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Rearview Camera

Discussion in 'Prius c Audio and Electronics' started by mattebury, Jun 2, 2012.

  1. col127

    col127 Member

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    So was it just plug and play for the head unit? Like you just plugged those white clips into the right socket? (Which one is that)? Thanks :) Might get this... Looks a lot more straightforward now...
     
  2. mattebury

    mattebury Junior Member

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    Cool, sounds like this one's the one for me too. You'll have to let us know how you mounted the camera to the hatch.
     
  3. jwestfah

    jwestfah Junior Member

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    Okay, getting the wires back to the hatch was harder than I thought it would be. Definitely harder than hooking up the head unit, at least with this kit. I just stuffed the wire into the hatch for now and I'll wrap it up tomorrow.

    The head unit was literally plug and play. You unplug connector G79, plug the thing you unplugged into the kit harness, and plug the other part of the kit harness back into G79.

    You do have to connect power and ground from the harness to power and ground from the camera. I had to strip one side, the other was pre-stripped. Then you just twist the wires together. The kit included two red butt connectors, which look like a small piece of shrink tubing with some metal inside. I wasn't sure exactly how you're supposed to use these, I just stuffed the twisted wires into one end, then taped it all up with electrical tape. The kit includes a bunch of zip ties, which I used to secure the video cable and power/ground wires.

    I plan to drill out a hole in the "normal" spot for a backup camera, just to the left of the license plate light. The kit includes a drill bit for this. I'll try to remember to take a few pics.
     
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  4. jwestfah

    jwestfah Junior Member

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    I finished this up the other night. Here's the finished job:

    image.jpg

    You have to take the piece above the license plate off to install the camera. There are 5 nuts and a plastic thing, it comes off pretty easily:

    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    Then you need to drill a hole in the hatch to run the camera cable through, and a hole in the plastic piece to mount the camera:

    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    Then you just attach the camera, secure the cables, and put it all back together. It works great:

    image.jpg

    I am somewhat concerned about the hole I drilled in the hatch. I ordered some rubber grommets, hopefully it will fit well in that hole.
     
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  5. RicardoX

    RicardoX Junior Member

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    Nice, already ordered mine. Does the camera have any adjustments to align guide lines
    with bumper
     
  6. Optical Illusions

    Optical Illusions Junior Member

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    The plastic piece above the license plate. Are they clip on type screws and need to be yank off or you have to unscrew it from the trunk?

    Let me know the result of the rubber grommet that you ordered.

    Thank you for the pictures and guide. I'm leaning toward to order this camera for my C4.
     
  7. jwestfah

    jwestfah Junior Member

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    There's 5 10mm nuts you need to unscrew, and a plastic thing you need to squeeze. I used needle nose pliers for that. Here's a couple of the nuts:

    image.jpg
     
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  8. jwestfah

    jwestfah Junior Member

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    You can physically turn the camera left or right a little if you think it's off. Maybe I just got lucky, but the guide lines seem to extend right into the middle of parking spots at work.
     
  9. docsnavely

    docsnavely Insert Custom Title Here

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    Thanks to this thread, I ordered the same PnP camera kit from eBay. For $85, I figured what the hell. I also ordered some panel removal tools from amazon to safely pull everything apart with. I hope my instal goes as smoothly. I'm a bit worried about drilling into the actual hatch, but I guess as long as I use some silicone caulking or a tight grommet I should be fine.
     
  10. Dogwood2

    Dogwood2 Member

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    Any recommendation for a shop in the Los Angeles area that has experience with the backup camera installation? I'm not sure I trust myself to do a clean job of it.
     
  11. gbouten

    gbouten Junior Member

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  12. gbouten

    gbouten Junior Member

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    I got the kit in yesterday. Looks like it's a snap to install.
     
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  13. SwhitePC

    SwhitePC Active Member

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    thank you for the wiring info's

    I just finished my cheapo backup camera install using a license plate camera, rf receivers/transmitter, and a 4inch separate display (maybe if one day I get a good in dash screen I'll change it over to in dash)


    was easier than I thought... =D

    all in all only cost me 85$ in all and some time.
     
  14. SwhitePC

    SwhitePC Active Member

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  15. SwhitePC

    SwhitePC Active Member

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    Used a gerber to take off the plastic nails from reardoor panel (seemed it has a tool on it that fit that job very easily), and popped out a license plate light and ran the plate camera into it, then re popped it back in. The light seemed to be back in snugly even with a wire in there. Since I was reading a lot of these DIY's, I guess I got lazy and didn't want to run or search for the reverse signal power, so I just connected the power (red) to yellow cable for power & ground(black) to some ground wires connected to car. Electrical taped the extra wires and the RF transmitter to the door and closed the door panel for a nice flush same old looking door panel.

