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Photoblog repair with tech questions

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by squad51, Aug 25, 2013.

  1. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    First off I want to say I have been looking at buying a Prius for some time. I am a full time firefighter, and have been very impressed at the safety as well as the fuel mileage I have seen with them. I have a few friends that have bought them, and alas I now have taken the plunge.
    I am an experienced mechanic and know how to do body work, so buying a total loss prius was not a scary thing for me. I have been looking around a lot, and finally found one that was decent and not hurt too bad. So, I picked up a 07 with 110k for $4500 on Friday. I will be doing all the repairs and I hope that folks will be able to help me out on some of the more technical points if needed. As you can see, not too bad in the crunch category, but enough to total it.

    I don't have any questions about the bodywork but I do have a few questions about some of the issues that I have with the car right now. Just looking for guidance and support.

    1-the car will not going to ready mode and I cannot take it out of park to move it which was quite frustrating as I had to use Jacks and sweat to get into the garage. The radiator is smashed in the car is empty of coolant so I assume that it might have something to do with that but I would like some guidance in this area.

    2-The only airbag went off is the steering wheel airbag. So I assume that after I replace that air bag and Clock spring, do I need to reset the ECU and also do I have to change any of the crash sensors in the vehicle? All, some, or none? They have no visible damage. Also is the fact that an airbag has been deployed, a safety feature for not letting the vehicle going to ready mode? Yes the 12v battery was completely dead when I got it as well, it is holding a charge but I'm skeptical on the reliability of it. I read all over the forum that the 12v battery can cause a ton of issues.

    3-all the warning lights are lit, including the red death triangle. Again, being in a crash, bad battery, ect, could cause this? I have ordered a tech stream knock off from eBay, so when that comes in I will be able to pull codes.

    4- got the salvage yard to throw in an extra key fob. I'm very excited about this because I heard I can program this(?) to work with my car. Do I have smartkeys or do I have just the regular Fobs? I thought all of them had smartkeys...I do have the small unlock push buttons on the door handles.

    Ok here's some pictures. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP. Also I fully understand the ra ra ra that some have with a salvaged car, I am an adult and have bought several, just no prii before.

    Photo 2

    Let the madness begin. The garage has now been taken over by the prius wreckus Maximus .

    Fender and rad, condenser, bumper cover, supports, headlights, ect out. Not as bad as I thought...

    Only actual structural damage! Just the front bumper post mount. Easily pulled out! Yea!
     

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  2. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    May sound a silly question, but did you hold your foot firmly on the brake when trying to make the car ready.

    John (Britprius)
     
  3. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    After you get a good 12V on, and your mini VCI, you will be able to assess the situation much better, so no point in trying anything until then. You will be able to reset the air bag ECU when the air bag is replaced. You don't want to try and run the car now anyway, because in ready mode the inverter coolant pump will turn on, and without coolant, dry running would possibly harm the pump. Same for the engine and CHRS pumps. (Someone correct me if that is wrong.)


    As for the fobs, the silver logo ones are for SKS, the black logo are non-SKS. If the car has a "Key" buton under the steering column, then it is SKS equipped. You should be able to register additional keys with the software, assuming they are new from the dealer.
     
  4. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    I did have my foot on the brake, but my buddy had that "issue" before. My thoughts are the same...never a good idea to run a car without coolant. It's always hard to get the smoke back in the electronics after it comes out...

    Two questions- I do have the smartkey. I acquired an additional key from the junkyard, but it does not have the silver logo. Can I program this to work with my car as a back up key?

    With the airbag deployed in the steering wheel, does this mean I must replace the clock spring? And with tech stream I assume it will tell me if one of the crash sensors is bad?

    Thanks!
     
  5. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    If you replace the airbag first Techstream will tell you if the clock spring is intact, but be careful when fitting the replacement airbag that the two connectors are fully home before locking the in place. Not doing this will produce the same code as an open circuit clock spring. I will post the fault codes and meanings later today.

    John (Britprius)
     
  6. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    Just as a pass on, this guy on eBay is selling manuals for less than ten bucks! Item number 271263956305 ...thank you Brit for the advice. I am going to buy the clock spring as the wires to the airbag are damaged.
     
