It's taken nearly a year but I think I have at last cracked it! I can now quite easily achieve <3.9l/100km. 1.The trick is to drive it like a car not a milk float. 2. For the Prius to achieve best economy the electric motor has to assist the petrol motor. This won't happen if you try and drive it with electric motor only as much as possible. This will result in a constant low battery level meaning the petrol engine has to work harder on acceleration and cruising cause its doing it alone. 3. The answer is simply to ensure you keep a battery level of around 75% and see that most of the charge comes from breaking and coasting down hill. It may sound counter initiative but try it and see the results. Forget economy mode and just drive it. B (engine braking) is only for steep descents where the gradient over powers the regenerative portion of the braking resulting in excessive brake pad heating. Have fun with it! (That should have been the add campaign slogan)
While I had no idea what a milk float is, it sounded like a boat of some sort. Milk float - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia It was a horse drawn cart.
Prius NZ, Congratulations, it sounds like you finally 'got it.' It's usually best to just let the controll algoriths handle ICE/electric power relationships. That said, there are simple driver specific items that will assure high MPG-L/Km numbers without being burdensome, such as: * Run tire/tyre pressures up to max sidewall values keeping the front/rear differential shown on the door frame sticker * Keep extra weight from 'junk in the trunk' out of the car. * Ensure 12V battery is up to snuff * Use basic 'driving without brakes' tactics
Thanks for this... my mind went straight to a parade float. Same results I guess semantically, but totally different beasts.
I must admit that it could have been easier if they had told me it in the manual. I found it rather ambiguous when it came to drive style for best economy. Also you will notice better acceleration with lower RPM of the petrol motor with more bars on the battery indicator. You do need to keep the display in Eco Score and this is also useful for making sure you brake effectively with regards energy recovery.
Pffff how are you getting those numbers..... Winter tires and low temps: around 6l/100km, and now somewhat higher temperatures (15 degr.C) and summer tires: if I try I get 5 l/100km..... Maybe I have to try harder....
What is your average journey distance? Trips under a few km are hard to see good averages due to engine warm up tho this can be minimised if you are moving at the time. The car is designed not to over rev the engine until it's warm and it will rely more on the electric motor. Another good reason to keep good battery levels at the end of the last journey.
My commute to work is only 15 km one way. The first km is in town : 30 km/h and then highway ~10km (100 km/h (real speed: 110 on display) on ACC) and after that ~4 km 80 km/h road with a couple of traffic lights. My longest trip in winter conditions was ~75 km. 95% highway (100 km/h on ACC) and some 60 km/h roads. I managed to get 5 l/100km. Other short trips around that time averaged @ 6l/100km
We are in a Prius C and you are in the fullsize Prius. Our city mileage is better than yours. That's how. I can get 5l/100km without even trying now that the weather is warm. I usually get 4.28 l/100km on my way to work (50km one way) when I am hauling and in a hurry. When I have time I can get 3.86 on most days. I did the conversions for you...
^ I agree: This one has no downside. Just use your momentum, don't squander it. Anytime you have to lean on the brakes is a time you've lost. But it's a friendly game. You can't always win; when you've gotta stop you've gotta stop. But leaving a buffer, looking ahead, driving strategically, all improve the odds.
When I just had the car, I had an empty 12V battery twice. (an OBD2 device emptied it overnight) Could it be that the battery is not healthy anymore and is charged continuously, with low FE as a result? Is there a way to check the health without taking it out?
I had that chinese OBD2 diagnostic tool thing in the car for 2 nights, both nights the 12V was empty. I have a WiFi OBD2 dongle in the car now, and when I get in the car I see the LED blinking, before "ready". It looks like there's still 12V on the OBD2 port when the car shuts down.
Some Prius with on-screen controls will show the 12 volt battery voltage, not applicable for me. What does work: Hook up a digital voltmeter, at the under the hood jumpstart terminal is fine. A battery that hasn't just been charged should read around 12.6 Volt or higher, if it's at "100%". If you do the test in extreme cold I believe the readings will be a bit lower. If you get a reading around 12.3~12.5 your battery's still serviceable, but nearing replacement time.
OK, thanks. I'll hook up the Fluke. If it has to be replaced there are some threads about replacement batteries.
Are you driving a Prius or a Prius C? Yesterday I went to the airport (15km) similar mixture of street and motorway as your work trip. Having a high level of charge in the battery meant good motorway acceleration and economy improving to 4.2l/100km. A couple of kms around to the airport saw final journey 3.8l/km. We had a new 2012 Mercedes B class for a while and with all its acclaimed Eco features and its 1700cc engine the best it could manage for that journey was 11.5l/100km so you are still streaks ahead of the field.
Mmmm....my previous car, Mercedes E270 cdi, did even better than the B! I have a Prius Gen3.....and my mom, who visited my sister in Nelson a couple of months ago, even got me a All Blacks car window flag!