    Up front as you can see I just bought a 4inch screen ($25) and used it, I was in between using a rearview mirror screen (but I kept reading some reviews where the mirror had too much glare), or buying a nice in dash with a screen (but I'm sort of on a budget and It's too mind boggling for someone like me who doesn't really work with cars to try & take apart a new car). I decided to put the screen on left side as in the picture and easily just ran the cable down and sorta hidden belong the door seam. Again I didn't want to take apart the whole front of the car or look for the reverse signal, so I just took off the driver side door panel and tapped into the same yellow wire for power and black&white ground wire for grounding. Put everything back together and hid away the RF receiver near the hood pop switch, and everything looks clean and out of sight.

    Everything works (screen is always on when car starts) and the screen is sort of a distraction when I first drove it around after installing it, since I seem to be amazed at seeing what's directly behind me for now.
     
  16. SwhitePC

    SwhitePC Active Member

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    everything is working fine so far these past few days, other than

    the video signal got lost once or twice here and there for a split second as I was driving (which I'm assuming could be some kind of interference)

    I'll probably put car through a machine washer in a few weeks or so or whenever car gets dirty enough to see how it holds up against water
     
  17. gbouten

    gbouten Junior Member

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  18. docsnavely

    docsnavely Insert Custom Title Here

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    I finally got all the parts in for my camera install. Here's my list of purchases and a summary of what I did for the install.

    Shopping and tool list:

    Camera: Toyota Factory Integrated Back Up Camera System | eBay (Seller frequently has more than one of the same cameral available)
    Wire harness connectors: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1924
    (Looked locally and no auto parts stores or radio shack had these. The car stereo guy in my area had them but refused to sell any to me)
    Moulding removal tools: 5 pc. No-Scratch Tools for Removing Fastener & Molding : Amazon.com : Automotive
    (Work great with no bending)
    Blue painters tape
    Wire coat hangar
    Electrical tape
    3/4" boring drill bit
    7/32" drill bit
    Wire snips
    Needle nose pliers
    Silicone putty/caulking

    I first removed all the trim pieces as per the write up generously done by Mik1 (http://priuschat.com/attachments/back-up-camra-installation-pdf.40117/)

    I then took the power and ground cables from the camera, crimped the harness connectors onto them and placed them in conector G79 after releasing the securing clip on the bottom of the harness with a straightened paper clip. Power went to pin #7 and ground went to pin #15 (your emergency brake is wired into pin #6 for reference). There is adequate power supplied from the head unit to this camera so you don't have to worry about tapping any other power source. After the wires were in the harness, I snapped the securing clip for the harness back into place.

    I tested the camera to make sure it worked and then got to the task of routing my wire. I did the same as most in this thread and ran the cable under the carpet under my pedals and down into the driver's side door frames. The only complication I had that has not been addressed is that to get the cable from the rear driver's side door to the back, you need to take the protective foot cover off the rear driver's side passenger seat (the plastic barrier to prevent back seat riders from kicking the batteries or battery fan). This was a simple push of 4 snap buttons so they popped out and the cover pulls right off.

    When I got to routing the cable though the rubber arm that goes from the car to the hatch, it wasn't as difficult as everyone made it out to be. Just take the rubber arm off the hatch and the car itself and gently finagle the cable through it. When it comes time to fish the wire down to the license plate area from the rubber arm, a straightened coat hangar works like a charm.

    All I did from here was remove the plastic piece from outside the hatch that holds the latch and future camera. I drilled a hole in the actual metal hatch with my 7/32" drill bit just left of the left side license plate light to make the wire hole for the camera. I then drilled a hole in the plastic latch piece with my 3/4" boring bit for the camera. I went nice and slow to make sure I didn't ruin the plastic piece. The camera snapped snugly into place with no fuss. I ran the wires inside the hatch and sealed the inside of the hatch where the camera wire penetrates with silicone caulking. I then zip tied all the excess and secured it in the hatch so it doesn't rattle around.

    A nice thing about this camera is that on the terminal end where the camera is, you can set it up so where you can remove the guide lines and you can reverse the mirroring the camera performs. These settings can be switched by just closing the circuit of the two sets of bare wires that are labeled with each setting you wish to turn on or off.

    All in all this project took just over 3.5 hours to do from start to finish. Very easy, and just over $100 for all the parts and tools I didn't have. I am very very pleased with the results. Much better than $600 for the dealer installed camera!

    IMG_0431.jpg IMG_0433.jpg IMG_0436.jpg IMG_0437.jpg IMG_0438.jpg
     
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  19. col127

    col127 Member

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    Hey! I bought the same kit from camera-source. Did you end up buying the rubber grommets? What was the intention for that? Is it necessary? How hard is it to drill into the car? Would a regular house hold drill work?