Dealer oil change question...

I always advocate talking to the tech that is doing the work but that's just me. I think you have a strained relationship with your dealer for whatever reason. Maybe its time to make new friends at a different dealer.
-Paul R. Haller-
ex master diagnostician Volvo

 

I never go to a dealer unless I have no other recourse.

For 99% of my auto work, I patronize a local mechanic. He owns his own business, and his customers mean everything to him. His prices are extremely reasonable, he covers all of his work, looks out for my best interests. I own 5 vehicles, and he gets all of the work on them. He's been my mechanic for the past 20 years.

Support a local mechanic!

 

I've gone down that road, totally understand. Rather than flog a dead horse, and if possible: just started doing your own changes?

 

If you want to do it right, you do it yourself.

Here's a good and cheap dealer oil change repair tool.

Wel-Bilt Manual Oil Extractor | Oil Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

xliderider the whole scenario you presented had failure predetermined. To begin with, the folks that change the oil are not the ASE's that do the real work, but rather unlicensed, under paid personnel who's job depends on volume. I think an extended warranty is smart for some folks and it is good practice to document all maintenance, however by law in the US, oil service does not have to be done at the Dealership. Using a magnetic plug is also a good idea, but only if "you" monitor the condition during oil changes. Do you really think the described personnel will even look at it, let alone report it to the customer. I would be surprised if the mag plug was even installed, but if was, the old one probably just remained in the strainer until it was tossed with rest of the crap. Now for the oil, your conainer was probably just put on a shelf and they used the line hooked up to 55 gallon drums, hopefully the one with 0w-20 synthetic. Remember they are set up for speed and volume and squeezing the trigger is a lot faster than measuring out the customers jug. Then you had your Wife pick it up without confirming special instructions were complied with or checking the level prior to signing and taking delivery.

My respectful friendly advise:

First.......if you insist on buying the supplies and monitoring the mag plug, do it yourself.
Second...if you are going to have then do it, let them supply the consumables, show you the plug and check the level before you leave.
Three.....if you do not trust the Dealership and won't/can't do it yourself, take it somewhere else.
Four.......don't make your wife have to deal with the service department. Volumes can be written on how they take advantage of women in this overly sexist environment.

 

By supplying your own oil and filter and drain plug, THAT complicates the process for the oil change technician. How much do you really save by supplying your own parts and is it really enough to make it worth your while? I'm surprised dealers don't have an additional service charge when people do that. If you had used their oil (Toyota 0-20w syn), they will set their pump to exactly what's needed, but when you give them a 5 gallon jug, you're asking them to estimate how much to put in, plus follow your specific instructions on a low margin service item.

 

+1 ^ free service over, back to my local mech. plus, no hard sell on unnecessary service.

 

Light the Great Communicator said, "Trust, but verify."

However, 'cepting those here and a few others, most don't verify.

 

This is what I have been doing with all my Toyotas on warranty (basic one, I don't buy extended ones). This is due to the way Toyota treated people with the oil sludge fiasco over 10 years ago. When you have a history of maintenance at a dealer (not that expensive for oil changes only) , they are more receptive to do warranty work. They even said that themselves.

 

I agree 100% here.

 

Define better?

 

The basic human relations mistake made here by the OP was over-directing the dealer personnel. Providing his own oil, filter and detailed instructions was inferred to mean that he didn't trust them to use the correct parts or perform the job correctly. They responded in what is a very predictable and all too common manner by ignoring the direction and doing what was knowingly not what the OP wanted just to let him know they don't appreciate his kind of customer.

 

Better means basically optimum.

The upper limit is the level beyond which cavitation or foaming in the oil may occur, while the lower limit is where oil starvation might likely occur.

So, the design optimum must be somewhere in the middle.

 

Here's what I use;



Fram doesn't make it anymore, but you can still buy it on eBay.

Screwing the hole on starts the oil flowing. I can drain the oil into a collection bottle and take it to dispose at Walmart, which takes the bottle and oil together.

 

I put one of the Fram "Sure Drains" on at 3,300 mikes with the first oil change.

The dealer has made three more oil changes.

They just remove and replace the entire plug.

 

or the valve