  7. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Once everything is back together you may have to send off the airbag ECU to be reset before it can be used. Toyota does not do this preferring to sell a new ECU, but if you Google you will find companies that will reset the ECU usually on a same day turn around.
    The circuits for the steering airbag are called squibs, and there are two circuits both consisting of two wires each that run from the ECU up through the clockspring and to the airbag. The fault codes for each circuit are as follows:-

    B1801. Open circuit in drivers side squib circuit. This is the black connector
    B1800 Short circuit in drivers side squib circuit. ^
    B1811. Open circuit in drivers side squib circuit dual stage second step. This connector "from memory" is yellow
    B1810 Short circuit in drivers side squib circuit dual stage second step. ^

    If the connectors are not fitted properly to the airbag any of these codes can be output as the airbag has small shorting links across it's connecting pins that are pushed out of the way as the connectors are pushed fully home. The shorting links are designed to stop static electricity setting off the airbag while it is being handled.

    John (Britprius)
     
  8. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    Yes, you should be able to make that work, using the slot in the dash.
     
  9. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    Do I need to replace the front airbag crash sensors "automatically" since the car was in a frontal crash? Or will a dtc scan reveal this?
     
  10. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    Also check that the seatbelt tensioners didn't blow, if they did, your seatbelts will be locked and they'll need to be changed. You'll have so send the airbag ECU out to be reflashed (under the dash right above "the hump"). Folks on Ebay can do it.

    Check for broken wires under hood/fenders. One broken wire can cause the car to not go ready. Check that your brake lights work...blown fuse in brake light circuit will prevent car from going READY.

    Check that the orange plug on the Hybrid battery is seated properly...if not pressed all the way down no way car will go ready.

    If only the ends of the clockspring connectors are melted you can buy replacements on Ebay, cheaper than an entire new clockspring.

    All the front end parts are available aftermarket Keystone etc.
     
  11. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    I got most of the parts coming. Wrestled with the radiator support and got it out.
    Thanks for all the advice. Can't wait to get the scan tool in and pull the codes.
    The drivers seat belt activated, I ordered it.

    Do I really need high voltage gloves to pull the orange interlock in the trunk?
     

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  12. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    No you do not. The output ends of the battery are isolated by the HV relays and the two "halves" of the battery at the link are at the same potential (joined together by the link).

    John (Britprius)
     
  13. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    NOT AT ALL. The orange plug is electrically in the middle of the HV battery. (it's in series with the smaller batteries) You can you remove the orange plug, stick two knives into the pins on the socket the orange plug mates with with wet hands and still not got hurt. (well maybe get hurt from the knives but not from electricity).
     
  14. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    My probation officer said no knives...

    How the heck do you get these stupid spring clips off? Tried for an hour with the sst an no dice! $())&@&!!!

    Wire cutters it is, I am just going to buy a new clip
     

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  15. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    Frame straight!
     

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  16. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    Rad support and rad in!
     

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  17. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    When getting ready for paint I hooked up the battery. The horn is stuck on. The airbag is new, as well as the clock spring. Am I missing something?
     
  18. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    The only way for the horn to be stuck on is if the horn relay has failed in the on position (not likely), or there is a short to ground between the horn relay coil and the switch on the steering wheel. The most likely cause in my guessitmation would be a damaged harness that has bare wires chafing against the chassis.

    Otherwise it could be a problem with the clock spring install, but I have not been in there so can't really say.

    First try pulling the horn relay, and note that the horn goes off. Then test continuity on the coil connections in the socket. One should be 12V and the other should be open circuit, referred to chassis ground. If it shows continuity to ground instead, then that is where the tracing will start.
     
  19. squad51

    squad51 New Member

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    Well I have a car all back together now and I even got started yesterday the red triangle death is off. However this horn problem is perplexing me because I cannot figure out where the short. I remove the dashboard and from the wiring diagrams have traced it all the way back to the driver's-side junction box. When I disconnect that connector my meter indicates that from the relay connection back is not shorting to ground. However if I metered the connection from the junction box back to the steering column I'm at zero ohms to ground which tells me it is shorting somewhere. Anybody with technical experience know a common place for this short? I followed it to connector number one and can't seem to find any shorts however there is a lot of wires!
     
  20. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I would suggest you remove the air bag and check under there for possible damage to the horn contacts.

    John (Britprius)