BACK UP CAMERA FOR 2012 PRIUS two TOUCH SCREEN- NON NAV

Thanks. I'm thinking the regulator is the way I want to go. I'm not an EE, so I was looking for some help drawing up a circuit like Willco did with the Zener Diode.

 

bendersae,
If you do a web search of "LD1117V33 datasheet" , you'll find a PDF of the spec sheet. In that PDF, there is a
"schematic application" part and it has the circuit diagram. I can't figure out how to just copy that one diagram otherwise I would have attached it here. I got my parts at Digikey and below is the part numbers...
497-1492-5-ND Voltage regulator : -40 to 125C
445-8618-ND TDK .1 uf .197 spacing
445-8552-ND TDK 10 uf .197 spacing
Append #238 has a picture of the completed regulator. If you have any questions, please let me know.

 

I just ordered this camera:

Sony CCD Car Rear View Backup Camera for Toyota Prius 2012 with Guide Line | eBay

It is supposed to be a perfect fit but I am not sure if it is the 3.3 volt or the 12 volt. Is there a way to know without cutting the wires? Easiest maybe to just use it the way it comes and connect it via a mechanical or SS relay.

 

zebelkhan,
Assuming the picture matches what you actually get sent, that looks like the same camera I got from the "chen" vendor and it was a 3.3v camera. The bulge in the cable from the camera is where the 12V to 3.3 regulator should be. The only way to know for sure is to check the voltage coming out of the camera. Instead of cutting the wires, couldn't you just strip the insulation off them and measure the voltage ? If it is not 3.3V then just cover the wires back up with tape and use the camera as is.

 

Thanks. That is what I will do. I prefer a 3.3 volt to a 12 volt anyways because I think it will be easier to build and incorporate the 6 volt to 3.3 volt regulator than to go with the relay system.

I also ordered the regulator parts from Digikey! Thank you for the list and part number of components.

 

zebelkhan,
Hope you didn't break the budget ordering the parts You probably know this already, but you don't have to
remove all the insulation. If you remove the insulation from the wire between the camera and the regulator, you should see 3 wires. One is yellow, one is black, and I forgot what the other color was (maybe red ??). The yellow wire is the video signal. You don't have to remove any of the insulation on those three wires. You can put a small straight pin through the wire and connect your test leads to that. Of course if you are going to go the regulator route, you will have to cut and strip the three wires eventually.

 

Special thanks to Dan4500, our1vue and others! I have been reading this thread and using the info for a successful installation, but I am not able to reply using my Win8 PC, so I am using an older WinXP laptop to get this reply posted. I installed a TaoTronics TT-CC04 color camera on my friend’s 2012 Prius two. We ran wires to the left kick panel connector LR1. It did not work consistently with a resistor across the White and Orange terminals and using the reverse lamp for 12V. I then read about the regulator issue and found that this camera is also 3.3V, so I bought the LD1117V33C regulator and the two capacitors and built a circuit to replace the 12V-3.3V in-line regulator (which only worked down to about 8.5V input). The new regulator circuit works down to 4.5V, so I connected it to the White wire and disconnected from the reverse lamp 12V. Only three wires are needed at the LR1 connector: White (6V output), Orange (shield/ground) and Red (yellow video signal). This circuit works like the factory intent, as you guys have said! My friend is happy!

Well, almost happy – the picture displays in BLACK AND WHITE. We could not find any setting on the display to choose color vs. b/w and cannot figure out why this is happening. I tested the camera originally by connecting it to a rearview mirror display and to a TV set and it showed color on both of these. Has anyone come across this before or have a clue to pursue? What camera will show in color? The camera info says it is only NTSC.

Thanks!

 

Maybe video signal wire is pinched or loose? Or, I have heard some of these cameras when operating in low light they turn to black and white to provide better detail. I will install mine in a few hours and report back.

By the way, is there a need for a heat sink for the regulator?

