Ah. I figured as much! I wonder where the indicator signal comes from? Surprised none of these bright mod guys have nailed that one yet....
I read somewhere that it's a dash light (like Cruise and AC) in the non NA cars, but don't quote me on that. But if it is, that would probably make it much more difficult to intercept and add your own signal light to that line, depending on how the mini-HUD is assembled. Something like can-view, which talks to the car can read it, but there's no can-view for the 06's. Somewhere there was talkof a can-light, that just reads the bus and lights up leds, no MFD display, but I don't think that went anywhere for lack of demand. I'd try to work on something, but I just don't have the time at the moment... Edit: Has anyone disassembled, and possibly taken pictures of the mini-hud circiutry, or perhaps have a wiring diagram? -Ken
Darell: Will 2 emitters with a forward voltage of S(5.91V - 6.39V) work in series with 12v? I was thinking about trying my hand at the Luxeon lottery and making a few backup lights for my Prius
If you watch the energy screen while that is happening, you'll observe the electric motor driving the wheels. When you are releasing pressure for your smooth stop, the car goes into its 'creep' mode (like a conventional automatic with the brake released), and thus it becomes a little battle between the motor and the brakes. I noticed the same thing, but I just brake accordingly. It is still possible to do those super-smooth stops, just takes a little re-training.
I don't know the combination meter CPU on the US model does know the EV mode CAN message from the Hybrid ECU or not, but the wiring diagram is copyrighted. http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=15455&st=20 Ken@Japan
AC refers to cold and hot. So whether you are heating the cabin or cooling it you are conditioning air. So being in auto mode will always make the AC button lit.
The first thing to realize is that you aren't working with 12V. More like 13.8 when the car is "Running." I haven't checked the Prius yet, but that's somewhat standard. V has to be highter than nominal to keep the battery charged. That said, yes, it would likely work, but it likely wouldn't survive very long. Anyway, I'll give the longer answer on the light thread.
Yeah, in this case think of AC standing for "Automatic Climate" rather than "Air Conditioning." You're using the Flasher method at the moment, right? Or did you get the 2006 one from Sigma?
Then that begs the question: Why can I make the cabin hot *manually* with the AC button off? If I'm heating manually, does it make a difference if the AC button is on or off? I'd think so, since I'd want the choice of heat plus dehumidify, or just heat. Still confused... but I really appreciate all this input!
Yup. High-beam activation. I'm trying to keep my sig updated with that kind of info. I'm still working with Sigma to try and get the 2006 factory button package together. The button we know about... the connector on the back is still the problem.
I've only been in one car that had such an indicator. A Nissan Xterra, it had a SET light next to the CRUISE light. My dad's previous car (a Volvo) only has CRUISE in amber under the clock. His current car (BMW) and my mom's current car (Mini) both have a green cruise control icon, but no set indication either. Five more times, then you'll get used to it. ;-) You can turn A/C compressor off after switching into auto mode, and the climate control will otherwise stay in auto mode. I don't know the answer to the other questions. I generally turn the A/C compressor off in the winter, but that certainly could be doing nothing but adding fingerprints to the display. I doubt they put any special effort into those switches... I think most every Toyota works that way. The cargo light won't turn off automatically. The dome lights do. The headlights turn off when you open the driver's door, but if you turn them back on or exit another way they will drain the battery. The glove compartment light is on when the headlights are on, even when closed.
Cruise control... 1. First problem: "On" status forgotten with car reboot. I'm used to just leaving CC in the ON position all the time, and then just setting it when I want to use it. In the Prius, I have to turn the system ON every time before use (after power cycle). Not sure I see the advantage. I agree -- it's been one of my pet peeves 2. Second problem: No indication of CC being "set." I like to know when Cruise is set - especially after going down a long hill where I've coasted faster then the setting, or I've manually accelerated faster than the setting. Am I missing an indicator here? I've never been in a car that didn't tell me the Cruise was set. I've owned 3 Nissan Maxiimas -- an '85, a '90, and an '00. The '85 had a "set" light, the other two have not. I still miss it! One other "pet peeve" I've had is that the lighting around the cup holders is poor. This, added to the fact they are black in the first place. I was on a dark road with a thermos of coffee in the cup holder, picked it up to drink, then had a terrible time "finding" the cup holder again (It had a lid, but dropping that when missing the cup holder would still be a mess). Thought about the reading light, but finding that button in the dark is also a trick!
With the highbeam mod do you go around flashing your brights at everyone a lot? As for the A/C question, the AC pump only runs when the car thinks it needs it. If its dry out and my windows are clear I will force A/C off. As long as A/C auto is on you shouldnt need the defroster on unless you are melting ice in the wintertime.
Thanks for the input, 404. Man... doesn't anybody else drive a Honda? All my Hondas had the set indicator, and so did my volvo. All aftermarket Cruise Controls that I've installed have had a set indicator lead as well. Regardless, the seat indicator is very handy, and I miss it! Ah, OK. It would appear that I'm doing just fine in manual mode, so I may not spend any time in auto mode anyway. Not sure I see the big benefit. I like to set my own fan speed, etc. I guess I'm too old school. OK, here I have to disagree! There are THREE separate switches for the "makeup" light on the sun visor. Three. I think that indicates effort beyond the call of duty! Can't manage a Cruise Control set indicator, but we get THREE switches for the makeup light (three on each side, that is!) that I'll never use? OK, I guess we've got that covered. I'm still wondering about the white lights on the buttom of the front doors. Are they tied to the domes? Anybody know how long they stay lit before turning off?
Hmmm. I could certainly fix that easy enough, since there's 12V switched power right there anyway. I see the Prius Hood's deal, but no details or sales info???
The brights only come on if the low beams were on first. Otherwise, nothing lights when the stalk is pulled for EV mode. So far it really hasn't been a problem. I have them like this just so I could have the functionality while I wait for the factory switch. One GREAT advantage is that I can find the switch in a hurry with no fumbling around the dash. I may just leave it this way.
Whoa! I almost let this one slip away. There is a glove box light? I had no idea. I'll be checking that out just as soon as my car is back from the tinter....
That's odd. The light is $21 + $3 s/h. Normally you click on the eBay store link and get one from there, but I don't see one there. You may have to email them and see if it's available.
I have the factory switch for mine. I had to make a wiring harness for the switch but if you have a really old (P1) computer power supply laying around you can use the retainer sockets from one of the motherboard connectors. Otherwise I have a set I can send you, it requires 4- 2 for the switch and 2 to attach to the dimmer circuit.