I got into a wreck recently and have been thinking about buying a Prius. After doing research into my finances I've determined that I really need a used Prius or Prius c, as the most I can really spend is $15-17k after TTL. I rented a 2013 Prius to drive for a few days and see how I like it, and I do (other than that freaking center console being stretched out and covering the power outlet). So, I test drove a 2008 Touring and a 2010 III, and I liked both of them (the 2008 more), but decided that for a used car I wanted something around 50,000 miles or less so that I still had some time on the warranty for the battery and powertrain. The problem is, the internet pricing / 'no-haggle' pricing (ha!) for the 2010-11 Prius in the Austin area appears to be around $19,000 after TTL...which I feel is a bit high. Looking at the Kelley Blue Book app shows that the suggested retail on a 2010 Prius III is $16471, but I don't know if that is before TTL or not (presuming not, which would bring it to around $17,500). Are there any tips to getting a Prius without spending an arm and a leg, or would I be better off with a different car entirely? Now, I /do/ like driving the 2013 Prius I'm in now, but I have to take it back in a couple of days because the rental fees are high.
Perhaps your local market is messed up. With Internet search other cities and fly one way and drive home. You can probably negotiate via email and just show up and drive home. Used car consider a Toyota certified with Platimum extended warranty. May want to look at a Honda Civic. About the same price as a new C . They start at 17,000 2013 Honda Civic Prices: What Others Paid | U.S. News Best Cars True car web site may help
So basically are you saying that I shouldn't have to haggle when looking at the internet pricing, or should I? I mean, I don't have a problem walking into the dealership and saying, "I'll pay X before TTL" and going from there.
The last 3 cars I purchased I used the Internet. I got $3,000 off list on a $33,000 car. Just low ball offer them or ask them for best and final
TrueCar (and USAA) is bringing up the exact same prices as the 'Internet Price' that the dealership website is showing as well. So, on another topic: Is there any issue with getting a 2008 Prius with 88k miles, to where it should turn me away? The reason I'm asking is there's one available that is $13k before TTL.
This is my opinion. That us a low price and if it is within your budget that it should be ok. However that is a very high mileage. If your putting 12,000 to 15,000 miles a year the car should last awhile. If your doing 30,000 plus miles a year that may be a problem. Try and get a new or certified used with Toyota Platinum warranty
ou should know that in the 2010-2911 models a Prius 3 can bwe equipped either with or without Navagation and rear view camera (Nav was an option in those years). My 2011 2 is for sale and in your price range with 34000 miles, but the geography doesn't work, I'm in Southern California. I would suggest trying for a private party sale, prices should be lower, but I would imagine finding one with an extended warranty would be a stretch, I would think most of those cars will be kept by the first owners for a long time. Good luck in your search…..
That's the real problem. My credit is much less than stellar. I was approved for a 14% loan (which I'm not taking). I'm working on another one with a co-signer, so I'll see what interest rate I can get there. Obviously, I'm not telling the dealer any of this.
Right, and I'm working on that. So, with a Certified pre-owned from a dealership, can you get away with not doing the test drive? Just wondering, I found a 2009 Standard CPO on eBay for $13k with 67k miles. It's about 200 miles away, and would cost $200 to ship to me. Figure after TTL and shipping I'm looking at $14.5k. The expected retail is $13633, so I'm satisfied there. I know I like how the Prius in general drives, and with a CPO, if there's an issue I can take it to any Toyota dealer for repair, I believe.. I hate not to do a test drive, but ...
At only 200 miles away, I'd find some way to go and look at the car and drive it. Especially on e-bay where you could get burned. It's risky not to see the car, and would be even better if you could have a good mechanic look it over. Use caution going forward as you already said your credit is crap. You can't afford to make a major mistake on this.
I know, and I'm considering it. It's not from a private seller though, it's a dealership, if that matters.
I would inspect the car before any purchase if dealer or private party The Toyota Certified is under 50,000 miles and a mechanical inspection and 1 year warranty Toyota Certified Used Vehicles If you buy from a dealer try and get them to throw in the Toyota a Platinum warranty
Is it common for some dealers to agree to throw the platinum warranty in? I'm also considering a CPO Prius, and the first dealer I visited was pretty frustrating when it came to discussing warranty. Every time I'd ask them for details on what the standard CPO warranty covered, they'd respond by trying to tell me about the extended warranty they wanted to sell me. They seemed more interested in selling the warranty than in selling the car, so I'm wondering if it was just that dealer or if this is what I can expect from most dealers when discussing CPO's.
There is plenty of markup in warranty. I recall someone writing about it something like pricing varies from $1,200 to $3,500.
I'm in San Diego. I like the Gen 2's, but really want to make sure I get the standard CPO warranty + a good amount of time on the powertrain/hyrid warranties.
When I was car shopping, I found this site to be helpful: Used Cars, New Cars, Reviews, Photos and Opinions - CarGurus as well as autotrader.com
I found mine on cars dot (you know. I am not allowed to post it apparently...). I was lucky the dealership was having a $3000 internet discount and was pretty much asking for straight KBB (which ended up knocking a whole year off my financing). Looking at their oil change sticker, it has been on their lot for at least 6 months- hence the drop, especially for end of the year. December is actually the best time to buy since dealerships want them off their lots so they don't have to pay taxes on them. Depending on your credit/money down, you can probably really haggle them down some more.