 

zebelkhan,
I think I asked my EE friend about a heat sink and he said that it wasn't needed given that the voltage/current was so small. I'll send him a note just to make sure (assuming Dan4500 doesn't answer back first). I'm planning on leaving my regulator "uncovered" and just wrap the electrical tape around the connectors part. The way I looked at it, the 12V to 3.3V regulator in that plastic shell that comes with the camera doesn't have a heat sink either. All it has is a little breather hole.
UPDATE: Got a note back from my EE friend and he said no heatsink was required.

So, zebelkhan, did the patient live ?

Chuck815,
I have no idea why it is displaying in B&W, especially if it is in color on other displays. Others in this thread have said where they got their cameras from. I think you are the first with a Tao Tronics camera.

 

I put clear heat shrink over the circuit and added a LED to see when the camera was on. With 3 volts drop and 110 ma, 330 mw power is pretty small, so I figured the board was enough heat sink. I will review other cameras and try to fix the b/w issue next. Thanks.

 

I have really enjoyed reading this thread and appreciate all of the hard work done by those who have pioneered a way to add a backup camera to the 2012 Prius II. It would be great if someone could assemble a procedure alomg with sources for parts that would allow amateurs like myself to do the install in the easiest manner possible. A step by step procedure and a list of proven vendors and parts would fit the bill. The camera seems to be the major part of the puzzle It would need to be inexpensive, fits like the factory unit, and have the same quality output. It also needs to be waterproof and durable. Preferribly it would have a model number and could be found for sale from at least one reliable vendor. Anyone care to give this a go?

 

Just a newbie question here but do you cut the video wire on the driver's kick panel to splice with the camera or how does one proceed with the connection? Or is everyone using a razor to expose the wire without cutting the kick panel wires and splicing the video cable on to it?

 

So I received my 12v sony camera from ebay. Since no one has done the 43ohm resistor trick, I'll probably go with that this weekend. If all goes well, only two wire should run from rear to the driver kick panel.

 

sang kang,
I've seen two ways to do it. One, strip off the insulation and solder the bare wires together. The other is to buy
some wire splice connectors. They make them for different gauge wires. They can only be used inside the car
where they won't be exposed to any water. The wire splice connectors are easy and fast. The solder method
is more durable but hard to do if you are in confined spaces or don't have much wire to work with.

 

KeinoDoggy,
I've put the parts list for a 6v-3.3v regulator in an entry and also reviewed 2 cameras that people have used and worked. Since people started doing this only a few months ago, there is no long term data on how the camera, etc
are holding up. The problem is there are many different ways to do this. There is no best way to install the
backup camera which is why there is no instructions.

 

I completed my install, and it works...sometimes...

I think something is wrong with my wires or the connectors. So I will probably redo the wiring from the camera to the kick panel. Also, I chose to place the 6v to 3v regulator at the kick panel. I think that was perhaps the wrong place because voltage drop across the wire is probably high enough for the camera not to operate. I will confirm this once I open things up again. If so, I will move the regulator near the camera.

Regarding heat sink requirement for the regulator, I held it in my hand as it was on and felt no warmth so I figured no heat sink will be required. i just warped it with electrical tape for insulation.

 

Hello,

I just installed the backup camera today.
This is the 12v snap in camera from ebay. Install went fine but I tested with 43ohm resister across the orange and white wires. It worked but then again it works without the resister. Why is that?

So I ended up wiring the black, red for the video and tapped a big teal wire for the 12v camera power off the wiper socket. The ground for the camera power, I just wrapped the wire around one of the bolt screw.

Anyone know why this works with just the video cable plugged to the kick panel?

Lastly, when I touch the 43ohm resister it was hot, really hot to the touch, this is why I chose to connect just the video on the kick panel.

 

sang kang,
I think the reason it works is because the camera is "on" when ever the car is turned on, not just when the car is in reverse. If the camera is always on, it will supply a video signal to the HU when it does its check at power on. The only down side to this is the camera is on when ever the car is on. Not sure how many hours the camera is designed to last in continuous use.

 

I install security camera and my oldest customer is 15+ years. These are the same Sony CCD 1/3, 1/4 inch ones. One have failed when it got hit by a lightning but as far as I know, these are on 24/7.