Complete stereo overhaul with Navi and custom subwoofer enclosure

I wanted to share the results of my stereo upgrade project after learning much of what was needed from the forum and the documents created here.

I have to start off by saying that this project couldn't have been done so well if it wasn't for John at Modern Kustom Classics (MKC in Concord, NC 704-787-6523 ), an excellent installer and fabricator. He did most of the installation and sound tuning and 100% of the subwoofer enclosure. The subwoofer sounds amazing. While John was building the box I had the JL sub in a Atrend 10SQL .75 cu ft. and it sounded good. Honestly, I was expecting less performance out of the custom box, but it actually sounds much better, way cool!

For the headunit I went with the Toyota panel assembly part# 55405-47080 with Metra side trim 95-8202 kit which works great. with either side trim kit you will still have to grind the metal dimples off of the factory bracket. I used the Metra 70-1761 Wiring Harness and Metra Axxess ASWC Steering Wheel Control Interface. I didn't need a relay to override the parking brake circuit to use the dvd player and Nav. on this Kenwood unit while driving. The wire is just grounded to the metal frame.

The interior except for the roof was done with Dynamat, except from the two front seats forward, there I used Stinger Roadkill carpet pad. I also used Dynamat under the factory hoodliner. This resulted in 30-40% less road noise, significant enough for my father who drives a Lexus to comment on how quiet the cabin is. Here's a funny story. When I got done all the matting I closed all the doors, but couldn't get the final door to close as easily as before. I messed around with the door panel, the plastic kick panel and the door sill trim thinking that something was bulging and causing a tighter fit. It wasn't until I openned the truck to relieve the positive pressure and then closed the driver door, did I realize what was going on. I haven't experienced that since then, but I am usually only openning and closing one door at a time.

I figure it is easier to list the parts used:
-Kenwood DNX-7190HD in dash unit
-Kenwood CMOS-210 Back Up Camera
-Toyota panel assembly part# 55405-47080
-Metra side trim 95-8202 kit
-Metra 70-1761 Wiring Harness
-Metra Axxess ASWC Steering Wheel Control Interface
-Kenwood KCA-iP202 iPod Adapter (iPod control using the touch screen is awesome)
-JL Audio XD500/3 amp for Subwoofer (only the subwoofer output is being used - 300W @ 2ohms)
-I choose this because it fits so nicely under either seat behind the air vent but before the hump
-JL Audio 10W3V3-2ohm 10" Subwoofer
-Alpine SPX-17REF 2-way component speakers 6.5" mid and 1" tweet -front
-Alpine SPR-60 6.5" -rear doors
-JL Audio XD400/4 amp - 60-75W @ 4ohms - amp for door speakers
-Custom all fiberglass with mdf bottom subwoofer box. -approx. .62 cu. ft. no polyfill.
-2x Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" -72 sq. ft. total

If I were to do it again I would choose the cost savings of using only the JL Audio XD500/3 amp for the front component speakers and sub and not change out the rear door speakers, but just power them off of the head unit. Sitting in the front seats the rear door speakers don't add to the sound. I also would use Hertz Dieci DSK 165.3 components because the sound quality is comparable to the now discontinued Alpine Reference components. The Alpines I used are slightly better but the Hertz Dieci are a great value ..I have had excellent experience using them in a Toyota Corolla.





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Here are some more pictures taken about midway through the project.

 

yeah always striving for perfection lol. The Kenwood DNX7190HD only has one USB input, so I needed a way to unplug the iPod Adapter cable and plug in a USB drive to ocassionally play movies. Movie watching is great in low light like at night, and of course the sound is very nice. FYI 2 channel audio is the way to go with movies. If the unit had a second USB input it would have been nice to recess mount it in that center console blank.

 

Toyotapartszone.com it's 59.89 + shipping. Be prepared for it to take up to 2 weeks if you are on the east coast.

 

John at Modern Kustom Classics in Concord, NC 704-787-6523 sent pictures he took throughout the subwoofer box building process.

 

As long as you are comfortable taking off the door panels, interior trim and paneling you will be fine. I would recommend going to Harbor Freight or somewhere else and pickup a set of plastic pry bars for removing trim. Dynamat is easy to cut with a razor blade, and you can punch holes through it easily. A little roller will be helpful in the corners. Also you can cut little strips of it to secure any lose wiring you find along the way that might rattle otherwise.

DROID RAZR HD ? 2

 

Yeah JL Audio sells one designed for the speaker it's a black mesh type. In my opinion it won't look as nice as it does without, but it will provide good protection.
DROID RAZR HD ? 2

 

Dynamat added 40 lbs. Also the sub and two amps were another 40 lbs.

DROID RAZR HD ? 2

 

I put it under the carpet from the front seats going forward until the carpet ends under the dash. I didn't use dynamat where I used the Roadkill, imo it works good by itself. It's thick so in places like where there is a styrofoam form under the pedals or in the corners where the plastic kick panels are, I cut away the Roadkill material.

DROID RAZR HD ? 2