I needed more light in the hatch and I wanted it to be hidden. I don't like the big light bars that were used in another hatch light mod. It cost $18.00 in materials. 4 - LEDs 1 - toggle switch power switch A few connectors from an old PC. I ran only one power (red wire) to the hatch LEDs. The other side (black ground) I wired to a ground lug with an eyelet. So I used the ground inside the hatch. Caution: Be careful removing the hatch panels. I broke some plastic plug holders when I yanked on it to fast. Use a panel removal. The plugs still go back in, ok. The final night view No LEDs. With LEDs. So I got these very tiny but bright leds from Oznium. There are actually 4 LEDs in each one called "Extremely bright prewired superflux 4 chip 12v LED". Here's the mod so far. It's not done but these pics show how far I am. Here's the pop out panels that can be replaced if I need to go back to stock again. By the way that is one dorky switch how the whole bulb moves back and forth to switch on or off the light in the hatch. Perform at your own risk, I'm only documenting my experience. my2cents
Very nice, I'd like to do this also. Can you take some picture with the LED on and shine on the ground, thanks.
Funny you should mention ground. I decided to add two more LEDs on the corners of the hatch in the plastic to get ground lighting. Since I use JB weld, I use a little at a time and hold the LED initially with some rubber putty to tack glue it in place so the LED is centered in the hole, than add a second layer around the LED. The parts are still gluing and I am looking for some wire connectors to disconnect the wiring to remove the panel in the future. By the way I did a bench test and the LED do not get hot after 10mins in the plastic panels. my2cents
Here's an update. The LEDs IMO are bright, so I needed to control them if need be. The switch is independent of the hatch bulb but it's only powered if the hatch bulb power is used. The switch is in a position that has a round opening in the metal hatch so the switch fits between the plastic cover. I did add the two outer edge corner LEDs for ground lighting. They are hard to aim so I can only hope for the best.
I added the final pics. The camera would not pick up the ground lighting. I am very happy with the results. The hatch and the ground have much more lighting than stock. The only change I would do is to add a LED power lit switch next time. It's not a problem for me but I know where the switch is. Most people will never see it, blends in at night. It's not a problem but a consideration for next time. Thanks.
Very cool, but what do you think about putting those LEDs on the other end of the car? Specifically, where those pseudo LED looking chrome bumps are above the projector headlight? But those LEDs look pretty large. What are those? Quarter inch holes you have drilled to mount the LEDs? SCH-I535
3/16" for the hole. I only needed the LED lens to mount behind it. The actual LED is much bigger from behind, see pic with penny. I really don't like the front LED look. I think it's being over done by all the car makers, IMHO.
These connectors you used were Molex connectors? Were they 4 pin Molex or the Floppy drive type connectors?
In that pic of the "Quick Connect" above I used the HDD mother board LED wired connector. You can see the black side of the connector is labeled HDD. It's part of the wires that connect to the front panel for blinking lights on an old desk top PC case. thx. FYI - Here is a great video on how to pass the wire from the hatch to car in the rubber grommet that is done during a camera install.
