Repair report from the dealer has costs more than I can sell my car for. And it's no longer worth it for me to keep the car, so... With state registration/inspection coming up, annual insurance payment looming, and yet another month of garaging fees, I need something quick and easy by the end of the month. I was figuring that a vehicle donation to charity would be best and least time consuming. What have been your experiences with such services (what charities have you done this with in the past?), or is there another vehicle end-of-life option that I haven't considered? (I checked a recommended local vocational school, and although they take vehicle donations, needed repairs have to be under some $ amount, so not my car. ) Some possibilities: Vehicle Donation to Any Charity middleman, but 70-75% goes to any charity/church/school (you choose), - recommended by a local charity I support and know well. Charity and nonprofit organization partners | Car Donation Wizard (Advanced Remarketing Services, a middleman, but ~80% to a large list of charities, such as Habitat for Humanity, The Salvation Army, Toys for Tots, unicef, Car Talk Vehicle Donation Program, American Cancer Society, March of Dimes, etc.) Donate a Car to Charity - OneCarOneDifference.com Car Donation Program (Insurance Auto Auctions, Inc., a middleman, but goes to your choice of several large charities, such as the National Kidney Foundation/Kidney Cars, Society of St. Vincent de Paul, American Heart Association, etc.) Donate a car to Volunteers of America. Our local programs help millions direct with Volunteers of America Car Donation - Donate Car to Kars4Kids direct with Joy for Our Youth I can't stand the catchy commercials, so likely a no. There are other possibilities listed at NYCWasteLess: Car Donation Products and Services anyone I missed? For those following: Prius Diagnostic Trouble Codes P3006 P3013 P2016 C1521 yep, hybrid battery needs replacing. 2001 Prius. < 70,000 miles, single owner. MPG had been going down, and the gasoline engine had been running more. Then one day last fall BAM! all warning lights on, engine on, no battery assist... Car still runs, but complains and doesn't have the power you're used to. I had a buyer where I'd still make some money on the sale if it was just the hybrid battery that needed replacing (and he wasn't scared by that)... But my dealer also found a pump going in the power steering unit, so that whole unit would need replacing. And a few other mechanical things as well... and with Manhattan labor rates... <sigh> it is a 12 year old car, but still, I thought I took good care of it! Feels like losing a pet! so if anyone is looking for a 1-CD player for their Classic 2001-2003 Prius, let me know asap and I'll give it a try to remove it for you! CoastalETech engine run indicator as well. 2001 Owner's manual? original Eat My Voltage window sticker? just ask!
More than likely destined for the scrap yard. Most charities (and my brother) will only accept running vehicles.
Most of the charity sites I listed stated that they'll take any condition, running or not. My 2001 is driveable, but is gasoline-engine only with plenty of warning lights. So kind of running... And yes, I know that my car is likely going to end up in a scrapyard to be parted out, rather than someone taking it on to replace the hybrid battery (and the rack&pinion steering, if you believe my dealer...)
Can you maybe post it for sale with full disclosure and ask only what you'd gain from the tax deduction? Some resourceful diy person might breathe life into it.
That's interesting. I had believed that when the traction battery was weak you'd have difficulty turning MG1 to start the ICE. Must be enough juice left in it to turn it over (at least for now).
Whoa Nellie! Scrap a 2001 with crazy low miles over one or two funky battery blocks (was that P2016 by any chance a typo for P3016? I can't match it as given) and a steering C1521? Could you say a little more about whatever "other mechanical things" you alluded to? Please check this posting regarding your C1521. If you find no better option, just unplug the steering ECU and call it a manual-steering Prius. Others have done so quite happily. It makes the steering rather heavy for low-speed maneuvers like parking, but quite pleasant on the road; some prefer the road feel. You might not have the time to delve into the battery but someone else surely will. I can't think of a reason to scrap it unless there's a real show-stopper among your "other mechanical things". -Chap
I would like the owner's manual if you want to part with it. Does $20 plus shipping sound reasonable?
Seriously... please describe the "other mechanical things." And at the very least, if you're still thinking to donate, please have another conversation with the vocational school. The dealer repair quote might exceed their limit, but it won't cost the school that to repair it. Not only will the school be able to troubleshoot the battery and steering at the component level, unlike the dealer who can only quote replacement of assemblies, but for the school that's ideal for a training opportunity. At the end they'll have a sweet low-miles classic to use in fundraising or whatever. -Chap
The buyer I had required a dealer's multi-point inspection. That only brought up a dirty engine air filter, and dry drive belts. I managed to get the codes from the service writer that all cover the battery. (yes, there was a typo above) P3006 - Battery SOC are uneven P3013 & P3016 - Battery block malfunction C1521 - Motor circuit malfunction Unfortunately, the service writer was obviously not a Prius person, and was trying to translate what his Prius tech was telling him. He thought that "drive belts" meant that a timing belt needed replacement (Prius has a timing chain). The service writer also said that there was a bad pump in the rack&pinion steering unit that was going and would need replacement (which requires replacing the entire unit, plus alignment fees). (Since the Prius doesn't have a pump for the steering, and we have no codes, I don't know how much I believe that the steering is really going...) Anyways, the amount that we'd have to pay for repairs (Manhattan labor rates are crazy!), meant it was more than we'd net for the sale, and the stuff the service writer was saying scared off the buyer.
From a tax accountant with lots of Vehicle Donation experience... To be honest, the donation will not be very beneficial to either you or the organization. For donations, you can only deduct the fair market value in current condition. So for you, the deduction may only be $1500 (I'm just guessing here), of which you would get 20-50% for a net tax reduction (depending on your tax rate. You must have a decent amount of itemized deductions for a benefit) . Another words, you basically would get $300 - $750 for the car. For the organization, the vehicle is likely one that they are not experienced with and would not be one that they would work on. If by chance they did, the costs to turn it would eat up probably 75% of the donation, leaving them with only $300-750 for their fund. The best option in my opinion... sell it as is for say $1500 (again just guessing). Keep $750 for yourself... and donate $750 to the organization of your choice and everyone wins. If you were closer to SoCal, I'd suggest you donate it to my 501c3 organization... but you are kinda far away...
To clarify a bit, it may not even be traditional "fair market value", the value is determined by how much the charity sells it for. From Wheels for wishes website: 2013 Car Donation Tax Deduction Answers - IRS Car Donation FAQ which fits my memory of how the IRS does it.
WHOAH,before you give this thing away ,there are people who will buy it. What are you asking for it? I would be willing to come and get it if we can get together on a price.. You can message me if you like..
Here's a gen 2 or gen 3 Prius that for the most part the gas engine has been removed (except the short block) so it has in effect has been converted to an all electic car. If it is possible I'd like to convert my gen 1 Prius the same way (except I would use lithium batteries instead) as an alternative to when the time comes to scrapping it.
