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Intermittent starting problem 2002 Prius

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Wisco, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Hi all,

    Greetings from the proud owner of a 2002 Prius. We bought it about a month ago, and it seems to be in great condition with 163k miles. We bought it from a mechanic who picked it up cheap at an auction with a bad HV battery. He had the battery repaired, and did some mechanical work himself before flipping it.

    The only issue we've had is that it sporadically will not start. The dash lights up and everything seems normal, but the READY light doesn't appear. The first time it happened we assumed we simply didn't know the secret trick to start our strange new vehicle. After several tries it started up and ran great so we figured it was our fault.

    That night it happened again. We had vacuumed it earlier that day, and left the key on ACC with the radio on for 30 minutes. I didn't think that would drain the battery, but the PO had mentioned that he didn't actually drive much so I thought it could have already been low. The battery tested at 12.1 and dropped to 11.8 when the key was turned to START. I trickle charged it overnight, but it still wouldn't start in the morning.

    The other suspect was the key. We had it duplicated, not realizing the chip inside was required to start the car. We tried the duplicate key first (didn't work), but then tried the original and that also didn't work. That afternoon I tried it again (with the original key) and it started fine and ran normally. The problem disappeared for a few weeks.

    Two days ago we drove 400 miles to a wedding. We stopped for a break 50 miles from our destination. When I got back in the car it wouldn't start. Once again the READY light just didn't appear, everything else seemed normal.

    I had an inverter with a digital display, which showed 12.1 at the power point. I hooked it directly to the battery and it read 12.5. Shortly afterwards I turned the key and our Prius started right up. We made it to the wedding on time, and had an uneventful trip home.

    I want to fix this, but I'm new at Prius troubleshooting, plus I can't replicate the problem. Here are my thoughts, hopefully you can steer me in the right direction..

    I know AGM batteries are a little different, but 12.5 is still low for a battery after 350 miles of charging. Will a weak battery cause intermittent failure to start? And if it is the battery, why doesn't charging help (at least temporarily)? This Prius has been modified to accept Miata batteries, in case it's relevant.

    The only way the key could be involved is if the detection gizmo in the car intermittently failed to detect the chip in the key. Doesn't seem likely to me. We have two chipped keys. Neither works when this problem occurs.

    My last suspect is that some sensor somewhere is malfunctioning, like a shifter position sensor or brake sensor. Do those ever cause trouble?

    What else could do this? I assume if there were codes to read a dash light would come on?

    Thanks for your time, I'm glad to join the community.
     
  2. davestr

    davestr Junior Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
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    From experience, 2001-2003 Prius act very strangely if the aux battery is not up to snuff, including not starting.
    My teenage daughters in our 2001 have run the aux down and bingo, no joy.
    Have replaced it twice. They dont like deep cycling.
     
  3. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Good to know, Davestr.

    I thought a weak battery might cause electrical chaos, but I was hesitant to jump to that conclusion since it doesn't actually turn over the ICE. I'll pull it out, check the water (if possible), charge it, load test it, and see if how it performs.

    When I mentioned the weak battery to the PO he dismissed it, saying "that battery just runs the computer and closes relays.. The car would start with a 10v battery." Maybe that's why he put it in our car before he sold it to us. ;)
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I'm not quite ready to call it the 12V battery. Under any sort of load, 12.8-11.9 V. is a functional range . . . but the car is somewhat sensitive to the 12V operation:
    • Original battery lasted 2003 to 2009
    • Second battery lasted 2009 to 2013
    On our car, the fob operated door locks failed in the last year when the battery was weak. I could still start the car but the doors would not lock or unlock even standing next to the car. Yet I've seen the car run with voltages as low as 10.9 V . . . not reliably but still.

    It is Fall and cooler weather tends to fail weaker 12V batteries. It is in the unheated trunk.

    Bob Wilson
     
  5. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I can't say for sure it is the 12V battery but I can say that a weak 12v battery will def cause these symptoms. The only other thing that could cause this is a bad connection to the 12v battery. Although I do see 12.5V as a good voltage, that doesn't mean it will hold up to a load or even have much current. The thing that makes me think you might have a bad connection is that you checked the voltage on the battery when you had the problem then the car started after that. I'm thinking you may have jiggled the connection and made it good.

    I know these cars do seem different, puzzling, confusing etc but in reality they are not harder to troubleshoot than any other car. They do give different symptoms but you have Prius Chat to help you.

    If I were in your shoes, I would take the battery out, clean all connections and replace with a new one. You can either order an Optima, or a stock battery from Toyota. Or Bob (above) has a unique solution for a Gen I battery that he can direct you to.

    My diagnosis is, your 12V battery is weak and is causing this problem (I'm especially convinced of this when you said the problem occurred after listening to the radio). You say you can't duplicate the problem but, I'll bet you can by listening the radio for about thirty minutes :).

    Try that and let us know what happens but I'm confident that will fix it.
     
  6. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    Do the dash lights dim when you try to start? If so, try jumping the 12V battery. You could have 12+ volts but not enough amps under load.
     
  7. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    No, the dash lights don't dim. At least not that I noticed.

    This weekend I'll test the battery to see what voltage drop I get at different amperages. If I drain the battery a bit I might be able to recreate the problem too. It could also be that the conversion to accept the miata battery resulted in higher resistance.

    According to this site (Prius Startup Current) the load on startup is usually 30A or less, with a highest recorded at 60A. Neat article.

    Thanks everyone for your input, it's great to see this is such an active forum!
     
  8. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Turns out, that battery is young. From the sticker it looks like it was purchased the month before we bought the car, and manufactured a year before that. So I'm going to try pepping it up before replacing it.

    After a few hours charging at 2 amps it was at 12.5 volts. I applied an 8 amp load and it dropped to 11.6. I charged it at 2 Amps for about another 16 hours. It's at 12.7 now (after removing the surface charge).

    I'm going to do a bit more research on testing AGM batteries and I bet the auto parts store can do a more definitive load test. Unless you all have ideas..
     
  9. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Here's the conversion setup for the battery.. There wasn't any resistance in the terminals or negative to ground connection.

    image.jpg
     
  10. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    If only an 8 amp load causes the voltage to sag to 11.6 I'd say the battery is toast. Even though it's young, it may be defective. Hopefully it's still under some kind of warranty. Have it load tested at your FLAPS.

    Hard to tell from photo but it might be some kind of custom setup. (i.e. not a "dealer battery")
    If it's a 51R you can get them at FLAPS, Costco etc.
     
  11. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I concur with Paul. That's way too much drop. Like he said, a young battery can be bad just like an old one.
     
  12. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Alright, I came to my senses and ordered a battery to pick up tomorrow. I went with a Deka miata battery. Bit pricey, but it has a 3 year warranty.

    I just hate giving up on batteries. I think I'll hang on to this one to use in another project. We are building a tiny house on a flatbed trailer, and I have a uninterruptable power supply that could use this AGM to keep the lights on. Long term I'd like a good battery for that purpose too, but until I design the solar setup (and know our energy needs) I don't want to buy a dedicated deep cycle battery.

    It will be good to have a battery I trust in our #1 car (the #2 car is a true #2 car in all senses, and is barely road worthy).

    Thanks everyone for your help. I'll certainly post here if the problem persists, though I doubt it will.
     
  13. Wisco

    Wisco Member

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    Update: The car has been starting great since I put in the new battery, seems that was the culprit.

    Anyone with similar problems would be wise to check their 12 volt.

    Thanks to everyone who weighed in.
     
    yotatoter likes this.