as I can not afford the cost. I have attached pdf of service report.
Please help.

 

I am kind of late to the discussion, But last month I listed my 2002 prius with 185,000 and in need of a new inverter for it to start on ebay. After 7 days it went for $3,050.

Personally, I say sell it. IMO, your prius has treated you VERY well. Before too much longer, it is going to turn into a money pit, and you will quickly get to the point where you do not trust the vehicle anymore.

 

This is true of any older car. Eventually, the unplanned, maintenance events will reach a point where the cost and unreliability is a burden of its own. If a second car and the owner can 'turn a wrench', the car can last many more years BUT the owner needs to 'turn a wrench.'

Bob Wilson

 

Yes indeed! But after replacing my inverter last year with a re-involt (uncle and I did it ourselves) and 16months later needing another one, Front wheel bearings being replaced, catalytic throwing codes periodically, And the battery pack nearing the end of its life was always in the back of my mind. I was starting not to trust the vehicle anymore. After investing over $2,000 within 12months of ownership, I gave up and let her go.

 

NinnJinn, how was your orverall experience with selling a car on ebay? I have sold many things on ebay but a car has to be different. Was it a PITA or smooth as what were the steps in getting the car the the buyer. Also, I commend you on selling the car on ebay and getting the much in return. These cars still must have some value even in a state where they are needing repair.
TomK

 

The P3006 code was probably logged at a moment when the module voltages show a greater variance than the voltages documented in the report, for example when the drivetrain is under a heavy load.

Whether or not you can afford it, the traction battery needs to be replaced. Look at "remanufactured" alternatives.

Alternatively, you might open up the traction battery case and see whether you can clean up any existing corrosion and tighten the busbar connections. That might give you some additional service life.

Good luck.

 

Do both. Keep the old Prius and continue driving it "gasoline only"...... but also look at the new Prius G3 or Civic Hybrid or Insight Hybrid ($19,000). Or maybe go really cheap and just buy a $13,000 Nissan Versa or Mitsibushi Mirage or Ford Fiesta sedan. They all get ~40mpg but without the expense/complication of a failing battery, inverter, electronics. My philosophy is:

- A car (or any appliance) is not truly "done" until it stops moving. I always drive it into the ground & then call a junk dealer to haul it off (they usually give you $500).

- But I always have a second new (or like new) car as backup for when the old car croaks 3-4 years from now.

IMHO

 

Hi Patrick
Is there any way I can know which modules are going bad under stress? When Temp rose in Seattle 2 weeks ago I cleared the code and drove 60 miles on highway and suddenly the death triangle went away and check engine light remained. Triangle actually comes only when I am city driving. I will try and open the case and see if I can clean up. I have read lots of posts and I guess this battery has been a problem.
Is there anything I can do or call Toyota corp because mileage is only 95 k. it is supposed to last well over 150k. I also understand Carb states have warranty extended to 150k and 10 years.
Do you guys think I have a case with Toyota?
Does cold temps have any issue with battery?
Please also give me names of Raman battery companies.

Thanks for your help.

 

In case you hadn't noticed, Toyota has improved this to IIHS satisfaction, and Prii built since November 2013 now have the IIHS Top Safety Pick (or Pick+ with the right equipment) rating. See Vehicle details:

 

This is not possible. The Toyota hybrid system must be fully functional to operate.

You need a way to measure module voltages when a load is placed on the battery. I believe this is beyond your technical ability.

Your understanding about the traction battery warranty is incorrect. The CARB warranty of 10 years/150K miles applies to model year 2004 and later because those cars are certified as AT-PZEV. Your car does not have that certification since it is model year 2001. The battery is 12 years old and well past its warranty expiration.

Dorman Hybrid Drive Batteries

 

Do a homebrew Lithium Ion battery swap ;-)

Mike

Mobile on my SGH-i717

 

Oh. Poster # 1 had she said is "essentially just driving the gas engine with no electric motor support." So I thought she could just keep going. I continue driving cars until they literally stop moving (and then have them towed to a junk dealer).

I hear Toyota has a new repair program to replace only the 1 module/stick that is failing, but I have zero details about it.

Aside: Only PZEV cars have the 150,000 mile warranty. Under this warranty (enforced by California and a few northeast states), if a car fails emission testing then Toyota, Chevrolet, etc are required to repair whatever component failed. Unfortunately the G1 is Not a PZEV.

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