Hello, I reluctantly sold my Yaris sedan for a 2007 Prius. Dam... loved that Yaris but i needed better MPG and a bigger car with cargo space. I was averaging 5.9 L/HKm in October but i wanted more MPG. BTW... Im a Scangauge E user using some hypermiling technics. I was scouting for a G2 or a G3 Prius. I came across a 2007 that was owned by the Toyota Dealers daughter. It was well looked after with dealer PMs. Its a base Silver 2007. Quite happy so far. I do 75% highway driving. So far I am averaging 4.8 L/HKm. And thats with cool November Temps. I havent even learned to drive this car using all the fuel saving methods. I can do much better. So far this prius forum has been incredibly helpfull. What have I been up to ?? - installing the scangauge E on the compartment door below the radio - changing oil , plugs , wipers - blocking the front grill with foam pipe wrap - Did a calibration on the fuel gauge to improve weird readings - removed the plastic rings on the aluminum wheels - Mounting winter tires on steel rims using old Yaris 185/60/15 ( 3% smaller ) - searching high and low for second non-smart FOB. - Polished headlights to almost new shine. So, i have a few questions... 1 - whats up with the fuel tank bladder? Acting weird at low end. 2 - are the slightly smaller 185/60/15 winter tires a MPG issue (3% speedo error) ? 3 - any scangauge tips ? I am trying to understand the part about using the ICE without guilt. Accelerate when needed and then coast or glide. My foot needs training to fine tune feathering and getting into electric mode. Also when the car is the Electric motor/Battery mode... the Battery will eventually need to be charged via ICE or Regen. Basically I need not focus on driving in Electric mode more than the car decides to do. Any MPG tips appreciated. thanks Michael Ontario,Canada
The smaller winter tyres will make the MFD fuel consumption figures even more optimistic than it already was. Expect it to give numbers about 5 or 6 mpg higher than the real world figures. I do not see any other complications. The speedo will be optimistic as will the oddo. John (Brtprius)
Yeah that's basically right, though with pulse and glide you'll find that you actually have quite a bit of control over when the engine cuts in and out with some practice. The better you get at this technique then the more time you can spend "gliding" in electric mode, but if you get too good at it then the state of charge (SOC) may start to fall, and this is somewhat undesirable**. So the real key to hypermiling is to make best use of the limited amount of electric power and use it only when most appropriate. Generally this means trying to using electric mode mostly when the required power is relatively low, and knowing to "kick on" the ICE when power is needed and avoid letting the SOC drop low. ** Once the SOC drops too low then the fuel consumption goes up. Additionally you lose much of the control that you normally have over when the ICE is on or off.
In answer to question #1: the fuel bladder is made out of rubber, so when it's cold it will not hold as much fuel as in summer and fill to fill it will vary, that's why the gen 3 does not have a bladder. I had experience with that driving a friends 2005 Prius from Los Angeles to St. Paul in the fall of 05. So, it's just something you will have to live with, still a great car however….
thanks for the replies... Uart, that was a well written response. i will surely get better with using the EV Mode sparingly. Basically i need to resist using EV mode and sieze the opportunities of low demand for HP and low speed when i do want to drive EV. I will need to eventually payforthose KWatts. I have trouble understanding why some go as far as installing a EV switch ? If the road and programed conditions to drive EV are presented, you will eventually need to pay for those KWatts. Basically.... 1 Km in EV mode = >1 Km of Regen driving In plain English, get ready to pay for those KWatts in EV mode. michael
thanks for the reply. The tank reads full after a fillup. but, as soon as it gets to half its a quicker drop to the last pip. i guess i will use my scangauge E fuel tank readings. what im afraid of is that the 45 liter tank will dry up at 40 liters of fuel consumption. i will need to know the answer in the event i travel well away from the city. i dont want to learn this at a bad time. i never drive empty but the ladies in my house may over estimate the remaining gas. i might need to drive it close to empty to find out. michael
I installed my EV switch so I could use up some battery before going down a big hill. I live at the top a a big hill. If I start out with one green bar, I will certainly overcharge the battery before I get to the bottom of the hill (when this happens, the motors stop operating in regen mode and the friction breaks are used 100%). I'm going to end up with a maxed out battery either way. I might as well not spend fuel doing it.
I notice it's usually 80km/pip for the first half and 50km/pip for the second half of the tank when the car was new (2005). Technically the fuel tank is metal but has a rubber bladder inside of it (so it's not just a rubber bladder). I installed the EV switch so that I can move the car in/out of the garage without the engine firing up when I want to wash the car and there are sections along the commute where I know it can be in EV mode in the summer so in the cooler autumn or spring weather, I can force the car into EV Drive mode and glide down that stretch (instead of having the car idle the engine as I lightly coast) and then take it out of EV Drive mode when I come into the section that requires some motive power.
thanks for the reply. Can I ask what you do when you return home and need to climb the hill ? Whats the charge status of your batteries when you get home or the morning? I have managed to drive EV on my drive home after exiting the highway. Maybe 3-5 kms. In the morning on my way to work, the batteries are about 70%. Regardless, my ICE runs to warm up the emissions and the cabin just a bit. michael
Not much I can do. I let the ICE run and propel my car up the hill. Fortunately, the steep hill isn't the only way to go from my house. My path to the freeway is more normal.
Once the warranty is up I plan to swap '12 Yaris for '12 Prius C so I fully understand! ( I might even get tempted to splurge on a GEN IV by then, too much temptation)
the 07 Yaris was a great car. Same 1.5L engine as the 2007 prius. Made in Japan. Great MPG. I just needed more space, more MPG and more CAR. The Yaris was difficult to trade away. I actually pay slightly less for car Insurance for the 2007 Prius. That was nice. The personal injury rating was higher on the yaris. Both of these Toyota products can manage 300,000 miles of highway driving easily. Im a 75% highway driver. Owning a Yaris is not a bad deal. michael
If you intend running the Prius low on fuel remember two things:- (1) Do not run on the battery if the car runs out of fuel. If you run the battery to low it will not start the car. A recharge at the dealer means them ordering in a special charger, and this can take days or weeks. (2) If you run out of fuel it takes 3 gallons before the Prius knows you have put fuel in, one gallon will not work. John (Britprius)
