How do you remove the hoses from the inverter coolant pump?

Photo?

Bob Wilson

 

You won't be able to do it with your fingers. You will need to use a pliers of some sort. A regular pliers will work but a water pump pliers (aka channel lock) is my preferred tool. Squeeze the tabs together and slide the clamp down toward the middle of the hose until it is completely off the nipple the hose is attached to. Then you will have to break the seal that the hose has on the nipple. I typically do this by turning the hose cw/ccw (alternating) and pulling the hose away from the nipple. They won't come off easily because they have been "heat" sealed for many years. All clamps and hoses are removed the same way and can be reused.

 

I've changed the inverter coolant pump on 2G but not Classic.

Would it help to remove the bolts holding the pump down first? The idea is that maybe if you can lift the pump up you will have better access to the hose clamps...

Alternatively, you may need to remove the front bumper cover and headlight to gain better access to the pump.

 

Sounds like you've done everything possible to gain access to the pump, so now you might need to purchase a tool that will allow you to squeeze the hose clamp ends together in order to remove the clamps.

 

I usually find that once it pops loose and will twist on the nipple at all (that's the hard part), getting it the rest of the way off isn't nearly as difficult. After going through all that, before I reattach hoses, I'll take just the tiniest dab of silicone brake/dielectric grease on a fingertip and smear an invisibly thin layer onto the nipple. It's amazing how much easier that will make removing the hose next time (if there's a next time).

-Chap

 

kfl,
Stick with it. You can get to them. Keep looking for a way. If someone else can do it, you can too.

PS: There is no special tool. The only tool you can use besides pliers is maybe a small c clamp.

 

A pair of needle nose with a 90degree angle take the 2 bolts loose that hold pump in place then you can move it a little to get a better position on the clamp.

 

Once you get the clamp loosened and parked away from the joint, take a broad bladed screw driver tip, place against the end edge of the hose and push hard, while pulling moderately on the hose. Move the screw driver tip around to another point on the edge and repeat. You should be able to get the blade to about 180 degrees of the circumference, and all this concerted pushing/pulling should break it loose. Just persist.

 

I just replaced my inverter pump 6 months back, Also get some fish tank air hose from pet store for the air bleeding process it is clear see thru you can see the air bubbles and the flow.To get all the air out is difficult and time consuming but it will work out. jim

 

Sorry I don't ,Also medical tubing for air machines and personal vaporizers work well if you can take the bleeder screws out and take one with you to pet store you can check fit on hose. jim

 

I unbolt the pump from the frame by removing the two 10mm bolts on the mounting bracket. Then swing the pump around until you can get 45 or 90 degree large needle nose pliers (harbor freight ones are good enough) onto the clamp "ears". Squeeze the clamps and slide them down the hose. You need to twist the hose to break them free, they can be seized onto the pump.

Tip, you can twist/yank the OLD pump out of the rubber mount on the bracket. You may need to bend the metal tabs that hold the rubber in place. Since you are replacing it all it's easier to yank it out by destroying it than remove the bolts sometimes. Once the pump is out of the way you can remove the bracket and get ready to install the new one, but install the hoses onto the pump then bolt the new mount to the frame. Don't forget the electric connection.

 

Good morning all. Any updates from OP would be nice. So many never post how it went.Did everything work out need help bleeding out air from pump system. jim