I'm going to get 16" wheels (either the Drag DR-34 or DR-9). Unfortunately the Michelan Energy Saver A/S does not come in 205/55/16 so have to get something else. I'd probably get the Ecopia EP422 but it has been on backorder forever and I'm starting to lose my patience. I really want to at least maintain MPG and not lose any MPG. It would be even better if I could increase MPG. I've been considering the Ecowing KH30 but it seems mostly unknown on Prius Chat. The 85,000 mi Avid Ascend is a great value but I'm guessing I'd lose some mileage since they aren't LRR tires. M wife really doesn't want to lose mileage. I'm wondering what people's thoughts are on the LRR tires available at 205/55/16. I've probably missed some but I'm going to go through Discount Tire Direct since that's the place that sells the wheels I want. Bridgestone Ecopia EP422, $114 (~.00175/mi) P205/55R16 89H NIS B 65,000 480AA H Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max, $124 (~.0019/mi) P205/55R-16 89H VSB 65,000 580AA H Kumho ecowing KH30, $107 (~.00178/mi) 205/55R16 91V BW 60,000 440AA V Yokohama AVID Ascend, $138 (~.00163/mi) P205/55R16 89T BW 85,000 800AB TR Yokohama AVID Ascend, $139 (~.00185/mi) 205/55R16 91H BW 75,000 740AA HR
I think the Fuel Max and Michelin Defender are your best values right now. The Defender is inexpensive and should last a long time so even if the mpg is not as good as the Energy Saver A/S or EP422, the higher tread wear rating should help even things out. The Ascend is LRR rated but without rebates, it is way to expensive in this size so I wouldn't consider it over the Defender or Fuel Max.
I didn't realize the Defender was a LRR tire. Right now (until July 28) Discount Tire Direct has a $70 pre-paid Visa with any set of 4 Michelin tires. More to think about I guess. When I priced everything out, I didn't realize all the expenses involved. It isn't cheap but I'm not doing this to save money. 4 Defenders = $508-$70 for the deal = $438 4 Michelin replacement certificates = $64 4 wheels = $440 1 wheel install kit (special lugs) = $45 4 TPMS with free mounting/balancing = $276 web rebate = -50 free shipping $1213 total Hopefully I can sell my OEM wheels and tires (< 5000 miles) for $4o0. I didn't think about the TPMS. I assume I'm going to have to get them programmed? The dealer should be able to do it right?
I assume the Defender will not get as good MPG just based on its tread life and wear rating. 205/55R16 91T BSW, $127 or $110 during the current rebate (~.00142/mi or ~.00122/mi) 90,000 820AB TR If it really does last 90K, then its value is insanely good, better than all the others I listed, with or without the rebate. I just wonder what the MPG hit will be like. Maybe I shouldn't care about the treadlife as much since I average about 1 tire replacement a year due to all the garbage on the roads out here (especially I95). The 85K Avid Ascend is actually not that bad of a value.
Any updates on what you decided to purchase? I'm thinking of going 16s as well and weighing out the tire options.
I just ordered the Michelin Primacy MXM4 in 205/55/16. I know it isnt as good as the A/S, but hopefully these are decent.
I've actually only driven my PiP for ~130 miles with the stock wheels/tires, so I wont have much to compare to.
I'm saving up for the Drag DR 9 17 x 7 w/ 215/45R17 tires 18.4 lbs. I talked with a sales rep at discount tires and he has a set on his car and loves them. The 215/45R17 is closer in size to the factoy OEM setup than the 205/55R16. I'm concerned about the MPG hit, but want the look of a 17 vs. 16 wheel. He assured me that a LLR tire would make the loss in MPG less than 2 MPG. Any thoughts?
He is wrong. Even with a good LRR tire the hit is more like 3-4mpg and even higher if you compare a typical LRR 215/45/17 to a super efficient 15" tire like the Energy Saver A/S. I lose about 6-8mpg in that situation. The 205/55/16 (24.9") is in theory closer to the OE 195/65/15 (25") diameter than the 215/45/17 (24.7") is. If you want to minimize the mpg hit then stick with a 16 wheel and a very fuel efficient tire like the Ecopia EP422. I recently had a set of heavy 17" wheels on my car and with the 205/50/17 Ecopia EP422 I was still able to average 47-52mpg indicated depending on how much rain we got and how fast I drove. In summer this would easily be 54-57mpg. A lighter wheel with those tires would be even better. In contrast, however, I could do 62-68mpg with a 195/65/15 Energy Saver A/S in summer weather.
Thanks F8L. I thought a 2 MPG loss was optimistic at best. I didn't consider the 205/50R17 tire size. I'll check it out. I really want the best of both worlds, 17 inch look & 15 inch MPG. I'm lowering my silver gen III after Christmas. H&R springs will be here this week. I'll need to save up for the wheel and tire package. I'll be ready by spring and just want to be sure I'll get 45 to 50 mpg. I'm getting 50 to 55 mpg now. It sounds like I'm on the right path as long as I go with a quality LLR tire. Thanks again! Merry Christmas!
My pleasure. Time your purchase with the $100 Discount Tire rebate and the $70 rebate for Michelin or Bridgestone tires for max benefit. They do the $100 rebate a couple times of year. Also stick with a high offset wheel. The wider the wheel the less mpg. The more the wheel sticks out of the wheel well the less mpg. My advice is no more than a 7" wide wheel and keep the offset at 42mm or higher if possible. The two most fuel efficient 17" tires I can think of are the EP422 and the Continental PureContact.
I'm starting to like the idea of getting 16s. I think if it went with a 17" wheel, I may not make it to work on all EV due to the hit on MPG. Can't decided between the Ecopia P422 or the Continental PureContact though.
If you want max mpg and comfort then get the EP422. If you want more performance, crazy good wet traction and don't mind a rougher ride then get the PureContact.
Trying to figure cost per mile for tires is a good idea. But, one problem with evaluating tire cost based on a mileage guarantee is that the length of the mileage guarantee is as much a business decision by the tire company as it is the result of testing or other form of reality. You would be better off using the wear rating number for a relative cost per mile. At least the wear rating is based on testing even if it is only done by the tire manufacturer. The wear rating number has been finagled much less by the business folk.
