I wee bit of background. I'm a huge fan of modifying things, and never leave anything I buy the way it was when I bought it. I have a pretty well-equipped shop, and people actually regularly PAY me to do stuff for them! I have not, however, ever removed pins from automotive connectors like this. I've been collecting all the known mod instructions for a month now, and my Prius just came in yesterday. I went right at it, and started to retrieve the extra pins from the flasher connector behind the steering wheel. I read about people "using a paperclip to start them" etc. For the life of me, I cannot get the pins OUT! And here I thought the big problem was putting them back IN for the EV mod. Ug. I hate to admit defeat, but I've already bunged one pin up trying to remove it, and don't want to screw up more! I have all kinds of small, strong specialty tools here for some miniature work I do on LED flashlights. I have pushed on those pins as hard as I can, and nothing budges. What the hell am I doing wrong?! I'm trying to back them out (removing them as if I'm pulling them out by the wire), but ain't nothing moving!
Well, I've never done it on the Prius, but assuming the connectors from which you which to steal some pins are similar in nature to the ones used inside a computer for power supply connections, it's actually pretty straight forward. The pins themselves are usually a piece of springy metal that was rolled into a tube. There are two thin strips of metal sliced out of the pin that flare out and lock the pin in place. When the connectors are made, the pins are pushed through the back of the white nylon connector block and the two thin strips are pushed flush to the pin as it slips through the hole in the connector. When the pin is pushed all the way into the connector, the two thin strips flare out and lock the pin in, kind of like a barb on a fishing hook. To remove a pin, you can use tweasers or long nose pliers to press the two thin strips flush with the pin, allowing it to slip back through the hole in the connector.
It wasn't that complicated....but it's been over 2 years since I did it and can't remember the exact technique. Whatever it was it was fairly easy though. Lemme look at my KB article and see if it triggers my memory.
3) 2 little clips keep a cover locked in place. Pull those apart and remove the cover. Inside you'll see lines of silver connector pins--some with wires attached, some without. http://www.priuschat.com/forums/album_thum....php?pic_id=219 Click for full image You should remove between 1 and 3 of those pins--2 is probably safe, 3 might be better, since if you plan to install an OEM button at some point, you'll probably need more pins for that. (You need one pin for the procedure, but it's handy to have a back-up.) To remove the pins, you can use your paper clip to start the process of sliding them out, and then they just pull right out. http://www.priuschat.com/forums/album_thum....php?pic_id=217 Those are the instructions for that part of the process. Did you remove the cover? (gotta assume so). If so, I'm not at all sure what's causing the difficult.
I got ya covered, Darell. I have a tool for you. If you refer to the Wiring Harness Repair manual, you'll see the tools required (pdf attached). The larger tool can be simulated using a tiny pocket screwdriver. I bought one at an electronics store for less than a $1.00. The second tool, for the tiny pins, is harder to make. I made one the following way: In the electronics store, I noticed a very small "test lead" connector, designed to clip on to wires or other terminals. It had a curve on the end, but was otherwise perfect. I was able to cut off the curve using side cutters. Now, I had the perfect tool. Again, under $1.00. I can send you one if you need it. Nate
Here's the secret: Look at this photo carefully from the instructions posted in the KB here. http://www.priuschat.com/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=217 See *exactly* where the paperclip is being applied? That is the point where you must apply pressure downward to compress the little metal latch. If you press just right, right there, then the pin will slide right out with almost no force required. If you do not press that metal tab down, it will catch on the white plastic, and prevent the pin from coming out. All the pulling, pushing, and pokeing in the world elsewher will only result in bloody fingers. (Obviously - I learned this the hard way) -Ken
Thanks Marlin and efusco....and Nate. I can't see the barbs, but I'm sure they must be there. Nobody seems to mention them in the "instructions." Just, "slide them out." Yes, I've certainly got everything apart. It was the only way to get at the pins to screw them up! I've got my small, flat driver, a small curved one, industrial tweezers, etc. But pushing on those as shown in any of the instructions I've seen doesn't do a darn thing besides deform them if I push hard enough. You don't know how embarrassing it is to ask for help with the part that should be trivial! I read the instructions and there are details on how to split the connector in half!? That I can tell by looking at it, and using my nails, presto. I have the thing open. But try to move a pin!? No sir. To make myself feel better, I'm in the middle of doing something I can accomplish - converting the cargo light to a current-regulated 1W LED. When I'm done with that, I'll look at Nate's note and see if it gives me that little lightbulb over my head. I had to stop, or risk doing MORE damage. Grrr. Thanks for the reply guys.
Yes, that's what I mostly use. 1W and 5W. This year 10W will be released, followed by the 20W. We won't be seeing incandescents around much longer (except HID). Here's my light page. I don't spend much time on it, so don't expect much. The automotive link might be the most interesting to this group. http://darelldd.com/light/
Aw hell! Now, I love the rest of you guys ('specially YOU Nate), but Ken here is getting some flowers. THIS is exactly what I needed to hear! I totally missed where the barb was, and WHOMP, there it is. Group hug. This board is great, and it is because of members like all of you who jump right in and offer help
It looks like maybe kdmorse posted the trick a couple of posts above. Never having seen the connector, I was a little off base, but not completely. There's always a barb that locks the pin on these types of connectors. kdmorse's post shows where to push with a paperclip to release the barb.
I thought it was 1W 3W 5W and the new K2 will be 5 watt too but more efficiant. (sorry if I'm hijacking your thread, I'm bad about that). I have an account at flashlightforums.com For some reason I'm having trouble registering at CPF, the moderators ignore my request for a new confirmation email too...
Man, I got so excited when I got back out there. I removed ALL the pins. Took about four seconds. In the meantime, I'm done with the cargo LED conversion. I'll likely build up a few for sale after I test it for a bit. Should be a great drop-in mod though. Consumes 1.1W and produces more light than the factory. Ah, and 40 minutes later, the "high beam" EV mod is complete and everything is buttoned up. So the score is this: 2 hours hours to remove pin from under steering wheel. 40 minutes to actually do the mod. :sigh: Thanks guys!
Yup, you were right on it, Marlin! I was just randomly pushing and pulling wherever the hell I could. Knowing just where to look for that mystery barb was the trick that made it about as easy as falling down.
The K2 is already out, and far LESS efficient (depending on current) than a Lux3. I'm not a big fan of the K2s by any means. Mostly their only advantage is that they can HANDLE more current. They don't do much with it, but at least they don't melt. The 10W is due for release in a few months, and the 20W is awesome. Uh -oh. I'm an administrator on CPF. The board does have some issues. Please email (not PM!) me your username and any other pertinent info, and I'll see what I can find. FlashlightForums is great if your a fan of CPF bashing though!
Hey darell, your page inspired me to finally go out and get an LED retrofit kit for my ancient creaky maglite. . WRT connector pins, I've found that it is well worth taking a decent magnifier and a strong light [even an original maglite will do, heh] to the connector in question and just *wiggle* the wire in and out and stare at it up really close at various focal depths until you reall understand which bits are moving and which arent and what might be blocking outward progress of which else. Usually the right tab to push becomes self-evident pretty quickly. . Break out the "ol' man magnifier headpiece" for actually doing the work if you need to. . At this point I've got a fair assortment of wire bits and rods, all ground down to a half-chisel shape like in the diagrams, and I think I can back out just about any pin in the car now. Even so, the small ECU pins are still a little tricky because getting their retainer barbs to go relies on the *thickness* of the tool you shove into the proximal hole, and the one I've got for that is a wee bit thin to totally fill the space. . _H*
